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My 05 Rubi build. Slow like a 4.0


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Today I made a set of bar pin eliminators, put the JK front shocks in, took both front coil spring isolators out and replaced them with the 2" coil spacers that were in there before. It's now sitting

Here's hoping these will hold too.   The second front fender is welded up.  I screwed up when I first started tacking the skin on, and had to cut it off.  Luckily I only had about 5 tacks do

Finally got my light bar mounted today.  

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My new front calipers came today, and I was able to get them on in between rain showers.  For bed in, EBC says to drive it easy for the first 200km, then to start the hard braking to really bed them in.  After 1600km they say that's when you'll really notice how good they are.  Right now they're already twice as good as what was on there.  I'll get the rears done on the weekend (hopefully).

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If the backs aren't adjusted well, and you put new ones / adjusted ones on there, you may notice an even bigger difference than you have already!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have about 500km on my new brakes, and I'm loving them! Way better than what was on it. Cold bite is very good, but they really shine with a little heat in them.  I also completed my 3" junkyard lift today.  Since the Crown Vic springs didn't lift the rear as much as I thought they would, I installed the front coil spring isolators that I didn't use, and now it's sitting right at 3" front and rear.

 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

OK, so I have some current and future plans in the works.

 

I won a $200 gift card for Peck Auto at Invasion, and I'm going to be getting a Rough Country high clearance skid plate with it.  This is part of the current and future plans.  To properly use this skid plate, I need a 1.25" body lift, rear adjustable upper control arms, rear double cardan drive shaft, and a motor mount lift.  I have a MML in the garage, but none of the other parts.  My plan is to install the new skid using drop brackets.  Even dropping it down, I should gain some clearance, and I'll have a skid that is flat on the bottom, and won't dig into the ground like the stock one.

 

I also want to eventually (next 2 years probably) get front and rear TMR bumpers for it, and maybe their rock sliders.  I also want to do the ZJ tie rod upgrade, since it's quite a bit heavier than the TJ one.

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Well I went to the u-pull today since there's a lifted TJ there, and I pulled the transfer case drop pucks. I can't use the bolts though since this was an older TJ that used standard instead of metric bolts.  I also grabbed two oil caps since mine's broke.

Everything cost me a grand total of $11.50 :) 

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48 minutes ago, jay said:

Transworld should.

Fastenal may have them, but I would call first because I was told by them that they don't carry metric.

I guess they should be called "Fastensome" then! lol

 

46 minutes ago, Brunet-Hemi said:

Transworld is $10 min cash $20 min debit.  just something to keep in mind.  

 

CT would carry them as well but only grade 5.  

The factory bolts are grade 10.9, though 8.8 should be fine.  I'll check the Elmsdale CT tomorrow to see what they have.

 

Thanks guys!! :)

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Thanks Justin!

 

I honestly can't see why 8.8's wouldn't be strong enough.  There are 6 bolts holding up not a lot of weight, and there's not much for forces being applied to them.  That's (10.9's) what's in them from the factory though.

 

I'll call around tomorrow (or the next day) and see what I can find.

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7 hours ago, Jawritch said:

I have them in 50, 60 or 70. No 55.

I also have your choice of 10.9 (grade 8) or 8.8 (grade 5)

 

8.8s are shop supplies and go pretty cheap. 

10.9s are a bit pricey.

 

IMG_20170814_132434.thumb.jpg.2e295486888065b76660330ab06db865.jpg

 

I just learned a whole lot, I've never had exposure to high strength metric before!

 

Thanks!  :biggthumpup:

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18 hours ago, derekmac said:

Thanks Justin!

 

I honestly can't see why 8.8's wouldn't be strong enough.  There are 6 bolts holding up not a lot of weight, and there's not much for forces being applied to them.  That's (10.9's) what's in them from the factory though.

 

I'll call around tomorrow (or the next day) and see what I can find.

 

I found grade 10.9 to be strong but more brittle....as I found out when I sheered off all 6 grade 10.9 bolts off my Warn hub !!

 

 

IMG_20150726_091820.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

So I haven't done too much, but I have been slack on the minor updates. 

 

I wired up and in cab winch switch. 

 

I left the power wire unhooked while I was running everything. 

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The red switch is the power switch, and the other one is a two way momentary rocker switch. 

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Edited by derekmac
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I also relocated the locker pumps to under the hood. 

 

I don't know why Jeep thought putting them under the Jeep was a good idea. 

20171007_124744.thumb.jpg.b54c5005799434e214c7606f122fcb09.jpg

 

Wiring and new air line in place. 

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Under the hood where no more ice chunks will break a nipple off (see silicon blob). 

20171007_180544.thumb.jpg.59f2366791e7a41e385fb7e7929482b5.jpg

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My new skid plate also arrived, but I wasn't able to install it. I knew I'd have to drop it some, but the 1" spacers weren't enough. Some 2.5" square tubing will work perfectly though. This skid plate is MUCH beefier than the stock one, the the front and rear lips angle up instead of down like the dumb stock skid. 

 

20171006_162503.thumb.jpg.6a3db65d4f388e425d1856370f6124cd.jpg

 

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20171007_130657.thumb.jpg.72e8843226dc184895ee07f10ad82333.jpg

20171006_162604.jpg

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