sar4x4 Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 Nice work! All I did was break ****. Story later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronin Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 made some gussets and welded them on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Parts I acquired recently: 1) Currie E-Z Deflator; Deb got it for my B'Day. 2) TMR 14 Bolt Shave Kit! 3) 1350 Yoke for my 14 Bolt Axle. To go with the 1350 driveshaft with the 208 SYE kit...(kit not purchased yet) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Sunday: 1) Installed new wipers on the Burban. They were 5 years old, and quite streaky! 2) Took my bad wheel RF bearing off. And well, I have Stage 8 Lock nuts, made of 4340, and let's say they are stronger than the surrounding parts.... My brother installed them and I was mistaken on how to take them off. I broke a socket adapter first, and I gouged the spindle. Until I did it correctly. Socket adapter is easily replaced, and it was PA anyway, and maybe not the very best quality. I think the spindle will be okay, if not, I'll get another one. I know how to take it apart quickly...... Bearings were replaced in winter 2013, a month shy of 3 years ago. I guess I should clean them once a year instead of dousing them in mud then putting them away wet.... Will have to do the LF soon as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 And lastly. I have a BAD TRE, However, it probably isn't the ball and socket portion of the TRE. It's the stud in the hole in the steering knuckle ear. The TRE stud feels like a 3/8" bolt in a 1/2" hole! The hole may be enlarged/elongated/wallowed out. I may have to shim and ream it, OR finally switch to the cross-over steering/high steer arms.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e36m3 Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Get'er done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 yes, what a great excuse reason to get the crossover steer done....you know you want to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronin Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 SAR4x4 , I've been using an ARB E-Z Deflator for years . great product , same design as the Currie . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Good to hear. There are a couple around here with good reviews at the New Years Day run so my gf said she'd get me one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Replaced lower ball joint....again Covered under a warranty so can't complain. Now to install new sway bar links........how hard could it be? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomWood Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Removed sway bar today, also fixed the shimmy shock position again but all is well now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 Removed all bearings and bearing races from the hub and spindle. Although the bearings were intact; rollers, cages, etc, I've seen them disintegrated before, they were very muddy and worn/loose. Pics too follow. Prying the spindle bearing out was a PITA. I now have to also purchase a spindle bearing and seal before reassembling. And the locking hub, although it still worked, and it was a bit stiff to turn though, had some retaining rings loose and will need to be reassembled. Everything needs a good cleaning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted February 12, 2016 Report Share Posted February 12, 2016 I had to beat the living crap out of my spindle bearings to get them out....they would never have survived! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Yup, I had to cut/chisel the spindle bearing out! Almost all replaceable parts: Inner, outer and spindle bearings, and big axle seal. Spindle seals not shown. Dried out outer bearing: Remnants of the spindle bearing: The dried out and unintentionally diss-assembled locking hub! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 OCD kicked on today. I never just replace the parts and re-install. To be fair I just ordered the spindle bearing and seals yesterday and they won't be here till at least Wednesday. I've cleaned all pieces, inside and out, de-scaled any rust, washed with brake cleaner, and sprayed rust converter on any outside surfaces. I'll paint another night, and also finish re-surfacing where the bearings and races sit, especially the marks I made where the spindle bearing sits inside the spindle. When everything goes back on its clean and painted! I always do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 May as well do a proper job whilst you've got it all apart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 I concur. When I swapped my front axle 3 years ago I painted it all and it still shows. As yours will Jay! Leaf spring packs, shocks, spring shackles, some new body cross-members, etc etc all painted upon install years ago and can still tell. Sure slows me down but I can't help it! lol It's part of the fun. The process. I can't work on or trouble shoot muddy, dirty, rusted parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 I would not make money being a mechanic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronin Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 13 hours ago, sar4x4 said: I would not make money being a mechanic! Not many of us would , most of us are too honest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 lol. And I know you meant no disrespect meant to all honest shops and mechanics. The dishonest ones give a bad name to the honest ones. Like any vocation. Even lawyers and politicians! What I meant was if I was changing oil and saw bad belts, and brakes, etc I wouldn't know when to stop! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronin Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Just having fun . worked In shops for 20 years , I've heard it all . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 We could start a new thread. How we are miss-understood. I'm an employee of the federal government. That makes me lazy and stupid and over paid. And I work for the Department of Public Works. Let's pretend in staffing. So you can call me about a municipal culvert that's blocked. Eh, no. Wrong on two counts. And I'm a Survey Engineer. No, not a Civil Engineer. And I've done work on the Confederation Bridge. But no, not a bridge engineer. No, not a land surveyor that can sign property plans, no............. oh well what the heck! Tell me your problem and I'll tell you I'll look into it,,,,,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Reinstalled the Bronco brakes ...the right way round this time. Fitted the '94 GMC brake lines. Installed the track bar and mount....I think this track bar is going to the just a touch too long. Also, the drag link might be too long. It's 1 inch solid steel....might be an easy sleeve? For simplicity it would be really nice for it all to just fit - I guess there's really only one way for find out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 NICE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 a few weeks ago I had a splurge and bought a tri-band mobile radio to replace the jerry-rigged dual band handheld. Whilst I've been mostly happy with the handheld, it's low 5W output (in reality probably 3W to 4W) just wasn't cutting it for distance. This one is 25W and also has transmit on the 1.25 meter band. .....and the Chinglish instructions are hilarious !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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