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Brave Little Toyota ...REBUILDING...


Guest RobertMcC

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Nothing cutting and welding cant fix. I mean I could cut the side of the hitch, to allow it to sit on top, bolts with minor trimming of the rad support and weld.

HitchMods.jpg

So Ill cut the yellow section out, square up the front frame rail, allowing me to sit the hitch on top of the frame rails, butt it against the front of the frame rail. allowed me to BOLT the hitch on and then weld the hitch to the front of the frame rails and the sides.

HitchMods-1.jpg

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Or something like this, rotated "upside down" & flush welded to to outer part of the frame and 4 triangular tabs welded to the hitch & inner frame for additional strength? Of course, my "cut" line would have to be adjusted for the thickness of the cross bar on the lateral support.

16160006_large.jpg

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Also just keeping the top bolt tab to use it to HOLD it in place.

Cutting it so its gonna act like a cap on the front of the frame rail, Piece of angle iron welded on the hitch, Gives me 4 sides around the frame rail. Ultize the hole in the front of the frame rail. Cross bolt + the 2 for the upper, then weld everything so its one with the frame.

This should also allow me to extend the frame 3" or more so when its time to SFA, I can push the front axle forward.

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lol, you're correct Rob. After I thought about it again, they are both the same in the end...it's been a long day & the brain is not working properly, no need to flip the part when the end result is the same. Just be sure the outer mounts on the hitch go back as far as possible on the outer frame rails to the front body mount.

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TAKE PICS OF THE INSTALL!!!

I WILL...

Strut assemblies be in next week, so ill fire them and the spacers to a shop to assemble. Last time I tried to compress a coil spring, I killed a electric impact and fired a nut into the wall, when spring compressor broke.

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thats gota make you happy watching your little toyota grow up brings a water to my eyes ...they grow up so fast

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Did some measurements it will sit on top, But its only 3" from the front of the frame to the body mount. and only 1" from the front to the AC line on the inside. Don't use AC so it could go.

The steel for the hitch is 1/4" so grinder gonna take alot of work and alot of disks. So I may pull in a favor with a shop with a plasma cutter to cut it.

And the biggest issue, part of moving the garage to Middleton, all the extension cords were packed and of course nothings open. Womp WHAAAAA

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I checked the scmatics for the clutch line. Its pretty much the same as mine ( what I made is what they replaced the longer line for )

So that cancels it out. As everybody else said.

As for air, there is NONE. I bled it soo many times and there NO leaks. So I'm re looking at the clutch pedal. Because the pedal will work when I flip it back up, I'm thinking it might be binding up. Because it got some side play in the pedal.

I'd like to un seize the toe lower control arm cam bolts...Bolt, Plate and nut plate its about 60$ for just those 3 parts, and theres 4 of each.

Mine did that before, ended up being the throw-out bearing was sticking on the sleeve on the trans. Took the clutch out, cleaned the sleeve and it was fine after that
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Found a company that makes a 1 to 3" body lift for mine and everything needed. Its more $$$ then a suspension lift.

About 150- 190$ for the bushings, Then the steering knuckle spcer, rad drop, bumper brackets are extra.

But another funny thing, 96 uses only 8 bushings, 97 to 2000 10 bushings, different bushing then 96 and 01 to 02 uses different then the rest. But all a 3rd Gen 4runner.

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By no means is your truck ruined from this. It's a peice of metal man. I fix worse things than that on a daily basis.. On airplanes! :P buddy up with someone and replace that section of your floor.. Grind and grind some more around it until you're happy with the thickness to where you'll be welding and patch it.

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