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Zuk


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6 hours ago, jay said:

 

 

Also, during rock-gaurding i found a 2 inch sq. of rust behind the front wheel, where water would spray onto the bottom of the rockers. I poked at it and it produced a hole into the to rocker.

Gonna need to deal with that hole with some new sheet metal ASAP.

Welcome to zuk life .:1008:be careful welding it up they are like welding tissue paper lol

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Once my brakes were like that when a wheel bearing was gone.  The caliber was using up its travel just to straighten the wheel.  Not unexpected for you to have some bearing and TRE type problems after a few miles.  BTW, is it open or closed knuckle like a Toy, ball joints or king pins or something else?

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22 minutes ago, sar4x4 said:

Once my brakes were like that when a wheel bearing was gone.  The caliber was using up its travel just to straighten the wheel.  Not unexpected for you to have some bearing and TRE type problems after a few miles.  BTW, is it open or closed knuckle like a Toy, ball joints or king pins or something else?

Im not familiar with this setup...it looks like a Birfield? With kingpins.

Matt did suggest a bearing is the likely cause of the brake problem.

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Ahh yes, Birfields, like Toys.  Don't put a locker in the front the front! lol.  Not 35s"


Then you'll be upgrading to Birfield rings, and shaving the bottom. Etc.  But with the drop out third member they are much easier to work on than a Dana I hear!

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Wow!  That old one was not going to last too many revolutions before heating and pitting and failing!  Or whatever they do!


So, how did you get to Burnside?  It's great you work at home, until you need something downtown!

 

I used to buy at Motion Canada, iirc the name correctly.  For the large front hub wheel bearings they used to be cheaper.  Dunno lately.

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But once you have a bearing manufacturer name and number, you can check at NAPA, CARQUEST, Motion, Canada Bearing, PartSource, etc easily.

Sometimes the prices vary widely.  And I don't know the best manufacturer.  Re-packing them once in a while is probably WAY more important than the brand name!

 

SKF has a good rep usually.  And Timken.

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9 minutes ago, sar4x4 said:

But once you have a bearing manufacturer name and number, you can check at NAPA, CARQUEST, Motion, Canada Bearing, PartSource, etc easily.

Sometimes the prices vary widely.  And I don't know the best manufacturer.  Re-packing them once in a while is probably WAY more important than the brand name!

 

SKF has a good rep usually.  And Timken.

Partsource - $30 - I didn't try Canada Bearings, as the Partsource is really close to my house

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21 minutes ago, jay said:

Partsource - $30 - I didn't try Canada Bearings, as the Partsource is really close to my house

Logistics plays a big part in price!  Don't drive across town, when you don't have the time anyway, and risk your bearing and transmission and MVI you don't have to comment on, to save $1.30..........

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On ‎8‎/‎28‎/‎2016 at 9:31 PM, sar4x4 said:

Jay, I know a source for some Zuk stuff.  PM any particular piece and I'll check if it's available.  And this guy says he's never broke a Zuk axle.

 

I'll tell ya about his rig sometime.  Ya wouldn't believe it..............

 

Dave: Have you ever seen the Hot Wheels Zuk that used to be around........  I know where it is...............

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Leaky whiny trans is out. It would have been a quick drop, but with the 1.6 adapter plate, I had to remove the front driveshaft in order to drop the bell housing as it's just a little too wide with the adapter on. Should make re-installation easier too.

Before I fit the other one, I need drain it and fix the slop in the stick - a common and easy fix (apparently) :)

IMG_20160912_213018.jpg

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