82Yota Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Also, realistically its 1/16" gap in diameter. You could just go with bigger hardware which might not be a bad idea anyways if you get some decent and proper stainless bolts and stainless nylock nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Yeah, I went ahead and ordered those....we'll see, and if not then there should be a bit of room on the bracket to use a slightly larger bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Stainless? The stainless that I know has no real strength. A 1/2" or 5/8" Grade 5 bolt will last much much much longer before it rusts solid than a small one, and with 'Never Seize' you'll be fine. IMHO And I've never used anything on my shock bolts anyway. The Sub does not see much salt. But I suggest you do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Many vehicles have problem rust spots. And mine is certainly the sheet metal on the rearward half. Suspension bolts have always been fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 You can buy grade 8 stainless hardware... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 1 hour ago, 82Yota said: You can buy grade 8 stainless hardware... Kewl! Did a little research on Mr. G. (Google). I am now more informed! Thanks for the heads up. Yup, strong stainless bolts seem to exist. They may be very pricey and may be brittle at cold temperatures (but don't always believe what you read in a forum)! Rumour has it ARP sells them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e36m3 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 It's all cool that they sell stainless steel bolts, but using dissimilar metals together is not a great idea . the mounts or whatever it touches will become like a sacrificial anode and rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 I dont think the rust on the mild steel would be any different than if you were using nickle or zinc plated hardware. I could be wrong, who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 For the most part we are over analyzing it. Galling, mallability (sp), corrosion, anodes, etc are all really important in aircraft, submarines, spacecraft, and yes automotive applications with aluminum Land Rovers and steel hinges and frames, and many engines these days with dissimilar metals and also differing thermal expansion and contraction rates in particular. And torque-to-yield bolts type of stuff. For my old Sub, especially the shock bolts, none of this matters, except for not re-using leaf spring-to-axle U-bolts. I like these forums, we learn lots! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 learning is good....so what's the big deal about not reusing axle u-bolts, yet we can re-use other critical fasteners? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 The U-bolts are designed to yield in some way, thread deformation or something or other, and I've seen stated many times should not be re-used. For the highway anyway. For an unlicensed truck used on a farm, likely not so critical! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 I personally never re-use ubolts because theyre always such a **** to get them off so now i dont even bother trying and use mr makita and a hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 49 minutes ago, 82Yota said: I personally never re-use ubolts because theyre always such a **** to get them off so now i dont even bother trying and use mr makita and a hammer. Sooooooooooo true. I use the 4" or 5" grinder (w/cutting wheel) and pop goes the weasel! The fun part is when it cuts through and the tension releases, the axle needs to be supported or stand clear! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 The nuts on a U-bolt are tall (double normal height) with fine thread, allowing lots of engagement with the bolt, and when rusted, a real PITA to take off manually. Just cut them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 1 hour ago, sar4x4 said: The nuts on a U-bolt are tall (double normal height) with fine thread, allowing lots of engagement with the bolt, and when rusted, a real PITA to take off manually. Just cut them! Agreed. I think the only real problem that ive ever had was on the toyora cone washers. They are bastards kg if youve never done them. I have it down to a science now haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 34 minutes ago, 82Yota said: I think the only real problem that ive ever had was on the toyora cone washers. They are bastards kg if youve never done them. The GM 10-Bolt front axle (similar to a Dana 44) also had cone washers. One of the biggest PITA I've ever come across. As you indicate, once you have the knack to get them out, good, but if you don't............... I don't remember off-hand if my Dana 60 has them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Makes you want to kick a puppy they are so frustrating the first time haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 I take that statement in the tone it was meant and laughed heartily. Please everyone, don't think I'd kick an animal! (Except a cow when they are stepping on your foot........ And I couldn't kick it hard enough to hurt it!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 4 hours ago, sar4x4 said: The U-bolts are designed to yield in some way, thread deformation or something or other, and I've seen stated many times should not be re-used. For the highway anyway. For an unlicensed truck used on a farm, likely not so critical! ^^ Agreed. I treat a U-bolt like a "torque to yield" bolt. I'd never rebuild an engine with old bolts and see U-bolts as being the same. They undergo extreme stress especially off road when you drag them over obstacles. Well, that & the fact that they always seem to sheer at the nut when trying to remove them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Just ordered a new drivers side hub/wheel bearing for the Jeep. I had to replace the passenger side for safety in October, so not really surprised this one is gone now. $56 all in with lifetime warranty from http://www.primechoiceautoparts.ca/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 32 minutes ago, derekmac said: Just ordered a new drivers side hub/wheel bearing for the Jeep. I had to replace the passenger side for safety in October, so not really surprised this one is gone now. $56 all in with lifetime warranty from http://www.primechoiceautoparts.ca/ How in the holy hell do you give a lifetime warranty on a bearing anyways? Ive always wondered that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 45 minutes ago, 82Yota said: How in the holy hell do you give a lifetime warranty on a bearing anyways? Ive always wondered that Haha, not a clue, but it works for me!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jawritch Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Prime choice "lifetime warranty" is just a 1 time replacement. Not free bearings for life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 2 hours ago, Jawritch said: Prime choice "lifetime warranty" is just a 1 time replacement. Not free bearings for life. Then they should just sell them 2 for the price of one ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 2 minutes ago, Eastcoastcam said: Then they should just sell them 2 for the price of one ... Your ideas are intriguing to me and I wish to subscribe to your newsletter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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