SQRLPWR Posted September 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 It's an Airtex E8012S and it seems to be happy right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted September 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 Finished off the brakes, and they are 100% sorted (minus the parking brake cable) since I fitted the longer lines, installed the rear adjusters and re-bled. Pedal has virtually no give, is rock hard and it stops on a dime. No more double pumping I should pass scrutineering on Saturday now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted September 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 1 hour ago, jay said: It's an Airtex E8012S and it seems to be happy right now I emailed the manufacturer of the fuel pump...here's the response to my configuration; "Tank - Airtex E8012S (at the rear) - Carquest 86040 (return to tank) - Holley regulator @ ~2.5 PSI - HD carb" "Good morning. The E8012S will not require a return line to the fuel tank. The setup that you list should work adequately for your vehicle." So it sounds like I'm good either way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted September 30, 2016 Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 I'm confused, but I haven't done any research. Assuming the electric pump stops when pressure builds, when the carb bowl / float is full, what will trigger it to stop if you have a return line? Will it just pump at max flow 100% of the time, and if so, is it rated for that? If not, will it burn out? Or, if there is just enough resistance to stop when the bowl/filter is full, and then pump stops, and then the return line drains the filter, then you could have a fuel stavation problem until the pump kicks back in? I dunno! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted September 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 My guess is the pump attempts to output its max PSI whether it's flowing or not. There are conflicting opinions online whether the above scenario is good or not. In my mind, it makes more sense to have excess fuel returned by the valve, instead of the pump trying to force it by the carb. ...we'll see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted September 30, 2016 Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 1 hour ago, jay said: My guess is the pump attempts to output its max PSI whether it's flowing or not. There are conflicting opinions online whether the above scenario is good or not. In my mind, it makes more sense to have excess fuel returned by the valve, instead of the pump trying to force it by the carb. ...we'll see When I ran that pump, I ran it single line to the Holley 4bbl carb with no regulator, just plain old fuelfilter, worked flawlessly for years till the truck got impounded and I never got it back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted October 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2016 Had a great time on MUD Run Day 2 !! I'm so happy with how the Zuki did....and the brake fix worked flawlessly!! I've got a couple of things I need to do... The 1.6 motor with the 1.3 rad seems to like to run hot, especially with no air flow or high rpms. The clutch fan isn't engaging very well either, so that wont help The yellow Zuk had a DIY e-fan, so I've ordered a temperature controlled relay, with a plan to swap out the clutch fan for the electric fan. Also the alternator wasn't charging...or at least we think. We don't know since there was an electrical issue with one of the wires. So, I need to re-install the 12v gauge, and get my volt meter on the alternator to see what the output is. I have a spare chev alternator. Also, since draining the thick rear diff fluid on Friday, the new runny oil produced a pinion seal leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted October 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2016 Couldn't find my multimeter, so decided to have a tidy up and move some more parts upstairs.....did I find the multimeter....nope On the upside, I've now got room to replace a rear wheel bearing on Tracey's Flex....it's got 15K on a noisy bearing - i think it's about time LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 That is some pile o' parts! I've not seem an inventory like that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autumnwalker Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Jay's going to need his own inventory management system! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted October 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Yeah there's a lot. Mostly it's from the yellow one, and the rest is a few tubs of parts, axles, driveshafts, tcases etc that were kindly donated to the cause Still some big stuff left to move up there - motor, axle tubes and 3rds, targa bar, tire carrier. The motor might not make it....my back hurts just thinking about that LOL Did some rewiring last night. All the accessories are switched via the key and not permanently on. Weirdly after getting a flat battery on the run, the alternator is pushing out 13.x volts - and my fancy battery charger thought the battery was at 60% charged. Maybe the alternator is ok. Put 2 liters of oil in it - next purchase - valve stem oil seals! Painted the efan ready to go in later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted October 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 The Zuki came with strong home made tire carrier, but the rear bumper isn't mounted securely enough to take the weight of the carrier and a tire. So, the plan was to strengthen the bumper. Then I had a thought....why not use the stock carrier off the yellow one and use a spare wheel spacer to make the 31 inch spare tire fit. That would save a little fab time and weight too! It fits! ..and the tire rests on the bumper to give the tailgate a little help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted October 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 efan mockup is in. I wasn't able to put in between the rad and the motor, so it's a pusher! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted October 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 got the efan shroud mounted to the rad by 'making' a couple of support tubes to bolt through. just need to wire the thermo relay up now and give 'er a test Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted October 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Blue wrench powered LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted October 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 Found my multi-meter!! The alternator was only pushing out 13.00 volts. So I've swapped it out. That should keep the squirrels happy for a little while! Also, dug out the battery tie-down bolt from deep down in my inner fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 2 hours ago, jay said: Found my multi-meter!! The alternator was only pushing out 13.00 volts. So I've swapped it out. That should keep the squirrels happy for a little while! Also, dug out the battery tie-down bolt from deep down in my inner fender. Sounds great! I'm not an electrical technologist but it goes something like this I believe. Multi-meters only check voltage, not the waveform. So when a diode is bad in the alternator, and your voltmeter is showing 13.00 volts, there likely are segments of the waveform missing, and it is not even coming close to charging the battery properly........ And # 2 - We may want to consider amending our equipment guidelines, if we ever start to scrutineer vehicles, that batteries have to be 'tied' down! I've had batteries come loose, and thankfully we got the fire out before there was much damage. But then the little hidden damage led to bigger damage........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted October 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 I finished my Electrical & Electronic Engineering degree in '89....I can just about remember some of it on a good day LOL.... You're right #1 - there's a bridge rectifier in them to smooth out the AC to DC-ish. Mine must have blown a diode as the voltage was fluctuating between 13 and 13.6 You're right #2 - I should have had the battery tied down in the 1st place Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brunet-Hemi Posted October 7, 2016 Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 I have an Electronics Engineering Technology Diploma from 4 years ago and I remember next to nothing from it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted October 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2016 Same here...use it or loose it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted October 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 The lil'Zuk has double shackles on the front - but it also has death wobble. As you can see from the photo, there's a significant amount of side to side movement even just turning the wheels. So I've welded a brace across the 2 long shackles. Now that play is gone! The Zuk is so light it wasn't able to droop the top shackle down, so I also welded it to the frame so it can't move at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted October 8, 2016 Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 Good. Double shackles are just too much play in my opinion, and maybe even worse if at the front of the front! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted October 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 needs bushings too I think, now I'm looking at the fist photo...the top bolt is riding high on the right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted October 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 WOW!!! I took a drive to Sackville and those changes have transformed the ride! Now I can stop AND steer!! Also, I called in at Chads - he wanted my steering wheel, and I was looking for a Suzuki wheel....so we swapped. The Suzuki wheel is much bigger - like a bus!! so the steering also feels a lot lighter now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted October 8, 2016 Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 That's awesome!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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