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CLUB RUN: RESCHEDULED April 21, 2013 - Bump 'n Grind


TomWood

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More details man as to which one dented...OEM of RR's? Based on your previous post, I'm believing it's the RR...imagine if you were stock...

In the end another great post as to why aftermarket skids are worth their weight!! I still have a golf ball sized dent in my lower oil pan from an outing back in 2009. I certainly will not have the same issue today (3/16" front to back) ;)

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lol, yes details do help, dented vs. scraped is a bit different.

In the end, another example as to why good skids should be at the top of the "mod list"...you can drag a vehicle under it's own power over many obstacles without too much fear.

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I tore the hoses connectors off my washer fluid bottle, almost ruined my license plate, scraped and dented rear drivers flare and bumper, dented gas tank skid, and thats about it so far, dont think I will run the second half of B&G until some more mods are completed, metal for the rockers being ordered in two weeks.

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I tore the hoses connectors off my washer fluid bottle, almost ruined my license plate, scraped and dented rear drivers flare and bumper, dented gas tank skid, and thats about it so far, dont think I will run the second half of B&G until some more mods are completed, metal for the rockers being ordered in two weeks.

but you enjoyed every minute of it.. you dirty girl.. LOL .... :smiley-laughing021:

(those on the run will understand)

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I tore the hoses connectors off my washer fluid bottle, almost ruined my license plate, scraped and dented rear drivers flare and bumper, dented gas tank skid, and thats about it so far, dont think I will run the second half of B&G until some more mods are completed, metal for the rockers being ordered in two weeks.

how did you say it went, oh yeah, Wheel, Break, Fix, Repeat.....always repeat. :)

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Nope Rob you still own the title for that one... Tom made it out under his own power!

That Liberty is a tank and Tom does not do it any favours! I am impressed by that thing.

And mine doesn't? I beg to differ Scott. MY always got me out of the trail on its OWN power. And when I break suspension parts, HOW quick am I to fix it, pretty damn fast. So don't sell ME short.

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And mine doesn't? I beg to differ Scott. MY always got me out of the trail on its OWN power. And when I break suspension parts, HOW quick am I to fix it, pretty damn fast. So don't sell ME short.

Agreed Rob, however it also required a run to home to get parts and then return to repair. I think Scott was noting that the Libby was able to get off the trails under it's own power, without any additional trips to leave the trail ;)

Spaceace, do you have the know-how & tools to do this repair on your own? I did this on my 96 Pathfinder (almost the same) and I can tell you for a fact that liberal amounts of your favoured rust fluid & air tools are a must. Given the age, most of the bolts will snap if you use a cheater bar and sockets in the driveway (ask me how I know!!??). For the bolt & nut combo, this is not an issue, you can get them from your favorite shop, for the bolts to OEM frame mount welded nuts, this is not going to work in you favour.

I used the auto-club at CFB Windsor when I replaced my rusted pan (in 2004) and it took about 2 hours start to finish...most shops will quote the shop manual hour time of 3.5 hours.

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Agreed Rob, however it also required a run to home to get parts and then return to repair. I think Scott was noting that the Libby was able to get off the trails under it's own power, without any additional trips to leave the trail ;)

That's what I was getting at. Bad choice of words I guess.

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Spaceace, do you have the know-how & tools to do this repair on your own? I did this on my 96 Pathfinder (almost the same) and I can tell you for a fact that liberal amounts of your favoured rust fluid & air tools are a must. Given the age, most of the bolts will snap if you use a cheater bar and sockets in the driveway (ask me how I know!!??). For the bolt & nut combo, this is not an issue, you can get them from your favorite shop, for the bolts to OEM frame mount welded nuts, this is not going to work in you favour.

I used the auto-club at CFB Windsor when I replaced my rusted pan (in 2004) and it took about 2 hours start to finish...most shops will quote the shop manual hour time of 3.5 hours.

Thanks for this.

The general consensus is the pans are known for rusting through in areas where they gather salt. Couple that with the fact that they are made of several sections of steel brazed together, I'd be fairly certain I cracked it on a rock, it's very crusty looking to start with.

TBH I'm can do basic maintenance, but when it comes to this I'll need to take it to a shop due to the lack of skills and tools.

Any shop recommendations would be gratefully received!

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