Advice RE Nissan King Cab (mid-90's)

[Nightpath]

Howdy all,

I got a fellow I'm talking to about trading my Eagle with. He has a 1994 Nissan King Cab pickup (with a camper on the back). Local here to my area.

Anyways, I haven't got much more info on it, or seen it, but before I go further does anyone have any experience with these? I've read that they are tough vehicles and fairly reliable. If it doesn't have ridiculous KM on it and it's not beat apart or rusting to snot I might jump on it and give it a few inches lift (far as I know it's IFS).

[Eastcoastcam]

I am sure Devin (TRUXterra) will chime in on this one for you :)

[TomWood]

It is IFS, Devin would definitely be the one to give you some information, he is our Nissan Guru. Basic things to check (With all vehicles) which I am sure you know, frame, fuel and brake lines, brakes, undercarriage rust. One thing that seems common with trucks that year or around that year is frames going bad, Toyota's, Mazdas and more than likely Nissans.

[TRUXterra]

2.4 4 cyl or 3.0 V6? Auto or manual? There are a few issues specific to the trim level. Rather than write a novel, I can make it specific to the options. They are known as the Hardbody (D21) same running gear as the same model year Pathfinders, 1 year overlap iirc.

[Nightpath]

I'm going to go ahead and say automatic V6.

[TRUXterra]

Confirm it to be sure. V6 has a timing belt so verify if it has been changed (150k km intervals). Rear cab corners & rockers rust very quickly. The frame cross members where the fuel tank mounts are also know to rust quickly. Running gear is solid and rarely causes major concerns. The most common issue/problem is in the 92-96 Hardbody/Frontier/Pathfinders with a 5 spd. The fill hole was drilled too low and the Nissan work around/solution is to add an additional liter of fluid through the shifter base.

I'll get some more details when I get home, I haven't signed to that Nissan forum in a long, long time...

[Nightpath]

Finally got some details. 1994,v6 standard. Timing Lt, water pump and a few more things changed the past couple of years. Says the speedometer/odometer stopped working at 135000km about 2-3 years ago and it probably has closer to 200k on it now. Barely any rust, a few small dents.

[89jeep2]

the v6 with a standard depending on options has 4:63 gears.lots of power on the road but is thirsty.drivetrain is solid.rear axle has31spline 3rd member.can or could get up to a 5:14 gears.body is solid but frame is boxed so whatever gets in stays in.spray it out and undercoat it.not sure who makes lifts for them anymore.trailmaster offered a 4" lift.rancho had 2.5".4"of sus w3"body will allow you to run a 35"tire.hope this helps

[Nightpath]

Anything helps, I appreciate it. When I see it I'm going to let my trusty rubber mallet pay a visit to some area ;)

The clutch was replaced too, which is nice. What's not nice is that I'm looking at surgery for hernia on September 6th lol.

It has IFS doesn't it?

[TomWood]

Yes it would be IFS in the front.

[autumnwalker]

When I see it I'm going to let my trusty rubber mallet pay a visit to some area ;)

Use a screwdriver if you want to find weak metal.

[doms]

I had a 2wd 4cly auto and it was a solider. Transmission went at 360K and the engine just shy of 400K. The engine probably would have lasted longer but I tried (for the 1st and last time) one of those engine fix in a can things and it turned the oil to toothpaste. I had some trouble with u-joints and drive shafts but I'm guessing that had more to do with my driving style than anything else (the rear wheel cylinders seized allowing for easy burnouts). It was rust that killed it in the end though. It was one of those vehicles that went from barely any rust to barely any metal in no time.

[Nightpath]

So body/frame wise I make sure there's none of the typical vehicle rot as well as the crossmember that the gas tank sits on. Check the body for rot because it's boxed in.

With the engine I make sure the timing belt's been changed (which he says it has been) along with a new water pump and clutch. Take it for the usual drive to make sure it shifts decent.

Any other oddities to watch out for?

[TRUXterra]

Not really, the Hardbody's are known to be solid. Search Google to confirm (sure you already have).

Only thing I'll add, which is not vehicle specific, is to find a hill at low speed, change the gear to 4th/5th and floor it! If the engine revs, the clutch/flywheel is shot. If it struggles to pull, drop the clutch and grab a lower gear or 2 and continue your test drive!

[TRUXterra]

Regarding the manual transmission fill plug issue, you can listen for signs if there is a problem that has not been addresses. If that Hardbody has the fill plug in the lower location and was not addressed, the transmission will whine in all gears EXCEPT for 4th. The whine to listen for will sound like being the reverse gear and you can't miss it.

You will not hear the noise in 4th as when you are in that gear there is additional pressure on that bearing and the noise goes away. FWIW, Nissan dropped the price on replacement trannys for that model to under $1k NEW as a result. I had to replace mine in my 96 Pathfinder.