sar4x4 Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 Uh oh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 Rebuilt the rear driveshaft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 I have to do some minor maintenance on mine. Mine has a cap/collar on the short side where the splines are to hold in grease. Where you have a bellows. (IIRC on my Toy or another vehicle that was a threaded cap.) On the Burb I hit something pretty solid (scar on the short tube), which shoved the cap off and broke the grease fitting off. I'm going to have to take it off an get it on the bench, the short tube has quite a shoulder to punch it over. (I also bent the BTF 3/8"(?) pinion guard on my 14 Bolt rear on the same rock. There is a nice video on here somewhere when it happened, it stopped me up very short!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 Right now I'm at a stop as I'm struggling to get rid of noise in the rear end. I think it's pinion pre-load as I can feel some tiny play on the end on the pinion, but even with the 3rd on the vehicle, I can't tighten the pinion nut any more that it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Ouch. Is not a bit of play normal? Maybe I drive old junk? Dunno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 I don't believe there should be any slop in the pinion. Dave stopped by last night with a 2nd pair of ears. The noise is definitely the rear end. I was cleaning my workbench and found a thick washer that is supposed to go on before the pinion nut. Maybe the nut hit it's thread stop. I'm also wondering if some of the previous ring/pinion debris got into the bearings and damaged them (all bearings and races looked perfect tho). I also re-used (Chads) inner pinion bearing with my (new-ish) pinion bearing race...maybe there's a mismatch in mating surfaces there. So I have a plan; 1.Put the washer on and try and get the pinion tightened 2.Pull the 3rd, swap the inner pinion bearing, inspect and setup Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Dollars to donughts it's that thick washer! (Many times I've had to take something back apart to replace missing items....) Our highway M.U.D. route not have liked that issue! Wouldn't want to ruin a gear set! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 So, I have 2 nuts....LOL..um, 1 with integral washer and lots of threads, and a nut with a washer. I can see how I ran out of turns on the integral washer nut. I must have gotten the nuts mixed up when I swapped pinions. Incrementally tightening with the washer on did reduce the slop, but didnt help with the noise...hmmm maybe it did a little. 3rd is now on the bench. Pinion is binding on the turn...feels like the bearing as there is still backlash on the gears. Thankfully there doesn't seem to be any gear damage that I can see with it all assembled. Lunch break ran out....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 need a new pinion bearing and a seal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brunet-Hemi Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 No luck at all with bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Nope LOL. The wheel bearings havent leaked since i re-did them.....there's time LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 New bearings and a seal en-route! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 You da man Greg, thank you sir!! Whilst I'm in a holding pattern, I noticed the center pin on the carrier had shifted (see photo), so I decided to 'make' a can to fit around the carrier to keep the pins in place. The Tracker ring gear has a larger inner diameter, so there is a small gap between the carrier and the ring, so the pins are not secure. The can just keeps the spider pins from moving outbound with centrifugal force as the pins are free floating. Originally I thought a tomato can would fit, but it was fractionally too small. A small paint can squeezed over the carrier nicely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 I told them to call when all the parts arrived and I didn't hear from them today but I will be going to CQ Halifax tomorrow to grab other stuff and I'll have them look into it anyways. You neede to price up anything else when I am there? I get great deals on fluids too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 NP ...I think I'm good, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Bearings are in and pinion installed, but during torquing the grade 11 carrier bolts I felt a couple going soft. One had cracked and another was starting to. My bad for initially zipping them on with the gun....lesson learned! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 I didn't manage to get a couple of bolts for the diff 4 pin carrier, so I re-used the Lincoln Locked 2 pin carrier with the good ring gear. Rear end seems to be fixed now. The whining wasn't, so I ended up getting tcase #5 from a dude in Bridgewater. I swapped out the ebrake to a flange. The tcase is another '84 and earlier' SJ tcase, so the flanges are even smaller than the Sami flanges. The output shafts are also smaller, so I cant swap the flanges out for bigger ones. I dug around my parts bin and luckily found an adapter that Michael had given me. So I used it for the stub shaft, and made a 2nd adapter for the FWD output. It's all back together now, and I'm calling it FIXED! - tcase is silent for the 1st time since getting the Zuk.... I even got it up to 90km/h!!! This tcase is 12% lower ratio than the others, so it's a real screamer !! 60km/h is 3k, and 90km/h comes in at just over 4k! I DO have some vibrations at around 60 km/h, so I'm guessing it's likely to be those adapters not being 100% true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 Replaced the clutch cable with a $23 Amazon 'voucher' part.....ooooh, it's so smooth compared with the 'patched and oiled' cable I had, that was starting to get sticky.... again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 23, 2017 Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 The easiest way to compensate for that real low gearing is BIGGER TIRES. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2017 Took a tour of Renfrew. All went well until right at the end. Left the Zuk running to air up, on tire #4 almost everyone had gone.....the Zuk shut off. No fuel pump. Luckily the pump is ok and I hard wired it and the rest of the accessories on that connection to the fuse box. Something else to troubleshoot lol. Must be the relay off the key, or the key switch itself. Also, my compressor pump on/off switch finally died - the switch gets hot!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autumnwalker Posted July 24, 2017 Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 I'd say the switch gets hot! Those leads look burnt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 Found the source of my electrical issue today...an overloaded blade extender. I didn't see the melted goop underneath the connector until I was troubleshooting a single dim headlight issue (which is always the headlight fuse not seating correctly). All the extender had on it was my CB and it didn't pop the fuse. I did transmit a few times during the day it died, but I don't think a 4W transmit would take that much current overall, even with the overhead of running the rest of the radios electronics. But still my bad for over rating the extender with a 15A fuse. So, those crappy extenders are GONE and I added a relay-switched accessory fuse box. Moved all of my accessories to it and had a general wiring tidy up....more tidying to come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 31, 2017 Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 I don't think I'm familiar with those extenders. But I can safely say I've probably over extended a few things at times. And probably said 'oh, this is just temporary', lol. Always good to find the definitive source of the issue! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 You're right, it was temporary and I forgot LOL. I'm still using one of them as it's driving the relay for the fuse box, but it's got a 3 amp fuse on it this time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 Had an hour to spare, so I decided to pay homage to the Xterra's black hood with a ghetto decal. I was going to buy a vinyl decal, but that would have been too shiny I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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