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Well after a day of messing and research, I've had partial success.

Seems these rigs have a separate left and right light circuits, so a standard trailer adapter won't work properly.

There's no rear hazards, and brake + turn makes the turns flash at double speed (can be fixed with a resistor mod)

It's in, and will do temporarily.


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Front lights are fixed and 100% working thanks to some ol'school troubleshooting by Dave. Seems the fuse box on this thing has some corrosion and the dim bulb was just a bad fuse connection.

Horn is also working...tore the none standard steering wheel apart, to find it had a bad fuse connection too. Just need a 3 inch button for the steering wheel. Or find another steering wheel.

Got the old flex lines removed.

Note to self, DO NOT go in the garage straight from waking up in the morning.....I had some heat on the brake line fitting and exploded the end right off!! THAT woke me up! LOL

Luckily the yellow one had a good flex line to donate :)

Started installing the rear lights.


..a productive night




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Good to hear!

lol  Well if it's a not a bad ground then it's bad power 'in'.  You need an unimpeded circuit!

I had to take the fuse box / where it goes through the fire wall, of the Scout apart and clean every connection.  Only one connection was bad that I know of that led me there, poor power outut like your headlight, but of course I cleaned them all!

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2 hours ago, jay said:

I forget it's 31 years old LOL


Yeah!  Old wiring.,.  Crud.  My '84 Suburban electrics have always been exceptionally good.  The '79 Scout took some repairing but wasn't tooooooo bad overall. My brother's '76 Dodge was very bad.  Melted fuse connections (poor factory design), bare wires (previous owners), etc.  The Power Wagon also has a factory dash Ammeter.  As does the Scout.  These were pre-voltmeters and are a very issue-prone design when they get old!  It runs ALL Alternator-to-battery power through the dash..........Also the headlight switches in all three vehicles I mention run full headlight power through them. (As almost all North American vehicles did). Also prone to issues when they get old. Like ignite and/or melt...... I've installed headlight relays in the Burb.  The Scout in the future.......


For crinkly old North American stuff you can buy replacement harnesses.  (GM fuse box design usually)  You could use a Universal harness for your Sami!


If I were to start another old vehicle, I would start by replacing the wiring from Day 1.  And you can get the harness with extra switches/fuse etc for all your extra lights and accessories.

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Once I'd got down to the factory wiring, it really doesn't look too bad at all, other than where dirt has got to it. The main concern is the fuse box terminals, and all the fuses are corroded. I'll buy a full replacement set and spares,

A universal one is a great idea too!

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Rear shock mounts made and Eugene's donated shocks installed....thank you sir! (I need smaller washers). Looking at it, I think I should have put the pin longways....that's what happens when ur in a rush LOL.  I'm gonna have to change that!

Made my 1st mod - a little bracket for my HF antenna. It's in a sub-optimal location, but I like to see it to make sure it doesn't come off - I don't think they're made for wheeling LOL





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HF radio is in - I don't normally like to screw into the dash, but this had holes in it already.

CB is re-wired and working.

Clear water flushed from the system and fresh antifreeze is in.

Engine run up to temp for the 1st time - I need to do some idle mixture tweaking at some point.

Tidied up the rear shock mounts. Removed the washer and cut the excess off. They don't look half as bad now. Removed a ton of mud from behind the boots :)

Replaced all the corroded fuses for new, and put in correct values (OCD, I know LOL)

Steering wheel put back together.




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Pads were the right ones this time ...for '95 Sami, not '85. Theyre in and the brakes are bled and working.

Went for a test drive and only got half a km away and she died...no fuel in the clear filter before the carb. Waited a few minutes and it filled up enough to go a couple of Meters, then empty.

I finally get home and swapped out the pump. Went for a test drive. Same deal.

Gets home, swaps the pump for #3....and repeat LOL.

Today I put the original pump on. Removed all the filters and regulator...and the same...just a little fuel in the filter, but idles fine.

Took the carb apart to check...no better.

Weirdly, it runs and idles forever. But as soon as you drive it, it dies after a minute.

Discovered one the fuel flex lines was rotten and had bunched up inside. Also rubber fragments in the carb bowl.

Bought 10ft new flex line and I've got good fuel supply now.

Now it's overfueling with all the changes I made.

Will spend tomorrow morning fine tuning and take it for its test drive.

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Fuel delivery issues 99% resolved! Took it for a ride down to Chads and back....no breakdowns :):):)

It's still got a lil' pop and splutter here and there when it's warm, but I've not even looked at the timing or mixture yet.

Brakes are a 2-pumper - there's no leaks, so I'm hoping more bleeding is required since I emptied all brake lines.

Next - transfer case to e-brake oil seal ;)

Oh, and this thing is a figgin wild, raw and totally back to basics ride!! I love it :)




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Thank you sir! It's what I was looking for, and is gonna get a lot of love.

One thing I might change IF I can find the parts, is the welded up rear.....we'll just see how long the tires last LOL

Thinking about it....I wonder if the spider gears in the yellow one would work...hmmmm

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