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bleeding brakes


e36m3

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I replaced my rear calipers, pads, rotors and parking brake assembly recently. I tried to bleed the rear but dont get any fluid coming out. I had to apply the brakes to be able to put the truck in neutral ( AT tranny ) and the master cylinder reservoir was empty. I filled it up, a bunch of bubbles came out. I still get a firm pedal after a 3-4 pumps, but nothing in the rear, anyone ever had that happen? Its all I need to do before the alignment and the big tires

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the truck was off, though, i never turned it on. i'll ask a friend who is a red seal mechanic on monday and worked at dealerships for about 10 years. cant wait to get her done so i can go get my 34s mounted

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Bled the brakes on a friends 09 Taco just over a month ago and had no issues. You have to have the ignition on the bleed the rear brakes; that is you issue. We found a site that posted the FSM procedure...I'll see if I can fin it. You will hear the pump running as you bleed the rear brakes, but the front are bled as usual.

ETA: I started the post and had to run after a kid and you found the answer. You MIGHT" have to go to the dealership if you have a soft pedal after bleeding the rear lines. There is a small reservoir of fluid that the ABS unit uses to work the ABS/Trac control system. If there is air in that section, the pump needs to be turned on constant to remove that air.

link to the section of the FSM specific to bleeding brakes (it's a PDF link) http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/attachments/maintenance-tech/26409d1222909734-bleeding-brake-fluid-air-lines-br-5-brake-bleeding.pdf

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the worst part would be to get it towed there from porters lake. I will probably go for a run next weekend when my skids are back on the truck with the new tires and lift kit, to see how it does. i was thinking about hard n soft, if someone wants to guide me as i dont know the area well there.

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the worst part would be to get it towed there from porters lake. I will probably go for a run next weekend when my skids are back on the truck with the new tires and lift kit, to see how it does. i was thinking about hard n soft, if someone wants to guide me as i dont know the area well there.

I have got the gps track of that run if you. Want it..

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the abs light comes up and beeps if i hold the brakes for too long. i guess i ll have to bring to the dealership to reset the abs.

one weird thing is when i fired the truck, the battery light came up too and never went away. i went for a rip in the bush for about an hour and never went away. as i was on my home the radio shut down, the wipers had no power and every time i would hit the brakes, the voltmeter would drop.

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i just finished charging my battery, and tested with the truck running and not running. the battery loses its charge when i fire the truck, so i ll be on the hunt for a new alternator, F**k me, this truck really doesnt want to run these days

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Hey, I never hear Jeep guys complaining that they drive their rigs hard and they never break down? Oh wait, maybe! I can't speak for mrjoe's truck but we get the feeling you use yours hard John! I don't believe we can drive them off-highway, especially in our rust prone climate, and not have problems. I know mine has spent many months and once even a couple years sitting in the back of the lot waiting for some much loved TLC. Now that I've gone higher, with bigger axles, and upgraded many a part (Check out Off Road Design, http://offroaddesign.com/), I've reduced a significant number of potential problems. But I've had others! If you wanna play, you gotta pay!

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anyone ever ordered a brush pack for their alternator? i looked it up on google and it seems really easy to replace. i m thinking about just getting a new brush pack, slap it on there and see if it works. pretty much do like this guy did

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/engine-performance/70947-battery-light-possible-fix-your-alternator.html

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Generally for my old truck you just buy a remanufactured alternator, everything is $70. Starter, alternator, 1-ton rotors, etc.

When the alternator went in my old Camry, and I went to Towne Toyota I think, before it became O'Regans, they said take it over to Rand Electric, which is what they would do for a rebuild. It cost less than $100 at the time, a new Toyota one was several hundred. Rand is now in Bayers Lake, there are similar places in Dartmouth.

AND a couple of years ago I did just as suggested above. I purchased a high-output alternator for mine. The one that was in it for the 10+ years that I owned it worked great, but the mounting bolt was seized in the case, and I feared that if I had to change the alternator away from home it might be even seized in the block. So I seized the opportunity to repair in the comfort of the garage with a higher output one. You have to also know that my truck had the OEM high output alternator of the time, which was 60 amps, the regular one was 45 amp. With today's electrics that is absurdly small! I did put a 130-140 amp one in it.

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