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TRUXterra last won the day on February 9 2017

TRUXterra had the most liked content!

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About TRUXterra

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    Established Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1975

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  • Location
    Truro, NS
  • Vehicle
    2006 Nissan Xterra

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  1. Radflo's re-built. Such a simple design. 1 set screw; remove the threaded collar ring; pull the shaft assembly out; replace 4 rubber 0-rings; set the air-oil piston depth; fill with oil and re-assemble. Total process took less than an hour per shock
  2. Swapped the OEM front coilovers under the X. Ordered a rebuilt kit for both front Radlos. 8 years & 80k kms later, the cost is less than $100 for the re-build kits ;). I have a mean Roaster stance now that the front has dropped 3"
  3. TRUXterra


    If I have to re-paint the X, it will be orange! I know the Zuk is a very SWB so I'm surprised that the sliders bolt to the body & the frame.
  4. Can't imagine how that Model T handled Eugene! Sorry, you left that out there and I had to say it
  5. That can also be part of the fun driving in the winter! I don't put my X into 4WD until I can make no additional forward progress; I love driving in the winter in 2WD as is keeps the hand-wheel reflexes sharp. It's all about the tires and the right foot. When I had my MT's; I couldn't get up the hill without 4WD; with the Duratracs, I rarely use it. My neighbor has a 2WD Ranger and I've only had to tow him once in the past 8 years I've lived here...he runs studded winter tires though. Regardless of the "fun", if you can't stop; something has to change. That's the reason I ditched the MT's...it was f'n scary!
  6. TRUXterra


    Jay, I had a similar problem with my John Deere lawn tractor. It worked well after a carb rebuild and then started the same problems that you are experiencing. Now before all of you start saying "apples & oranges", keep in mind a carb is a carb. In my case it turns out the retention "loops" that hold the pin through the float were too loose and the pin would slide from one side to the other and sometimes fall out of the holder or preventing the float from operating on the proper axis. A very simple problem that may, or may not, be the cause of your fuel over-flow. I fuC<ed around for weeks before talking someone who recommended that I use pliers to secure the "pin ends" as the float pivots on that pin independantly...needless to say...problem solved.
  7. Did you do the reset procedure?
  8. Nissan part #38323-C601A. It's from a Titan but it will thread into your 226 perfectly. Thread from Frontier forum http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f62/2nd-gen-axle-vent-mod-write-up-40925/
  9. I replace a hub every 2 years so you're lucky. Most of my driving is in town though and the roads in Truro are...well let's just say that dirt roads are in better shape Was it you that got tagged by a car a few years back (I'm too lazy to search..lol)? If so & the leak is on the same side I'd be thinking the axle is tweeked. I'll find the part # for the OEM breather nipple for you in the next few days. It cost me $7 for the part & $10ish for the fuel line & zip ties! Best $20 I ever spent! The end of the hose is wrapped around the light socket of the upper most light of the tail light...if I get into water that deep, the rear diff is the least of my worries!
  10. Lifted Nissan's (05+) with larger tires eat front wheel hubs like CANDY! For the rear axle, have you checked the diff breather cap? If it's seized you'll blow seals. Check for the rear diff breather mod in the event that is what caused your blow out again this time ;).
  11. I haven't used it on the X, but in the past, I've found that the "crimp" style has always been too tight (to fasten), or too loose (to hold). It might have been Canadian Tire where I found that tool as well.
  12. Scott, this is the CV band tool I've had for almost a decade. I've replaced more than a dozen (and no, not on the same vehicle) without any issues. It uses a solid band clamp, not the "notched" type. I paid $10 for it a PA!
  13. I did the same as you; removed the intake...but I was also installing a spacer while I was in there. I've seen where people have done it with a couple flex joints but that seemed to be more of a PITA. Not sure what it is with Nissan, but the seem to hide a plug on most of the V6's. Just ask Jay about the #6 plug on a 3.3L...Lay on your belly on the engine and work blind. That was more of a PITA when I changed the plugs in the old Pathfinder!
  14. Replaced the complete belt driven fan assembly, from mount to fan blade. It's nice to have connections; mount, pulley, tensioner & fan blade for $100 cash. It came from a 2014 Pathfinder with 16.4k kms Should have gone tis route the first time. The Dorman part that failed will be covered by warranty so I can return it for a cash refund (~$75).
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