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I've decided to keep the Zuk...i just can't bring myself to sell it.  

Started to make a snorkel. I prefer the neat stealthy look without all the exposed pipework. I was looking at something off the shelf, but they have the pipe running down the outside of the fende

keep drinking the Burb-on  - I'll get my coat...

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The alternator took a **** - IDK if it happened before or after a lil winching session when I broke through some ice into pretty deep water.

Alternator was showing variable voltage dependent on RPMS - 11.5 to up to 17 or 18 volts!! Hopefully it didn't cook my battery.

Think the regulator is done in it, so I swapped the alternator.

 

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Having a ton of spares really helps! :)

Just little things like the replacement alternator mounts were wider, so I had to find some way of making the adapter bracket fit...a quick dip into the bucket o'Zuk nuts and bolts, and problem solved :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been having a problem with death wobble since I got the Zuk. Problem was only apparent at low speed, and easily correctable by hitting the gas.

I welded up the double shackle and braced it. It got better. My shimmy shock was blown, so that got replaced....and it got a little better.

I recently swapped the bent tie-rod for one off Chads front axle (old tie rod was touching the 3rd lol) , and added the Mercedes half-hi steer. The death wobble got a lot worse, even tho I put the tracking back the same as it was.

Since then, the death wobble had gotten a lot worse and a lot more frequent, and even more when turning right.

On coffee night Matt suggested I might have it toe'd in too much, so I've been tweaking the toe to bring the tires out.

So far so good, I've not had 1 instance of DW since bringing the wheels out ...thanks Matt! :)

I still get a little steering wobble very occasionally - feels like a bent rim, but I know it isn't as I've had them all spinning in the air - I'm wondering if I've got some weird wear going on on a tire. I'll swap fronts to backs later to see.

 

oh, and took it out for a poser shot :)

 

 

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In the cold weather, the throttle cable has become very sticky....so I lubed it.

Replaced the internal heater valve with an elbow. The valve didn't seem to be faulty, but now this thing kicks out some nice heat :)

Also, ordered before I acquired the TBI, and stuck in customs for 4 weeks - 4K Toyota carb

 

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Engine runs beautifully now. It was using oil, but i put some Lucas in it and it seems to have stopped using oil....it's hard to tell with the low kms it gets...but I'll know for sure after tomorrow's run. I did have the oil light flickering on idle too. 

 

Death wobble is gone since I toed it out. I do get some wobble tho. I think it could be a tire.

 

I also have a diff oil leak at the rear wheel. I changed the seal, but it's still leaking. I think the bearing also needs to be replaced.

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I forgot to mention the overheating lol....

If I go on a long 80 km/h run in cold weather, the temp will very slowly climb and won't stop climbing. If I stop, the temp will come down. It did it since the mud run, so pre winch. It'll be fine all day long when crawling or just driving locally, so something I can live with for now.

IDK if the rad or efan are a little too small or what, but my goal is to swap out the motor and rad with the one from Chad's. That had a larger rad, dual efans and that motor only has 108k on it.

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1 hour ago, jay said:

I actually had to crack the window open today...too hot LOL

How much was a rad ?

 

Ill check Monday and get back to you. What year rad am I looking for? (Being that you have a Frankensami its best that I ask)

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Thanks. 

Youre right, it's a 1985 SJ410 which came with a 1.0 originally, and it's got a 1.6 in it now.

ive read the rad from an SJ413 will work as that was the 1.3 motor. I think all the SJ/Sami rads are physically the same.

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1 hour ago, jay said:

Thanks. 

Youre right, it's a 1985 SJ410 which came with a 1.0 originally, and it's got a 1.6 in it now.

ive read the rad from an SJ413 will work as that was the 1.3 motor. I think all the SJ/Sami rads are physically the same.

 

I'll let ya know. If you can find a bigger rad that will swap in just text me and I'll look for that one too

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  • 2 weeks later...
Noticed a marker light was out. These trailer lights are sealed, but luckily the problem was just a twisted wire that had come off. Got it soldered back up and added a rubber grommet to the sheet metal to help keep the wire from chaffing against bare steel.
 
Notice the genius of these lil' Suzuki's - there are tones of little metal twisty tabs all over the rig to help with keeping wires and in place. So useful - and I've never seen that before on anything else.
 
 
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When to Kennys to take a look at the '$500 Samurai Tin Top' that was up for sale on Facebook - all I took was the clutch and accelerator cable, and the door straps (all for $19 taxes in).

Everything else on it was rusted out junk, trashed or stuff I have multiples of.

 

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I was having some overheating problems....not on idle, but on long fast runs. 
 
When I previously did the electric fan conversion, due to space issues with the e-fan, I was lazy and installed the e-fan in front of the rad instead of behind it. 
 
I think the e-fan shroud was blocking air flow causing the temperature to climb. 
 
So, I picked up a 2005 KIA Spectra radiator fan and installed it. This e-fan/shroud combo fits millimeter-perfect between the SJ410 radiator top and bottom tanks. I had to space out the rad a little for it to fit as it's tight. It also immediately popped the old fan's fuse, so I know it's drawing more air. And it's super quiet too.

Also, installed the new-to-me door straps and replaced a busted up passengers door mirror.
 
 
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You working outside?  Brrrr.  Jay, that radiator needs to be cleaned!  If you have lots of cooing that bitbif dirt won't hurt.  But if your tight for cooling, do yourself a favour and clean the external fins.  Secondly, are any internal tubes blocked?  When the engine is warm, unhook the electric fan power, and place your hand over the entire rad, looking for cold spots....

of course you've already done this....

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You could be right .....sorry for the confusion, but the rad on the floor in the photos is just the spare off the yellow one. I was using it to test  fit. 

I'm fairly sure the problem was the old fan shroud being in front of the rad. The Zuk would idle through the woods all day long and stay within it's temp zone using the fan. If I drive it to coffee night, the temp would very very slowly rise and not stop until the fan caught up.

 

I've yet to test the new setup, so we'll see lol

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Ahh.  I've re-read your post and pics on a large monitor, not my 'smart' phone with its silly tiny screen.

First, I can now clearly see you were in the garage!  Second, I now understand your 'pusher' fan shroud blocking your rad!  (I assume you did wire/mount the fan to push the air through when it was in front of the rad, right?)

The better shroud, larger fan, multi-bladed fan, and fan covering more of the rad should all add up to make a large difference!  If not, you have a coolant flow problem!


Fingers crossed! BTW, nice install!

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I've been playing around with some snorkel ideas.
 
I bought a short Massey Ferguson 35/135/140/148 tractor air pre-cleaner and for filtration, I'll be making a custom air box later.
 
Trying to keep it looking less like plumbing, whilst retaining functionality....the original plan was to route the pipe through the firewall, up the cowl, then run the pipe up the windshield and mount the pre-cleaner up high on top - like in the photo.

 

But I've been playing with the plumbing and I don't think that will work how I would like it with the hood (up) and the hard top locations.

 
So, I think I'll make it short and stubby, routing the pipe through the drivers side firewall, up the cowl, then mount the pre-cleaner on the cowl, securing it with the screw on fitting.
 
It won't give maximum water protection. But, I can keep an eye on the water level and TBH if the water is that far over the hood, I'll probably have other issues to deal with like water in the ignition system.
 
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