Jump to content
  • Welcome, Guest!

    Welcome to Backcountry 4x4's online community! Consider creating a free account to take part in our discussions, share photos / videos, and start "web wheeling" with us!

Recommended Posts

11 hours ago, Jawritch said:

Here's what I got Jay, I put them in the vise and tried flexing the bushings with a long screwdriver through them and got no play. Though there's going to be more leverage with them installed.

 

Free if their any good to you. (After thinking about it I have 3 sets of shackles, one of which you gave to me haha)

 

IMG_20161018_204034.jpgIMG_20161018_204043.jpgIMG_20161018_204049.jpg

Ah yeah they look like they'll work. Thanks!

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

I've decided to keep the Zuk...i just can't bring myself to sell it.  

Started to make a snorkel. I prefer the neat stealthy look without all the exposed pipework. I was looking at something off the shelf, but they have the pipe running down the outside of the fende

keep drinking the Burb-on  - I'll get my coat...

Posted Images

The steering stabilizer was leaking under the boot, so I got that swapped out...just need to test to see if things have improved.

 

Justin kindly gave me a pair of XJ shackles with good bushings from his stock - that's next job, thanks :)

 

Also ordered a pinion master rebuild kit for the rear.

IMG_20161021_145442.jpg

IMG_20161021_145515.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I talked to my neighbor last night, that owns the 'Hot Wheels' Zuk.  He says it's for sale.  But not cheap.  33s, supercharged, etc...

Just sayin'!  Stop over my way sometime and I'll show it to you!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Got one of the XJ shackles swapped out.

I did a laser alignment, which showed it to be toe-ing in slightly. So that got adjusted.

 

Previously the only way to stop the death wobble at low speeds was to air up to 40PSI, which is almost double what is recommended. Even then, I'd get it occasionally from 0 to 20 km/h.

 

Now with the new shock and the replacement shackle, I was able to air down to 25PSI without any death wobble!

Driving over off camber/diagonal rail tracks was no problem :)


Now I'm sure the steering stabilizer is probably still masking something as there's a slight steering wheel shake at all speeds, but that could be tire balancing. So I plan to throw some BB gun beads in there, and put the Zuk on stands to check wheel straightness.

Thing rides like a Cadillac now with the tires at the correct pressure :)

 

And...my test drive was in the pouring rain...I kept dry! :)

 

IMG_20161022_135736.jpg

 

 
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

The early SJ410's came with the parking brake drum setup connected to the output shaft of the transfer case.

You might recall, the Zuk had a leak on the transfer case output shaft which had contaminated the parking brake. The brake shoe was also down to the metal.

After calling around there were no shoes available, so I decided to swap out the early parking brake setup for the later version.

The Zuk came to me with no brakes, and luckily the rear brakes that I previously swapped in were from a later Samurai - they have the parking brake mechanism inside the rear drums.

So I order a set of parking brake cables and started on finishing the swap today.

I quickly discovered the parking brake lever on the early SJ410's is different too. Luckily I still had the parking brake from the yellow one, and it is in decent shape.

 

Soon I had the parking brake lever swapped out and the cable installed. I had to use cable ties to secure the cables as the brackets are missing on the rear axle. Maybe I'll re-make them later.

 

It's so nice to have a parking brake with a manual transmission :)

IMG_20160831_125700.jpg

IMG_20161023_112012.jpg

IMG_20161023_114735.jpg

IMG_20161023_120324.jpg

IMG_20161023_120418.jpg

IMG_20161023_125110.jpg

IMG_20161023_125117.jpg

IMG_20161023_125151.jpg

IMG_20161023_125158.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, it's nice to get this one done. I can't imagine the PITA having no trans park and no park brake was. At least I could leave it in gear :)

 

Rear pinion bearing next on my list as it's got a mm or 2 all direction movement.

Hoping the rebuild kit will come in next week.

 

I'm gonna swap out the gears into the steel housing out of the yellow one whilst I'm at it, as the current housing is an aluminum 3rd out of the front of a Tracker(?)

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, jay said:

I can't imagine the PITA having no trans park and no park brake was. At least I could leave it in gear :)

 

Carried a wheel chock, always parked on a grade so it would roll into the chock, and I didn't have a leash so I could easily retrieve it once in gear.... it was dicey! lol

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 13/10/2016 at 9:19 AM, jay said:

I'm pleased with the result. Leg room is a little cramped for a 6 ft + person because I had to mount the seat a little forward in order to have clearance for a body to get between the folded down / pushed forward seat and the B pillar. But who cares - I can count on one had the number of bums that sit in my passenger seat :)

 

good thing I am short, eh? ;) ... But good luck seeing past Lewis when he's in your passenger seat... :P

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Christmas came early today.

The dashboard in the Zuk has some heat damage, cracks, holes, and is missing the vents.

 

Chad is making a custom dashboard, so he offered me his perfect dash for free!

 

We also swapped door cards - my diamond plate door cards for some original Sami door cards in excellent shape, including all clips fully intact! :)

I know the diamond plate door cards will out-last the originals, but that's ok.

 

My only problem now is.....where to mount my radio?

IMG_20160825_132053.jpg

IMG_20161024_175503.jpg

IMG_20161024_173830.jpg

IMG_20161024_173757.jpg

IMG_20161024_184713.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Fuel delivery problem is back LOL

The Zuk has been running really well, even crawled through most of the MUD Run day 3 without me touching the accelerator pedal.

 

I went to get Lewis from school yesterday and the thing was bogging out under low RPMs. I coasted in to his school and popped the hood....fuel PSI was bouncing up in the 4 to 6 PSI range, so it was flooding the carb.

 

I contacted Holley with my fuel pump details since it's a new regulator, and they said the fuel pump output pressure is 9PSI, and the max for the Holley is 7PSI.

