Jump to content
  • Welcome, Guest!

    Welcome to Backcountry 4x4's online community! Consider creating a free account to take part in our discussions, share photos / videos, and start "web wheeling" with us!

89 Runner Build


89runner

Recommended Posts

Front axle received a full rebuild, truss, knuckle gussets, diff armor, hi-steer and new perches to accomodate pinion pointing at t-case output. Knuckle ball welds were cut and rotated to maintain factory caster. Differential was regeared to 5.29 so my little 4cyl could turn the 35” tires. 

FC870E48-A08D-4E6F-9444-64AEBFF18AC2.jpeg

DE46345E-5F13-433C-970E-F28B2793AD6D.jpeg

BDD6A5D6-7CF1-4FCE-9DB7-E576980E2FE1.jpeg

87FDAC3B-B02D-4A7C-949B-07D58015D30B.jpeg

F14328F2-F498-4383-A60A-A35A21FF8743.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rear axle got a full rebuild as well. New backing plates, all new bearings, diff armor, spring perches, rear geared to match the front and a lockrite locker. I even added new park brake hardware so I would have a functional park brake for more than a couple weeks. The rear pinion was also pointed at the t case as the drive line was too long and the wheel base too short. A machinist friend helped to build a custom set of driveshafts, both with double cardan joints at the t-case. 

71574FFD-E874-4443-AF87-E2D51D996755.jpeg

E239F483-1B54-45C9-9431-24A7FF4D0A5D.jpeg

030B4DD3-C941-4A01-82DD-B34A68CB447A.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, sar4x4 said:

Will you need to add a new, higher, fill hole in the diff?  The factory one might be more of a drain! lol

I was in such a rush when I was building that I overlooked adding a proper fill point. Until i have to pull the third again I just park on a steep bank to finish filling. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

59 minutes ago, autumnwalker said:

This build is excellent! I enjoy watching the progress. So much work put into this truck.

I could have saved a lot of time if I started with a decent frame but I didn’t have the time or cash for one from the states so I just worked with what I had.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a piece of 3/8” plate bent for my crossmember/belly pan. It tucked the driveline up a bit and with the longer trans/tcase combo I had to modify the crossmember a bit to clear the rear driveshaft. I went with all through bolts on the new crossmember mounts as I would rather be able to just cut bolts off if they seize. 

EBCB4B30-901D-47B3-ACE3-4831DA072765.jpeg

801F0CB4-47CA-4A86-B47E-79795EB7D7FF.jpeg

E28DC7B5-28FD-457C-8983-1B1740B82F5F.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My replacment body had seen some abuse and there was mud caked on everywhere on the underside so I gave it a good pressure washing. The tunnel was already modifed as there was a v8 in it at one point in its life. If only back to the future had a hovering 4runner!

8AE27483-5A67-4A26-90EF-F7067B625DCD.jpeg

5D2D079E-B12E-450E-B879-E1506604965C.jpeg

56146D49-40BD-4A52-9694-056505612C59.jpeg

C36DDFD5-01A3-437C-9133-A4D47755A012.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The tan paint was easy to sand off since the previous owner did a rattle can paint job without prepping. I replaced the rotten bits and tried to knock out some of the bigger dents. The rocker panel, a and b pillars and roof were pressed in quite a bit on the drivers side. The rocker came back pretty easy with a big hammer from the back. The other areas were hard to get at due to multiple lays of steel so I didn’t get fussy as I was leaving the other character marks on the body. I also had to shim the door hinges with 1/4” plate to line the doors up to since the sheet metal behind the hinges had been pushed in. This body had to have been on its side if not its roof before I got it.

58710C58-87F0-4854-A447-0B518FA4BC60.jpeg

69264919-A27D-497D-95B5-477CC677D71D.jpeg

92626B27-47C7-484B-9383-8B3B29C5D7EB.jpeg

82201184-972E-4B11-A674-5644C8FBA5D5.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once the body work was done I landed the body on the frame to make sure everything lined up since the frame work had been extensive and all body mounts were either cut off and replaced or rebuilt. The body also came off a pretty twisted truck but everything lined up and I only had to make 4 plastic spacers up for front and rear corners. 

1E0EA00E-4B72-4DC1-A34A-FFA8B75BE01F.jpeg

9CEB671A-8147-4225-9430-6C2DBCF05C4B.jpeg

6FA59844-AB6D-49DB-98BA-9CDB76C289D4.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The shop wasn’t big enough to paint the truck with all the panels off so I completed it in two stages. The body was first then all the panels second. I used a Ful-poxy primer, then rocker guard and Ful-thane single stage paint. I went from primer to paint in the same day as I wasn’t sanding anything knowing this was a budget paint job that would be scratched up anyways. I kept the floor wet and the doors cracked. 

2A79253E-EC06-47AD-8404-8D5D86340E36.jpeg

3108D7A4-E532-4C75-8C4D-AFC32B433876.jpeg

DD4D60A8-4AA0-41D6-815E-258987E53F99.jpeg

54B3B194-9BF0-4DA9-82EE-91E0B4FC77BE.jpeg

CE3D39D4-3DB8-4EC7-8F51-400FD7387E61.jpeg

02F450B2-0735-4BDC-9672-4E3A4A2132A3.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before I even got to paint the other panels I geared the truck up so I could drive it around the yard. I kept the harness,computer and injectors that came with the 86 body and it fired up without hesitation. The engine was the only thing that wasn’t taken apart in this rebuild. 

24520993-2F74-483B-8FA1-9409130234E5.jpeg

484F50AF-1D88-4737-9253-452B1F0DC531.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...