Jump to content
  • Welcome, Guest!

    Welcome to Backcountry 4x4's online community! Consider creating a free account to take part in our discussions, share photos / videos, and start "web wheeling" with us!

derekmac

My 05 Rubi build. Slow like a 4.0

Recommended Posts

Got my light strips mounted and temporarily wired. I have them wired with my light bar right now, but plan on putting them on their own switch.  It turned out better than I thought it was going to, and the best part is, it didn't cost me anything. :) 

 

26923010095_f5da3e6524_b.jpg

Rock lights by Derek MacMillan, on Flickr

 

26317859454_3f15fd2f59_b.jpg

Rock lights by Derek MacMillan, on Flickr

 

26889587576_2a1e0fbecc_b.jpg

Rock lights by Derek MacMillan, on Flickr

 

26923010995_94e2435686_b.jpg

Rock lights by Derek MacMillan, on Flickr

 

This is looking out and down the drivers door.

26855613381_66b9cc0b55_b.jpg

Rock lights by Derek MacMillan, on Flickr

 

26829416612_8b8825a850_b.jpg

Rock lights by Derek MacMillan, on Flickr

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Brunet-Hemi said:

I am stealing this

IV had" rock"lights on my old Dodge one time , but they got used more for undercarriage repairs than wheeling. The rubber housing tractor lights is what I used.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
29 minutes ago, Powerram said:

used more for undercarriage repairs

that's what immediately came to my mind too when I 1st saw it LOL

dual purpose ! :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So, I finally went to change the rear shocks to put longer ones on, and as I went to remove the top mounting bolts, one on each side snapped.  The fist bolt I tried on the pass side came out, but the other one broke.  The first one on the drivers side broke, and I didn't tempt the other one.  I'm not sure if I should try and drill them out, or use a cut off wheel with my Dremel.

 

That pics not mine, but that's what I have to deal with.

IMG_2436_zps025a1f8f.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Damn, that sucks!!

If it was mine, I'd hit the bolt shaft with a center punch, and try and drill it out. Or if there's enough poking out, weld a nut to the end of it.

******* 2 minute jobs eh ?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried using my air chisel, but it kept slipping off the shaft.  I also thought about trying to weld something to it, but there's not much room, and it's right about a plastic gas tank.  Eeek!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah don't blow yourself up!!

When I loose a Nissan bolt, I've learned center punching and drilling seems to be the most effective.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, jay said:

Yeah don't blow yourself up!!

When I loose a Nissan bolt, I've learned center punching and drilling seems to be the most effective.

 

Usually I just weld a flat washer to the broken stud and then a nut to the washer and usually back out with no problem. Your call with the tank, myself , I'd hit it with the welder, but each to there own. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The exact same thing happened to mine when I changed my rear shocks. I cut holes in my trunk floor and drilled them out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe I'll see if I can get at it with the welder.  I imagine the heat from welding will help loosen it too.

 

Searching shows some guys loosening the body mounts, and lifting the body some to get at them.  That will be a last resort though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wonder what's it's like to work on a 'southern' vehicle and this doesn't happen much!  

Impact wrenches help too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, sar4x4 said:

Wonder what's it's like to work on a 'southern' vehicle and this doesn't happen much!  

Impact wrenches help too.

Wouldn't it be nice!!

 

So I found a guy that cut small access holes in the tub, and it honestly seems like it might be the easiest way to do it.  No ******* around trying to reach up from underneath, and the hole will be there if I need to access them again.  Of course, I'll be using antiseize on the bolts so they don't seize up again.

 

Here are the pics he took:

hole1.jpg

 

hole2.jpg

 

hole3.jpg

 

hole4.jpg

 

hole5.jpg

 

patch1.jpg

 

patch2.jpg

 

patch3.jpg

 

patch4.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've found the best way of getting out a broken bolt is to drill it out using a left handed drill bit. Most of the broken bolts I dealt with are from working on motorcycles and are much smaller, those ones in your pictures look pretty manky but might be worth a shot and easy enough to try.

 

Easy outs should be outlawed and banished to the ends of the earth imo!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I cut holes in the floor to access the body mount bolts that were beyond seized. Then welded back up once bolts replaced.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those nuts are just tacked onto the shock mount.  If you are confident in you swing with a 2.5-5lb maul , you can just drive em out, then install stainless hardware

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, 82Yota said:

 

That's pretty neat rig, I use a small home hardware oxy /map torch for tight little spots. It can cut 3/8" studs and also heat sopts very isolated without burning down the rig. But that video is pretty cool

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They're about $400 but worth it in my opinion. They are called bolt busters and you can get them on amazon

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've never seen anything like that before, very cool!!

 

I didn't have much room, or a good angle to whack at them. My Dremel with a cut off disc worked great. Well, until it died. I was able to use my air one though, but it was slow since my compressor has a pretty low cfm. 

 

I didn't finish it last night, but I'll get it done tonight. 

image.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the hardware, I just bought some grade 8 zinc plated Princess Auto bolts.  I made sure to use antiseize on them though. :) 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All sealed up. It rides much better now too! The shocks I put in are just stock shocks from a newer JK, but they're about 2.5" longer, which works great with the 2" lift. I'm going to change the front out too, but I either need to get bar pin eliminators, or swap the bar pins from the old shocks over.  

 

image.jpeg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...