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Guest yotaman

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Thanks man, it's comming together pretty good now with the new shocks i'm only waiting on the drive shaft and i'll be good to go.

Right now i think i'm just going to get a some v6 4.56 thirds or 4.88's if i can find any and run them for a while and put all my cash into dual t-cases grin.gif. The overall difference 5.29's would make in my crawl ratio doesn't change much between 4.56's and 5.29's but with duals i figure 92-1 is low enough....until 4.7's drop in price. wink.gif I'll probally keep it open in the front for bit since 30 splines are a long way a way plus you havn't had good luck with your front end being locked. lipsrsealed.gif

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Such a sweet looking toy. I'm not a fan of flat beds but yours is cool. I wish my truck wasn't busted up, I'd like to go wheeling with ya and take a closer look at it.
Why bother with the baby step of the 4.56s? That's what I have in my truck, and it's barely adequate with 33s and the V6. The doubler is going to solve the problem off road, but it won't get much on road drivability back.
And 4.56 V6 carriers are rare! They only came in trucks with factory 31s and manual trans. Getting V6 thirds would be a good upgrade but it would probably be easier (and cheaper) to find 2 in any ratio and re-gear them to what you want.
Or just screw gears and doublers and go dual trannies grin.gif Got wheelbase?!

Paul

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Yeah, dual trannies might be a little long on your rig. But look at the poor jeep guys, even stock their driveshafts are shorther than a gnat's doin's, god forbid they run dual x-fers! And where your rig sits nice and low, the length and angle of the shafts might not be that bad.
FYI, as far as I know, since the 4cyl trannies are 21 spline in and out, you would use a factory trans/x-fer coupler to mate the 2 trannies. But why re-invent the wheel when doublers are tried, tested and true. You're lucky with the 4cyl, one adapter and another t-case and your done. To set up a V6 its a mess of adapters for about $1500! That's why I decided to re-invent the wheel with my truck rolleyes.gif
I do have the 4.56 third from my old rear end, but I need the gearset to re-gear the e-locker I have for the front, once the solid axle goes in. So best I could offer is a bare housing.
However, you're welcome to my whole 4.56 IFS setup grin.gif

Paul

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LOL, dual trannies would be sick but i think it would be too long for a single cab. Plus i'm 100% sure on making a coupler for the inputs.
As for the gears...i don't think it'll be too hard to find a set of 4.56 v6 thirds but i might have to look outside the province that's alright though. Don't you have a 4.56 third outta your rear when you swapped in the e-locker?

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Chris: i've been talking to a few people that have ordered a adapter from Marlin and it comes to ~ 480 once all is said and done. But i'm also considering ordering the crawl box (adapter + front case) used if i can find someone that will separate it. rolleyes.gif

Burkee: On futher searching there are lots of 4.88 v6 3rd's for sale on car-part for 200US plus which isn't that bad so i'm thinking on going that way. Oh and i'm not too lucky with a 22-re since mine has the nutsty G58 trans with chain t-case embarassed.giftongue.gif So i will have to swap in a w56 when i go duals which will bump the cost a bit. I wonder if i can keep the same bellhousing so i don't have to f**k with the clutch??

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Seems like the 4.88s would be the way to go. If in the future you ever want to go higher, you'll already have the stronger V6 thirds too.
I didn't know any of the 4cyls came with the chain case. I wonder if a w56 transfer adapter would bolt up behind the G58. Then you could keep the 23 spline output. Either way, maybe I'll buy your old chain case to help offset your costs, I'm thinking I may be grenading a few of them if I get the dual trannies to work grin.gif

I didn't know there was a Marlin distributer in Canada, do you have any contact info Johnny?

Paul

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Quote:
i have marlins dual case adapter and love it. ordered mine through extreme bends in bc. its in my 87 runner with 4.88's


i'd like to know how you paid shipped to your door. I'm probally going to call Marlin on Monday and place an order but if Extreme bends is cheaper then i'd be all over it.
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Quote:
the dual cases r nice first time i dropped in double low i thought the clutch was slipping. just wondering what u guys thinki have 4.88s now but just picked up an elocker now and it has 4.30's so i have to regear but not going to tear down my 3rds one just rebuilt and the other has my lockright installed , so i like to switch to 35's from my 33 swampers wondering if i should just buy a set of 5.29 thirds or another 4.88????


