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Cutting body lift pucks


derekmac

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So, I want to put a BL in my Jeep.  Looking on Amazon, there's a 1" Daystar one that replaces all the factory mounts, a 1.25" JKS that's just lift blocks, and a 3" Rugged Ridge one.  The Daystar and JKS are the height I want, but are in the $200 range.  The Rugged Ridge one is only $90, which has me wondering if it would be worth it to buy that one, and cut the pucks in half, and buy the proper length bolts (or cut and thread the ones that come with it)?  I guess I could always sell the other half of the spacers too.  I already have a motor mount lift that I'll also be installing.

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Is the RR one aluminum or poly?  I might be hesitant to cut the poly.  For me, I can usually spare the ~$150 bucks and have an engineered and good looking product.  (Remember it has to go through inspection!) And right now my spare time is working on the house.  Buying new bolts, I tend to use Grade 8, though you shouldn't need that strength, costs a few $.  Can you thread Grade 8 easily with a home threading kit?  I tried one time without much luck.  It was more efficient (time/$) to buy what I needed.

 

You asked! Just some thoughts!

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Good thoughts, and I actually do agree with getting the proper kit in the first place.  The Daystar replaces the 12 year old factory mounts too, which is an added bonus.  I'm always looking for a way to save a buck though, so I had to ask. :)  The RR ones are poly.

 

I've done grade 5 bolts, but have never tried grade 8.  I think the body mount bolts 8.8's, so equal to grade 5.

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Buy the kit you want that is specific for your vehicle. It will have everything you need to do the install in your driveway. That's my advice.

 

I still have a 2" lift in my basement for my Xterra; it came with relocation brackets for the rad & power steering box, also longer hoses to connect multiple parts required for the lift. Not to mention a step by step set of instructions.

 

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