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89 Runner Build


89runner

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The battery also needed to move to the drivers side as the intake is on the passenger side for the engine. I wanted to upgrade my battery since my old one was dumping acid on the inner fender. I went with a group 24 eliminator AGM and built a battery tray to fit. To put it where I wanted it without inferring with the coolant reservoir and headlight I modified the inner fender some more. I gave the inner fenders a coat or two of tremclad for good measure. 

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In an effort to keep heat out of the cabin and not melt things under the hood I wrapped the exhaust crossover. The factory heat shield was in great shape but no longer fit. I also applied heat shielding to the firewall to keep heat out of the cabin. I used some hook/loop closure shielding on the park brake cable and speedo cable that would be about an inch from the crossover pipe. I installed a new clutch master, pilot bearing, throwout bearing and reinstalled the flywheel and clutch with new hardware for the flywheel. The engine was then dropped back into the truck where I hope to keep it moving forward. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I had to tear the dash apart to swap out my heater core, a long overdue task, and run a wire to my combo meter for the tach. Going from a coil and distributor to my current setup I also had to solder a 10k ohm resister in the tach to adjust the signal. I will still have to fine tune it with the pot on the back once I have it running. I even got my heater zone controls working on the dash control. Fellow Toyota owners will know how rare this is haha. 

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Mounting the airbox required removing one of three mounts and heating and bending another to fit. Two didn’t hold it well enough so I added another to the inner fender well. I finished it off by cutting a large hole through the inner fender for it to draw air. 

I also decided to use an oe style fuel filter by making a mount for it on the inner fender. It used to be right on the block of the 4cylinder. I mated up the flex line for the v6 by cutting the hose and adding a properly sized banjo fitting. The nutsert tool I picked up for this build has made mounting these things a lot easier. 

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I wanted to clean up some of my electrical and leave room for future accessories. I picked up a Bluesea aux fuse panel that has 6 constant circuits and 6 switched circuits capable of 100amp. I used 4gauge wire, proper fine strand copper wire, to hook up the panel on the opposite side of the engine bay. I set up 3 circuit breakers next to the battery, 1 for the alternator to the battery to eliminate the unfused run across the engine bay and back, 1 for the factory fuse box supply eliminating a fusible wire and 1 for the aux panel. All 3 are dust and water proof cooper bussmann units with manual reset.  I tied into power and ground with new “military” style battery terminals and they are the nicest I’ve ever used. They have a bolt to connect all the cables and have a proper taper so they fit awesome. They also came with quality boots. 

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During a couple evenings this week I got the exhaust routed and half welded. I bought 4 ft of new pipe, a magnaflow catalytic converter, a flex coupler and a couple oxygen sensor bungs. I reused the original downpipe and hacked up the donor vehicle tail pipe to make it exit on the proper side of my truck. I also put a flange in just ahead of the muffler so I can easily take the whole system out of truck without much hassle in the future.  

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My cooling fan actually came early from Amazon which means I should be able to get it installed this weekend. It is the universal flex-a-lite 160 kit. It came with everything except “model specific” mounts. The kit specific for my truck would have been double what this cost and this was the only 160 listing at this price so it was a good amazon buy! Oh and the fan is rated to pull or push 3000cfm. I’ll have to be careful it doesn’t suck any wildlife through my radiator. 

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My engine to body harness I made was way too long so I took about 1.5ft of wire out of most runs. I wasn’t sure where the ECU would end up when I made it but it turns out the stock position is the best place. There is still a little cleanup to do but now everything tucks into the kick panel. I’m leaving it spread out for first startup so I can quickly spot/check for problems. 

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The coolant system is now complete. The last piece of the puzzle was the inline temperature gauge pickup housing. It came as a 1/8”NPT and was drilled and taped for 3/8”NPT to fit my mechanical gauge. I’m not sure if my temperature gauge in the dash is dead or if it was a sending unit on my old engine. This way I can be sure not to overheat my new engine. 

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I got tired of waiting for my second O2 flange to come in and I’m pretty sure it won’t be coming in any time soon now so I just made one so I could finish up my exhaust. I finished welding up the front half of the exhaust and put it back in the truck. I hooked up the O2 sensors and cleaned up the wiring harness to wrap things up on the exhaust. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I picked up my driveshafts last night after a quick turn around from a dam good machinist. Tonight I painted them and put the rear in the truck. I was also able to adjust my tachometer because my new cheapie amazon obd2 reader came that gives me real time readouts. The wheels were all torqued, seats installed and clutch system bled. I am hoping to take it for a test drive tomorrow!

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So the test drive happened last night once I got home from work but not all went as planned. I had what sounded like a valve tick when I first started the engine a couple days back which annoyed me but I didn’t think it was a show stopper. By the end of my 7km test drive the noise had gotten worse. I was sickened by the noise so I left it for the night. Today I put a socket on the main pulley and turned it over and could here a definite clunk so I started disassembly. When I got the timing cover off I noticed metal filings stuck to the cam sensor. The pictures show what I found. Since the noise existed since first start I’m blaming poor assembly by myself. I recall it being a bit of a fight getting that pulley on as it was last going on with the timing belt. 

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Luckily I had a spare cam pulley. I reassembled and the noise is completely gone, no tick, nothing. The only noises to be heard in the driving video are the truck itself shaking because my krawlers are no longer round from sitting for the last couple months. They flat spot and I need to put more than 10km on them to get them round “ish” again but this test drive was a success!

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