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I had a miserable time on the club run with exhaust fumes and noise all day, and a sore back to boot...so it just tipped me over the edge and I was feeling beaten up and just fed up with wheeling.

#1 priority now is strip out the fence post exhaust and install the nice solid spare downpipe. Put a quieter muffler on it and run new pipe.

Im gonna find me some comfy more supportive leather bucket seats too.

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Decided to do a SPOA flip to raise the rig up and move the rear axle and tires away from the body.

Hopefully it wont be too tall! If it is, I'll just have to lower the body mounts.

...maybe leave it there for that Ford Torino stance😆😄😅

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40 minutes ago, derekmac said:

I'm not sure what'll fit, but I know guys that have swapped Hyundai Tiburon seats into TJ's love them.

Thanks Derek. Width is tight, but I've also heard of Zuks with those Tiburon seats installed too.

The first time I was looking, I 'thought' I needed at least 1 seat that would move forward and tilt to gain access to the rear - hence the Accent seats. But it turns out nobody wants to get back there, and I don't blame them, so my options now are wide open :)

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Rear is complete and I'm really pleased with the height as it's not crazy tall, and the 33" tires look like they belong now 😁
BTW its not THAT tall - the Zuk is on axle stands 😉
I reused the rear shock mounts, so I'm pretty sure I'll need to get some junk yard mounts to move the shock down.
Had to order some 2007 Tacoma brake lines as the OEM flex lines are 2 inches away from the axle without flex!😆
Removed the front axle and added the drivers perch whilst I wait for rear brake lines to come in.
All that's left is the passenger side perch which needed some mods to the spring perch due to it being tapered.
Then brakes, a bit of paint and whatever post install fixes need to be done.



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The SPOA lift has brought the front driveshaft to within a hair of the transmission mount at rest.

The transmission mount also incorporates the tcase mount as a single crossmember. After the tcase mount, it crosses under the driveshaft for the transmission mount and over to the other side. So it looks like I can cut the existing crossmember so it's just leaves the tcase mount, then relocate the transmission mount with an new crossmember above and behind the driveshaft.

So, here's the new mount.




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Got the brake lines done and took it out for its first test run. I've picked up a bad drive-line vibration, most likely in the rear. I have the driveshaft in backwards, but the vibe is most likely bad pinion angle or the slip is over extended.

Oh, and Lewis blew up another driveshaft in the Toyota last night, so that takes priority so I can get him back driving to school and work.



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Looks like the pinion angle in the picture perspective.  You need to check it better though!  In a two U-joint driveshaft set-up the front and year U-joints should be parallel,  usually with the T-case output and pinion shaft both parallel to the ground.  OR, alternatively you need a CV joint.  (Kind of like 3 U-joints in total.) Like is often used in the front shaft.  To tip your pinion down, you can shim it or cut/reweld your perches.  On the rear of the Burb I had to shim the axletube/spring interface after flipping the shackle for lift, which rotated the axle down in the back, putting the pinion up in the front.  She is vibration free!  I was able to buy spring shims (available in different widths and angles, which have a hole in them so the spring bolt goes through them.  And doesn't spin out.)  Safe!

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Dave has a 2 inch spacer for me. So I'll try that plus putting the DS on the right way around.

When I drop the shaft, I'll put my digital angle finder on the outputs to see the difference.

If it's still bad after all that, I'll just cut the perches off and try again :)

I think I'll be good for shackles, as these are a lot beefier than oem...but good to know, thanks :)


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  • 3 weeks later...

After messing with spacers and the old driveshaft, I didn't realize my driveshaft was bent and the spacer I was given didn't have a centering ring, so it was impossible to get it centered.

So I ended up getting an 80's Toyota front double cardan driveshaft, which is exactly the right length, and a whole lot sturdier than the little rusty Suzuki driveshaft.
This meant re-clocking the pinion so it's looking directly at the tcase (1 or 2 degrees down for wrap), re-drill the tcase and pinion flanges to match the Toyota bolt pattern, and take some material out of the flange center locator to allow for the larger Toyota ring.

I'm still not 100% vibe-less, but it's a LOT better now....maybe driveable. I think my issue is the tcase flange as I had to hand grind the flange location hole. ...and my intermediate shaft needs a ujoint, so that wont be helping either.

I wonder if I need to weld up the old Suzuki holes in the flange to re-balance it...thoughts ?

Still chipping away at it.....









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  • 3 weeks later...

So after a prolonged break due to family stuff, I finally got around to looking at this again.

Brett kindly offered to machine the Zuk flanges to properly accommodate the Toy drive shaft.

The pinion is re-clocked and welded 2 degrees below the driveshaft, and so far the vibes are either not there or barely noticeable.

Brakes are shot since I opened up the rear lines, so gotta look at that and a small leak.

Also, need to clearance the front cross member, and maybe look at the drag link / drop pitman arm.

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Loving the SPOA. It seems to ride much nicer now, maybe because the shocks sit a bit higher. I'm not bottoming out the axle on the frame now 🙂 Toy double cardan in the rear works great too.

Late last year the Zuk started to make a clicky clunky noise when steering. I wasn't able to figure out, until last night when it got bad enough to see half inch of movement in one of the rear leaf bushings.

Got some polys on order 🙂



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