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TRUXterra

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Everything posted by TRUXterra

  1. Radflo's re-built. Such a simple design. 1 set screw; remove the threaded collar ring; pull the shaft assembly out; replace 4 rubber 0-rings; set the air-oil piston depth; fill with oil and re-assemble. Total process took less than an hour per shock
  2. Swapped the OEM front coilovers under the X. Ordered a rebuilt kit for both front Radlos. 8 years & 80k kms later, the cost is less than $100 for the re-build kits ;). I have a mean Roaster stance now that the front has dropped 3"
  3. If I have to re-paint the X, it will be orange! I know the Zuk is a very SWB so I'm surprised that the sliders bolt to the body & the frame.
  4. Jay, I had a similar problem with my John Deere lawn tractor. It worked well after a carb rebuild and then started the same problems that you are experiencing. Now before all of you start saying "apples & oranges", keep in mind a carb is a carb. In my case it turns out the retention "loops" that hold the pin through the float were too loose and the pin would slide from one side to the other and sometimes fall out of the holder or preventing the float from operating on the proper axis. A very simple problem that may, or may not, be the cause of your fuel over-flow. I
  5. Did you do the reset procedure?
  6. Replaced the complete belt driven fan assembly, from mount to fan blade. It's nice to have connections; mount, pulley, tensioner & fan blade for $100 cash. It came from a 2014 Pathfinder with 16.4k kms Should have gone tis route the first time. The Dorman part that failed will be covered by warranty so I can return it for a cash refund (~$75).
  7. Yes, use the same. Lots of people had problems using other plugs after changing them with non-OEM. Stock plug is NGK PLFR5A-11. Google Frontier spark plug change and there are a few videos to walk you through it. While you're in there consider an IMS. Pic below. It does make a difference Thread here http://www.thenewx.org/forum/78-members-product-sale/52189-mps-xtp-intake-manifold-spacer-ims.html
  8. Yep, it's a PITA. Had to make the change in the 3.3 in my Pathfinder. Laying on the engine completely blind with a Frankenstein-esque mix of u-joint & extensions They are supposed to be good for 160k. Replace them with the same plugs. # 5 is the PITA on the 4.0 (under the plastic runners). Some people used extensions & joints & have success. I pulled the intake manifold. Also took the opportunity to add an intake manifold spacer at the same time
  9. Had to take off the clutch fan & fan blade this afternoon. Running without them until tomorrow. The new fan plate I installed earlier this week is defective and the bearing is almost gone after only 40 kms. Noticed this time there is a small piece missing from one fan blade after the last episode when the bearing failed completely. Can't believe that this small piece could lead to pre-mature bearing failure..could it?
  10. Fan bracket replaced. The bearing in the old one completely disintegrated.
  11. Ordered a new fan bracket today (bolts to the block and the clutch fan attaches to it). Got really, really lucky when the bearing let go on Saturday. I'll post pics later, but the clutch fan, fan & pulley dropped to the bottom of the engine bay after the bearing literally separated. No advanced warning, no squeal, nothing. Rad is good, plastic fan blade is good & the belt is good. It came apart in the Sobeys parking lot so I had to call a friend to get tools to remove the fallen fan assembly before I could drive it home on the battery alone. I got really lucky! Total cost o
  12. IIRC the warn gasket is still paper/felt based.
  13. Warn hub gaskets are known issues. Almost every post on forums you read recommend a gasket from a tube to seal the hub. I experienced this as well Eugene with a new set of Warn 29091 hubs on a pathfinder. 2 months later (axle replacement), I found water in the hubs.
  14. ^^ Agreed. I treat a U-bolt like a "torque to yield" bolt. I'd never rebuild an engine with old bolts and see U-bolts as being the same. They undergo extreme stress especially off road when you drag them over obstacles. Well, that & the fact that they always seem to sheer at the nut when trying to remove them
  15. Sleeve or new bushings would fix your problem. Use a caliper and measure the shock diameter and then go to the Prothane site to find bushings that work for your application. I had to replace my Bilstein bushings in the rear shocks. Took a bit of online homework, but I found the right ones in about an hour. $20 bucks and you're ready to go Once I had the part #, I ordered mine through a local shop (R&D Performance). There are several shops in HRM that order direct from Prothane as well.
  16. I stand behind gates as well, in fact I wouldn't be surprised if the OEM was made by them. It was also mentioned that smooth rubber is more likely to slip & stretch (heat from slipping) when wet. When wet the belt would slip very bad until dry. The cloth backed one is not supposed to slip (or at least not as much). Time will tell how long it lasts. I was able to source one of the afore mentioned rattles; One of my kids metal planes was rattling againts the seat track on the passenger's side...lol
  17. New clutch fan, pulley & belt installed. Unfortunately I can hear more creaks & squeaks than before, but that's not related to the belts Must say that I also learned something today...not all belts are created equal. The Gates belt that I had on the X had a smooth rubber back; the OEM I picked up ($5 more) is more cloth like. Had a chance to chat with the Master Tech @ Truro Nissan and learned that it is a common issue (high pitched squeal) using an aftermarket belt on a worn (flat side) pulley especially when the clutch fan is shot.
  18. Picked up a new clutch fan, pulley and belt today. Can't wait to have the X not sound like a greyhound bus. The fan will not disengage and spins with the engine RPM's. It's so bad now that the belt slips on the pulley (now gouged) and makes a very, very, high pitched squeal over 2k rpms. The sound is much worse than the metal tab wear indicator on brake pads!
  19. Put the new studs in the freezer for a few hours Jay and then grab them and run to install (one at a time). I've been amazed at how well this works when a part has to be pressed into place.
  20. Thanks and yes they do. With my additions to the slider offering; if they bend or break, the X will be written off as a result. Bolt on = yes. Mounting system = more solid than the OEM frame ;)
  21. Sliders have been added. Took a little fab & some head scratching to complete the install.
  22. The locker only engages with torque from the drive shaft; the wheels don't have any impact at all. Recall that I have a send Gen X with a full time front end and there are a lot of installs. Here is one of the first reviews from 2013 http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64014&highlight=lokka I've also learned that there is a GB on Club Frontier for $259US...Darn CDN $ will still have that higher than your GB price of $299 with the exchange rate today lol
  23. They won't work. Warn 29091 are the only reliable hubs that will fit a Nissan (90-04 Pathfinder & Hardbody/Frontier & 00-04 Xterra). Jay, when you get the new hub, just install the drive flanges I gave you and be done with it. You don't drive the X enough to be concerned about MPG ;). A replacement CV axle is less than the cost of the situation that you find yourself in now.
  24. Progress being made, and some issue to deal with early in the week. 2 coats of POR-15 done and drying. Bedliner tomorrow ;) I did find an issue with the side frame mounting locations. The bolts I'll be using are 1/2" grade 8, but the mounting locations are more than suspect (IMO) without some engineering. You can see in the front pics the circle is the mount location for my sliders, and the arrow shows the usual mounting location from other companies. The solution; a slug. I'm going to have 2 made on Monday and run the bolt straight through. The rear is similar however
  25. Came home today and the sliders were on my front deck! They look great. Picked up some POR-15 to use as a base coat and some bedliner for the top coat. No hardware was included (expected) but I have a set of mounts that have all the bolts/washers and other stuff so I don't really care. Only sad note is that there is a 1" seam weld that was missed on the driver's side where the rub rail meets the main slider/rock rail. Now have to find someone to complete that section before I can start painting; the prep is commencing in my basement in a few minutes ;)
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