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flibby

rear brake proportioning valve

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Guys, the proportioning valve is in rough shape on my truck, still works but the hard line coming out to feed the drums is broke. My worry is that the fittings are so corroded that I may not be able to get them out with out damaging it. I was hoping to be able to find one for a half decent price ($386 at the dealer)?

 

Anyone aware of any parted out Tacoma's???

 

 

pv.JPG

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The prop valves are pretty tough, IV never not had a fitting come out of prop valve, the line and fitting fused as one, id just use vice grips on it and come right on to er, presoak a bit before with some type of penetrant won't hurt either.

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well I was able to get the old line out using some heat, lots of sweat, and a few well timed curse words, so I'm good to go.

 

I don't really need the thing as I never plan on carry a load or towing a trailer, however to delete the thing would require me to come up with a way of connecting the lines which seems easy enough but I can guarantee would be a royal pain in the *** :)  

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36 minutes ago, flibby said:

well I was able to get the old line out using some heat, lots of sweat, and a few well timed curse words, so I'm good to go.

 

I don't really need the thing as I never plan on carry a load or towing a trailer, however to delete the thing would require me to come up with a way of connecting the lines which seems easy enough but I can guarantee would be a royal pain in the *** :)  

You do need it, if ever in a panic stop, it would be just like grabbing the park brake, the a$$ end would pass you very quickly and out of control. 

 

What it does is to allow 80-90 % of the braking to be done in the front and regulates line pressure to the rear, and with weight transfer to the front , braking power is reduced in the rear.

 towing a trailer or cargo is when it would be less needed as weight transfer is less with more weight on the rear axle giving more braking power to the ground.

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I've got a manual one on the shelf for when I add the rear disc brakes,  they use a different volume of fluid than the factory drums.

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1 hour ago, Powerram said:

You do need it, if ever in a panic stop, it would be just like grabbing the park brake, the a$$ end would pass you very quickly and out of control. 

 

What it does is to allow 80-90 % of the braking to be done in the front and regulates line pressure to the rear, and with weight transfer to the front , braking power is reduced in the rear.

 towing a trailer or cargo is when it would be less needed as weight transfer is less with more weight on the rear axle giving more braking power to the ground.

 

good to know, but the rod that connects it to the rear end has been broken for years by the looks of it so it was never working the way it should anyway.

 

It will stay in place and should work just as good as it did before, very seldom have the truck on the highway and I drive like an old man most of the time anyway.

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I didn't see this thread till just now. pm me truck specs (year, model, engine size) and I'll see what I can dig up tomorrow.

 

also, Summit racing sells a generic one for pretty cheap. I'll look up the part number later.

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7 hours ago, sar4x4 said:

I've got a manual one on the shelf for when I add the rear disc brakes,  they use a different volume of fluid than the factory drums.

Yes, and also the pressure difference from pedal to clamping force exerted on the rotors will be different too.

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Way cheaper than OEM and probably better: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wil-260-8419/overview/

 

 

33 minutes ago, Powerram said:

Yes, and also the pressure difference from pedal to clamping force exerted on the rotors will be different too.

 

 

I have no lspv on my 82 Toyota and a 1" bore master cylinder that was rolling 33" tires and I never noticed a difference. I have one that I will be removing from my 84 that you're welcome to if you want but you gotta come and get it.

 

 

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12 hours ago, flibby said:

 

good to know, but the rod that connects it to the rear end has been broken for years by the looks of it so it was never working the way it should anyway.

 

It will stay in place and should work just as good as it did before, very seldom have the truck on the highway and I drive like an old man most of the time anyway.

 

That's what I was wonderin' when I asked.  Work great new and when loaded and unloaded at speed.  But if it has been broken for years, and ya brake easy, well I guess ya never noticed the difference anyway!

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10 hours ago, 82Yota said:

Way cheaper than OEM and probably better: https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wil-260-8419/overview/

 

 

 

 

I have no lspv on my 82 Toyota and a 1" bore master cylinder that was rolling 33" tires and I never noticed a difference. I have one that I will be removing from my 84 that you're welcome to if you want but you gotta come and get it.

 

 

 

i should be good for the valve, however I had a piece of hard line made yesterday but I cannot get it to stop leaking where it enters the flex line.

 

Not certain if buddy may have messed up the flair he put on it or it the flex line is the issue, gonna try another piece of hard line today (cheap enough) and see what happens. If I cannot get it to stop leaking i'll no doubt have to replace the flex line which is 75 bucks at the dealer unless a parts place has it cheaper.

 

 

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8 minutes ago, flibby said:

 

i should be good for the valve, however I had a piece of hard line made yesterday but I cannot get it to stop leaking where it enters the flex line.

 

Not certain if buddy may have messed up the flair he put on it or it the flex line is the issue, gonna try another piece of hard line today (cheap enough) and see what happens. If I cannot get it to stop leaking i'll no doubt have to replace the flex line which is 75 bucks at the dealer unless a parts place has it cheaper.

 

 

 

My price would be cheaper almost guaranteed.  I'd need a part number though. So if it comes to that get at me

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solved, the new fitting did not have a shoulder like the old one, broke the flair off the line when I tightened it, heading out now to get the right fitting and new line made, flex line is fine.

 

I'll keep ya in mind if I need anything in the future Yota.

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