They recommended to get a pump under 7PSI.

 

So, since I've got nice strong fuel delivery, the clear glass filter is out, and the Jeep filter with return is back. The Jeep filter is meant to output 3PSI - so nowhere near to overpowering the regulator.

Some folks even run with just the Jeep filter and no regulator. I tried that, but the carb overflows gas at idle.

 

I'm gonna take another look at the float level....

 

cvp_float_level.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Jay I'm nowhere near knowledgeable about carburetors and the like ... but I'm having trouble following the situation.

  • You have a Screaming Eagle carburetor with max operating PSI of 7.
  • You have a ?? fuel pump with an output of 9 PSI (?)
  • You have a Holley regulator with a max operating PSI of 7 (?)
  • You have a Jeep fuel filter with an operating PSI of 3.
  • You were seeing between 4 and 6 PSI on your fuel pressure gauge under the hood.

Fuel Pump (9 PSI) > Holley Regulator (7 PSI MAX, operating ?) > Jeep Filter (3 PSI) > FPG (showing 4 - 6 PSI) > SE Carburetor (should be > 3 PSI, actual 4 - 6 PSI)

Need to clarify my understanding of the operating pressures of the fuel pump and regulator (two units?), but with my current understanding here are my questions / observations:

  1. Isn't the purpose of the regulator to take input PSI down to operating PSI (i.e. from 9 at pump to 7 at carb)? I don't understand why the Holly (?) regulator should have a 7 PSI pump ... am I missing something there?
  2. What do you have the fuel pressure set at in the regulator? Since the issue was fine through MUD it sounds like something has changed / "let go" - perhaps if the regulator is at 7 PSI and the Jeep filter only outputs 3 PSI (it's not meant to regulate flow) then you've blown out the filter?
  3. Is the SE carb being run too lean at > 3 PSI? Less than 1/2 the max operating ... again don't know anything about carburetors - just looking at the numbers.

Food for thought ... devil's advocate ... whatever you want to call it.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Lol, now that M.U.D. is over, and you've got the time (maybe), maybe you will end up following Clarence's suggestion...........  I never do anything the best way the first time, if you don't either you are in good company or at least have lots of company!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I know I know :) ...and I thought it might come to swapping to the TBI eventually, but I like the simplicity of the carb, but I wanna be different, so I pay the price LOL  ...It is also a great talking point.

I have 2 TBI intakes and all the stuff that goes on it, just not the wiring harness and maybe a computer.

 

Scott - the CV carb is designed to be gravity fed on a motorcycle, so the guy that makes the adapter recommends it to be running at around 1.5 PSI.

To cut a long story short, I was originally having pump issues. So I bought a new pump.

Turns out the pump is 9PSI - more than I thought, the Jeep filter brings it to 3, the Holley regulator to 1.5. That's where is should be happy.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
38 minutes ago, jay said:

Scott - the CV carb is designed to be gravity fed on a motorcycle, so the guy that makes the adapter recommends it to be running at around 1.5 PSI.

To cut a long story short, I was originally having pump issues. So I bought a new pump.

Turns out the pump is 9PSI - more than I thought, the Jeep filter brings it to 3, the Holley regulator to 1.5. That's where is should be happy.

 

Right on. Is the filter actually intended to restrict flow or should you be cutting it down to ~ 1.5 PSI before the filter and then onto the carb?

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Jeep filter doesn't care what it receives because it has a return on it, so any excess gets sent back to the tank.

So I've got;

tank - pump - jeep filter (bypass back to tank) - regulator - carb

Some say the regulator isn't necessary, but my carb pukes gas out of it's overflow if I don't have it. I'm assuming those without a regulator have much weaker fuel pumps.

Link to post
Share on other sites
55 minutes ago, jay said:

 I'm assuming those without a regulator have much weaker fuel pumps.

 

I don't know anything about carbs and fuel pumps.  (Mine work just fine as OEM, by the way!)  But, I think there aren't meant to be weak pumps, that you either have a regulator or a return line.  Dunno!  But you are finding out!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Jay, I had a similar problem with my John Deere lawn tractor. It worked well after a carb rebuild and then started the same problems that you are experiencing. Now before all of you start saying "apples & oranges", keep in mind a carb is a carb.

 

In my case it turns out the retention "loops" that hold the pin through the float were too loose and the pin would slide from one side to the other and sometimes fall out of the holder or preventing the float from operating on the proper axis.

 

A very simple problem that may, or may not, be the cause of your fuel over-flow. I fuC<ed around for weeks before talking someone who recommended that I use pliers to secure the "pin ends" as the float pivots on that pin independantly...needless to say...problem solved.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I already stripped the carb down, it's in good shape, including the float pin, float movement and diaphragm, but thanks for the suggestion :)

 

Tonight I committed a cardinal sin...I made multiple adjustments in one go!
  • I took the carb apart again and ran some carb cleaner through it.
  • I adjusted the float to spec at between 15 to 20 degrees, with 0.445in float depth. Float is moving freely. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6y32Gw5HK4
  • I performed the 'Harley CV carb mods for a samurai ' and increased the vacuum port hole by drilling it to 1/8in. as per video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXKUT9HeRnM
  • I also RTV'd the mounting hole where the carb meets the MySide
If I were to judge the results only by ear, I'd say that was a vast improvement. The engine no longer sounds lumpy like a Harley and the RPMs are much much smoother.
 
I have to check the mixture tomorrow as it was running without choke when cold, so it's probably running rich now the vacuum port is moving the float 'better', or there was an air leak on the mounting point.....who knows.
 

IMG_20161025_183452.jpg

IMG_20161025_183527.jpg

IMG_20161025_185617.jpg

IMG_20161025_185819.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...