Lil'monster Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 They also have really nice quality switchs and indcator lights at competive prices Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil'monster Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Parts for trucks in burnside has waterproof relays and pig tales ask at the counter for them as they are hard to find because of their packaging Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 lol, change your mind much? :P I'll draft you a shematic tonight with a fuse block. Clarance is bang on, PA blocks are crap. I used a marie block as well (Blue Sea 5025). As for your question about grounds, you ground as close as possible to the device & yes you can ground items together (i.e. both relays to one spot, all lights to another) For connectors, I used the 2 pin trailer type. You can find them for ~$2 at Walmart, NAPA, PFT, etc. I used a total of 9 of them and I've had no issues in the past 2+ years. You would want 4 (one for each light) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autumnwalker Posted August 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 For connectors, I used the 2 pin trailer type. You can find them for ~$2 at Walmart, NAPA, PFT, etc. I used a total of 9 of them and I've had no issues in the past 2+ years. You would want 4 (one for each light) Good idea! My original plan (in my head) only required a single fuse and no relays - this has become much more complicated hence my desire for a fuse block and ideally some sort of relay block to keep it all tidy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 + it'll be easy to install other components later down the road ;) Map out where you'll mount things. The lenght of the run in conjunction with the load will determine your wire gauge requirements. A stereo shop is the best place to get heavier gauge wire needs as they cut to length. I would recommend 4 gauge from the battery to the fuse block, with 4 gauge ground. Large amp stereo fuse (also available at a car audio shop) between the battery to the block as well. The terminal ends for the heavy gauge is also best sourced there. Also a tip when using those 2 pin connectors. The female + should be coming from the relay wire, not coming from the light. In the pic above, the terminal on the left side would be coming from the relay, the terminal on the right would be attached to the light wiring. The reson for this is when you remove a light the + terminal is not exposed potentially shorting the circuit if you should flip the switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 And Duff, when looking for a fuse block, get one that uses the same fuse style as your H2. Most quality blocks will accept both the standard & mini style blade fuses in the slot, but if you have to choose one over the other, take the one that matches the H2. It's a PITA to carry multiple sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Here you go Duff Man Let me know the runs & load for the circuits. I can help you with fuses & wire gauge to use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autumnwalker Posted August 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 So even with a fuse block you still want to put a fuse between it and the battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil'monster Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 I don't it is a bit redundant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 You should always install a main fuse between the battery & the fuse block; period. Think of OEM set ups with fusible links & large fuses that lead from the battery. Clarence, you should add one! Think of a scenario where the main wire coating chaffs or breaks between the battery to the fuse block. Also what would happen if the fuse block came into contact with water across the main board. A short on that main line will take out a sh!t tonne of other electrical components on your vehicle, not to mention, potentially, torching your ride! Have you ever seen the sparks when attaching jumper cables? Now picture that under you hood when you are not there to make (or break) the connection! Do not skimp out on a $10 addition! The Main fuse should be as close as possible to the battery. My main fuse is 6" from the battery. If the connection to the fuse broke, it cannot touch a single metal part of the body/frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLAZZING-XJ Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 This post like most others is getting WAY out of hand... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 This post like most others is getting WAY out of hand... How so?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLAZZING-XJ Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 How so?? he only wants to add 4 lights and we are on pg2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLAZZING-XJ Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 lol, change your mind much? :P I'll draft you a shematic tonight with a fuse block. Clarance is bang on, PA blocks are crap. I used a marie block as well (Blue Sea 5025). As for your question about grounds, you ground as close as possible to the device & yes you can ground items together (i.e. both relays to one spot, all lights to another) For connectors, I used the 2 pin trailer type. You can find them for ~$2 at Walmart, NAPA, PFT, etc. I used a total of 9 of them and I've had no issues in the past 2+ years. You would want 4 (one for each light) what gauge are thees wires ? will they handle the 100watt bulb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Fair enough, but his "approach" has changed. There is a lot more to adding lights when you are not using the supplied wiring with the kit you purchase. Kits come with the relay, fuse, switch & wiring along with the lights. This install is custom with 1 switch, 4 lights & lots of custom wiring. You posted above while I was typing, and the 2 pin connectors are available from 10g - 18g. Most are 16g and that is fine at the light end as it's single draw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSinclair Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 I will accept a leadership role on the thread rating committee. This thread has merit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 I will accept a leadership role on the thread rating committee. This thread has merit. Wrong committee, you're the lead on trail rating...lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil'monster Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 You should always install a main fuse between the battery & the fuse block; period. Think of OEM set ups with fusible links & large fuses that lead from the battery. I have wired up engines from all 3 of the big three domestic manufacturer's into non traditional vehicles and when the harnesses were removed not one of them had a fuse or fusable link between the battery and the FUSE panel . but just about every import does this so I guess it can be done either way . I find it to be redundant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autumnwalker Posted August 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 I had to remove the "mark as solved" post because jesus h. christ this is complicated. lol I'm just going to duct tape a deep cycle battery to the hood of the truck and electrical tape the light leads onto it. Done. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 16, 2013 Report Share Posted August 16, 2013 I agree, it'll look so much better duct taped on the bonnet too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted August 17, 2013 Report Share Posted August 17, 2013 Include the main fuse. Tape the battery to the roof! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted August 17, 2013 Report Share Posted August 17, 2013 Include the main fuse. Tape the battery to the roof! Keep and reinstall the roofrack and stap the battery down! B)!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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