Powerram Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 I got 40"light bar on da Ford lol we could park In front of the door, in my garage I have one lone bulb on the celing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 If ya want , I can come over tonight and help ya fire it up, but no ford light bar, I got droplight on a cord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 You gotta keep an eye out for commercial renovations. I found 2 of these monsters sitting beside a dumpster, I just added a plug to the end and they work great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 10 hours ago, 82Yota said: You gotta keep an eye out for commercial renovations. I found 2 of these monsters sitting beside a dumpster, I just added a plug to the end and they work great!   I lived in a medium-large apartment building for a few years. Wood furniture, a beautiful medium sized micro-wave, bicycle, wooden shevles, lamps, fans, oh my gosh what a lot of stuff I was able to re-use, re-purpose, etc. I did not touch anything with cloth or that could hold bed bugs or other unsanitary conditions. Just stuff that could be cleaned with Spray Nice, etc, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 What a day!! Matt and Dave came over and helped a lot today to get the remaining parts bolted in. Once everything was installed, we had problems getting it fired up. So after checking my timing job, installing new plugs and wires, we hit a problem with the starter. We must have gone through 5 or 6 starter rebuilds before we got one that was working. However, we were still not able to get it running properly so we stripped down the carb..still not any better. The we replaced the fuel pump and lines and it fired up much better, but not perfect - it's spitting fuel out of the intake and exhaust - so I need to dial in the fuel pressure with the new pump....but since the fuel pressure gauge isn't working, I need to pick one up. Â Â Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted August 14, 2016 Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 2 hours ago, jay said: What a day!! Matt and Dave came over and helped a lot today to get the remaining parts bolted in. Once everything was installed, we had problems getting it fired up. So after checking my timing job, installing new plugs and wires, we hit a problem with the starter. We must have gone through 5 or 6 starter rebuilds before we got one that was working. However, we were still not able to get it running properly so we stripped down the carb..still not any better. The we replaced the fuel pump and lines and it fired up much better, but not perfect - it's spitting fuel out of the intake and exhaust - so I need to dial in the fuel pressure with the new pump....but since the fuel pressure gauge isn't working, I need to pick one up. Â Â Â Â Get me a part number and Ill look on Monday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 Thanks, it's just a generic 15psi fuel pressure gauge. I should be able to pick one up from PA tomorrow. Â Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted August 14, 2016 Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 I know that you folks know your stuff. Â But does that style pump and carb match, do you need a return line and if you have one is it blocked! Â I don't have much experience with that stuff though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil'monster Posted August 14, 2016 Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 Is it to late to go with the fuel injection I don't think the wiring is to bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 Not sure about the FI, but I guess it could be added. I know FI works really well. It could be my downfall, but I like the idea of less wires. I also went and replaced the return filter with one that was recommended on zuwharrie (or somewhere like that, I forget). It now idles cold with the choke, but still spits fuel on acceleration. I can't get it warm as the water isn't plumbed back it. I did notice something this morning - the fuel that's coming out of the intake is brown. Maybe the fuel cell is full of silt!! I'm going the drain and re-fill to see if that helps. Nowhere has a fuel pressure gauge, so one is coming on Tuesday  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flibby Posted August 14, 2016 Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 lol, now you are in my realm, quite familiar with Harley cv carbs  did you check it for junk, make sure the diaphragm is not ripped?  and just as info on those cv's the idle mixture screw is hidden by an aluminium plug unless someone pulled it already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2016 yes, we had it apart and it looked clean and the airways seemed to be clear. diaphragm looks to be in good shape, no rips or pin holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Pulled the intake manifold to inspect the gasket - it's in one piece but a little corroded. Can I use RTV or another sealant on both sides of this gasket to make a good seal ? Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 3 hours ago, jay said: Pulled the intake manifold to inspect the gasket - it's in one piece but a little corroded. Can I use RTV or another sealant on both sides of this gasket to make a good seal ? Â Yep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 I got the motor running consistently for the 1st time after a few days of troubleshooting. The fuel pressure gauge was broken, so I put a new one on and it seems the fuel pressure regulator is inoperable. I made a 'lunch bag condom with a pinhole' to get the fuel pressure down from 3 PSI to 2 PSI - I've been advised it should be 1 PSI with this Harley Davidson carb. If it's too high it forces fuel past the needle and seat. .... so it's still running rough.....but it's running on it's own now New regulator is on order! Â Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Awesome Jay!! Â Man, I can't wait to see you out in this little beast!! Â What do you have left to do to get it on the road? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Ha, me too!! Assuming I can get the motor dialed in; Needs some rear brakes - it has none. I've got all I need on some donor axles, so I need to remove the brakes from those and re-install. unfortunately I'll destroy the bearings to get the backing plates off...so it needs bearings and seals to do the brakes..I'm on my way to get those now. It's got a fuel cell - I've got a factory tank that needs checking for holes, cleaning up and installing. I'll need to make some brackets to hang it, then tidy up the fuel lines. Needs a windshield, and the windshield frame straightening - hood opened up on the trailer on the highway LOL. Rear lights need to be looked at - should be a simple wire job. A safety inspection. Â Then little things like, it could do with seats, gauges hooking up and whatever else I find. I want to rock guard and salt proof it all underneath. Â That's all I know for now...but I'm trying to get it ready for the Summer event! Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Oh yeah...rear shocks...it has none, and nowhere to connect some to the axles. I'll probably weld a bolt to the leaf perches and try Eugene's adjustable shocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flibby Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 makes sense with the fuel pressure, they are typically only gravity fed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 A little update - the motor is running! Seems there are 2 timing marks on the cam pulley - i had a 50/50 change of fecking it up LOL Removed the seized rear brake cylinders and cleaned them up. The rear brakes are different to the newer yellow Zuk; they have 2 flex lines as apposed to traditional 1 flex and a connecting hard line. This means the cylinders are different on the 2 flex line version I have, so basically I'll just use 2 lefties. Started on rewiring the rear lights - none of them work. Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 Progress is better now the motor is running Got the rear lights working....kinda. This rig was originally separate stop and turn wires/ Amber bulbs, and has been converted to stop & turn on 1 wire. I like this config and I don't want to add another light pod, but I think the trailer conversion used to convert it isn't working properly. I have everything working, except hazards on the rear. Turns and stops work. Hazards signal is on the input wire but on the output. Turn signals are on both input and output. It's weird...I'm gonna sleep on it LOL Once that's done, I've got a problem with the main lights. One is really dim. I bought 2 new sealed beam lights as these were looking bad. But, the problem is likely to be some wiring issue as there's additional crap in the front light loom. Â Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil'monster Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 Dim light is a bad ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted August 21, 2016 Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 If the wiring is right and the bulb is dim, the ground is bad, as Clarence says. And 99.99% of wiring problems is bad ground. But if there is additional wiring in the loom, well, it is likely still a bad ground! lol 99.99% of the time.  If you put 12v in and out (and therefor full amperage), the light has to be bright. The only way you can have good ground and poor light, is if there is an additional 'load' in the circuit........................ bad wiring. Two lights in sequence for example. Each light (or load), is only getting 'half' of the 12v.  As for hazards in the front and not rear and switching from separate turn signals to stop and turn together, do your research. I added a third brake light to my Burb. And I had to run a wire from the brake pedal I believe iirc. Because I couldn't just tap into a rear brake light, because rear brake lights are also a left or right signal light,,. When I did that the first time, the third brake light worked just fine with the brakes. I didn't test it with anything else. And someone told me the third brake light also flashed with the Left signal light! So I got out the wiring diagram and ran the wire for the third brake light from 'before' where the brake and turn signals get mixed together.  Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 I have a Haynes manual and the diagram matches my test light. I think the convertor is the problem. PA tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Jay... what sealed beam lights are they? If they are the standard round 7" ones like my Jeep, I have 2 you can have for spares... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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