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'82 Bullnose


SQRLPWR

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37 minutes ago, autumnwalker said:

Right on @ovrlndr. I feel like this went together very quickly!

I probably could have done it in a weekend if I planned it properly

I'm just waiting on ties rod ends for the drag link - gonna make my own with some 0.25 wall DOM and some weld on threaded bungs I had left over from the Xterra SAS

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I had 2x TRE's bought for the Xterra SAS, but they are a bit too big to ream out on the pitman end on the F150;

KES2027L

KES2026R

Both new GM 1 ton TRE's - maybe I can trade them for a bit of welding 😉

http://extremecustomparts.com/c-69066-steering-parts-tie-rod-drag-link-kits-tie-rods-reamers-7-8-18-taps-nuts-adapters-d-o-m-tubing-tie-rod-ends-gm-1-ton.html

 

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Decided to swap out the yolk instead of trying to get a combination ujoint.

Weirdly, the installed axle yolk is smaller than my other 2x.

Got the trackbar on and tried out some fitment combinations. The trackbar on these has a bend, so depending on which way up it goes, puts the end in a different spot.

One way clears the crossmember but puts the end too far towards the coils. The other way puts the end near where it should be, but I'll need to clearance the crossmember....most folks do that. Of course I'll need to move the power steering pipe too.

Also I'll need to get the BFH out to clearance my exhaust as it's touching the driveshaft.imageproxy.php?img=&key=ab7b5b39dce2234d

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Track bar bracket is on and braced to the engine crossmember. I'll add some gussets to the mount later.

It's bolted on for now and will be fully welded in place later.

Brakes are installed,  just need bleeding.

Reamed out the hole for the 1 ton tie rod ready for the drag link to be welded up.

 

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44 minutes ago, sar4x4 said:

Is it / can it be gusseted more?

And really to the point, does it clear or interfere with the axle, upon full 'stuff'?

No concerns over interference,  just strength. 

I have another stronger option to flip the track bar so the bend in the track bar puts the eye behind the coil, but i wont be able to have as much drop on the mount, so the angles wont be as good for bump steer

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So, I've decided to make an 'inner' track bar bracket that will bolt in, and tie to the frame and the cross member. I think it'll be stronger than the long-style track bar mount. I picked up some 3/8 plate and 2.5x2.5 1/4 inch angle so I can start mocking it up.

I also bought a new gun for my crappy welder because my liner was making the wire stick....I can actually tack some of this together before getting a big welder on it 🙂

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On 2/10/2020 at 4:37 PM, autumnwalker said:

That is some drop on the pitman arm! Or are the photos misleading?

no you're right, it had a 6" RC lift, and the pitman arm drop is as crazy as it looks. So I'll just get one that's not as severe from the junk yard, which will help with aligning the drag link with the track bar

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2 hours ago, autumnwalker said:

I'm stoked to have a SFA rig now though ... look out rocks!

If I was to purchase a brand new rig to off-road, I really like the specs of the Gladiator 'Mojave' Edition.  Instead of 'Trail Rated', it's 'Desert Rated'.

('Mojave' was also a decal/trim package on Toyotas, back in the early '80s'!)

Read as 'Go fast', in direct contrast to the Rubicon package.  Which is a Rock crawling package.

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The Mojave has some interesting features vs. the Rubicon and the non-Rubicon ... it's sort of a mashup rig.

  • Fox 2.5 w/ external bypass shocks, bigger springs
  • Hydraulic bump stops
  • Reinforced frame and axles (even over Rubi!)
  • One inch lift (i.e. leveling kit)
  • Bigger track bars
  • D44 in the front with cast iron knuckles (vs. cast aluminum), but no locker
  • 4:10 gearing
  • 2.72 transfer case (standard Sport / Sahara box)

Whereas the Rubicon would have

  • lockers front and rear
  • "standard" Wrangler frame (less reinforcement)
  • thinner axle tubes on the D44's
  • 4:1 transfer case
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Straightened up my track bar with my pipe bender so the frame side eye is 90 degrees to the track bar bracket (it was slightly off)

Mocked up track bar bracket #2 from 3/8"  - just needs a 220v machine to weld it up. Then bit more trimming to get the length down a little, a few bolts and it'll bolt up to the frame and cross member.

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Got a standard pitman arm and steering box today. I got a box because every pitman arm i tried to remove was bending my (beefy) remover...but the arm and box was only $25, so no biggie. The standard pitman arm will help alignment with the track bar.

Track bar mount has been triple welded up, thanks for the outstanding welding job Paul 🙂

Removed the old steering box and snapped bolt. The bolt through the frame took some removing.

Drilled out a steering box/crossmember rivet so I can have 3 bolts on the frame side track bar mount.

Just some hole drilling left and the mount will be on. It'll need some trimming because I left a LOT of meat on it.

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