You should re-gear and sell me the 4.88's for a good price grin.gif







I guess it's up to you...just get some 35's and try it out. You must have some slow crawl speed with 100 - 1 and 33's cool.gif
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if u go on the marlin site and look for distributors there is 2 in canada EB and national 4wd or something, tried national no return calls or emails. extreme bends specializes with landcruisers but they order any marlin stuff. steve is who i dealt with great service. i think it was $550 to my post office but that was in the winter when the can dollar was a lot lower. i just figured it was simplier to order through can had it in about a week

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the dual cases r nice first time i dropped in double low i thought the clutch was slipping. just wondering what u guys thinki have 4.88s now but just picked up an elocker now and it has 4.30's so i have to regear but not going to tear down my 3rds one just rebuilt and the other has my lockright installed , so i like to switch to 35's from my 33 swampers wondering if i should just buy a set of 5.29 thirds or another 4.88????

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Well after calling Marlin Crawler i got a price of 349 + 46 for shipping so roughly 400 US or 448.54 CAN. Add about 60-70 for brokerage fees from UPS and tax i'll probally be in around 550 to my door.

Called the other Marlin dealer North Shore offroad but they said they don't deal with Marlin anymore but they offered me the new advanced adapters dual bearing one for 609 plus tax and 30 for shipping. No thanks rolleyes.gif

Today i was talking to a guy Cali that has a brand new AA adapter built and assembled crawl box with shifter and all the gear he'd sell me for 500 US shipped USPS so 580CAN shipped with no brokerage fees grin.gif. I'm thinking that's the best way to go since it's a brand spanker/clean crawl box assembly.....just bolt it to the tranny then t-case to the back side.

I figure just the adapter from anywhere is going to be atleast 550 then i gotta buy a donor top shift t-case (100bucks) take that apart and hope it still works then assemble it with the adapter making sure it's done right. So i'm hopeing to order that crawl box by the end of the week un-less i find a better deal somwhere else.

Oh and had bad luck trying to get my drive shaft shortened. The place want's 300 just to shorten it........they say a spacer needs to be made up in order to cut the yoke and re-weld it. rolleyes.gif So i'm just going to cut it inhalf take out the 3" then sleave the inside with some pipe and weld it back together making sure it's straight. If i bunk it then i guess i'll have to throw down the big bucks and get a good one made.

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  • 2 weeks later...

WOW ya scared me there for a second Matt. I saw the first pic and said oh nuts no rear crossmember. Only thing I can say I would do from those pics is to run another pass from your weld to the tube. I can't hurt as there may be alot of force put on those welds when your tuggin or being tugged. Better to over do it and not worry about it than to see a bumber flying at someone.

Great job either way, specially for a guy who didn't knwo how to weld a year ago. grin.gif

Still can't wait to see her in person, with out control arms falling out from under her.

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Looks cool. I have some concearns about the welding too though...
From the picture of the frame to bumper weld, it looks like your welding down. When your welding vertically on thicker sections, you should weld up with a slight push angle, and use very little weave. This gives better penetration, but it wont look nice. Vertical down is used for sheet, and its prettier, flatter, but less penetration so it wont burn through the thin sheet as easy.

Paul

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I think your right Burkee and so is Liltoy. I think his weld has enough penetration on the frame and tube, but another pass will never hurt.
Oh, by the way... when your weaving, keep the weaves closer together and it will look 100 times better wink.gif

I will have to start working on my Yota too, maybe someday when I have money.

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Right on man i had no idea of the finer points to welding as i just tought myself so to say. It's welded on both sides inside and out so it should be plenty strong but i'm going to be adding supports from the backside of the tube to the inside frame with a plate so there's no chance it can rip off.

Got some more done....i have to make up another backing plate for my tail lights and finish up some welds and i'll be done.


http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e73/toyo420/project%20frame%20hack/sick3.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e73/toyo420/project%20frame%20hack/sick5.jpg

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