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My 05 Rubi build. Slow like a 4.0


derekmac

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I have the Currie branded one.  Luv it.  But after watching Mike(?) air down on Trail Development Day  (M.U.D. Day 4), if you are good you can do it without it!  Still, it's nice to have the guage as part of the package! 

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13 hours ago, derekmac said:

I ordered an ARB ez deflator yesterday, and it arrived today.  Of course I had to try it out too :)  Man, why didn't I get one of these years ago??  What a wicked bit of kit!!

Excellent piece of kit ... I have one too. Used to drop the 38's in seconds.

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, TomWood said:

 Need to get me an OBA setup soon.

 

Mount the Canadian Tire inflator (buy it on sale like Jay and I and others), and mount it under your hood perhaps.  ~$60 and you're good to go!

Buy two!  Inflate two tires at once! Or for large tires and a long truck like mine, I need one for each side! lol

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I finished hardwiring my CT compressor in on Sunday. I went to use it after the run Saturday, and the switch wasn't working. 

 

I have two switches on my ammo can now. One for the main power going to it (through a relay), and one to act as the on/off switch. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, derekmac said:

I ordered one of these Powerbuilt 620471 Unijack today.  I don't like using Hi-Lifts for changing tires (too unstable), and the factory scissor jack kind of sucks too.  I figured this would safer on the trails, and it's something I can use in the garage too.

That's cool, should work well for ya, 

 

With the other jack you don't like,  once you figure out how to keep the vehicle stable , it's limitless to what you can do with a farm jack. The key to using a farmjack is only one corner of the vehicle at a time if jacking from the bumpers, or one whole side at a time if jacking from a rocker sill. I usually never jack an axle off the ground with a farmjack, it will shift side to side, . 

I've even changed tires on the car with the farmjack, piece of wood on sill, then jack and lift whole side of car, but I have had my fair share of close calls with it too, also saw a guy put his hand between the Jeep tailgate and jack trying to prevent it from rolling forward, pinched his hand and crushed the tailgate with his hand still there . 

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I never thought of that, but I'll try it in the stock jack location.  I'm thinking the base might be too big though, but there is a good amount of room under the seats.  I'm still trying to figure out a good and safe way to carry my farm jack too.

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I ordered new headlights, and got them installed today.  I went with Rugged Ridge 12402.80 Round Crystal H2 Headlights .  Amazon had them on for $82, so I grabbed them.

 

New on the left:

20170217_164907.jpg

 

Old lights:

20170217_163027.jpg
20170217_163033.jpg

 

Drivers side installed:

20170217_165959.jpg
20170217_164642.jpg
20170217_164648.jpg

 

I forgot to take a pic of both installed.  I'll try them out tonight to see how much brighter they are compared to the old stock sealed beam lights.

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The old ones were super dim!!  I think two tea lights on the front bumper would have been brighter!! lol

 

I also ordered my front and rear tube fenders yesterday.  They'll take a while to get here, and it'll probably take a while for me to get them installed.  I'll start with the rear as they are the easiest, and will give me a chance to brush up on my welding, lol.

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Not a fan of your new lights for oncoming drivers. If you look at the original light pattern, not the output but the pattern, your pic demonstrated this perfectly, there is a cutoff of the light spread going up. Almost like a horizontal line of light. This is a design feature to give light to the road and Infront of you and fan to the sides, but the cutoff is designed to limit glare into oncoming drivers eyes. Alot of aftermarket lighting doesn't have this feature, but there is also a lot of aftermarket lighting that has this designed into the lights. But the trade off is more $ for the lights that have it built in to reduce glare that have a high output.  Not knocking your rig , but just an observation as I spend endless hours on the roads lol.

 

The fenders will be awesome. Keep your rig low but have exceptional tire clearance. Can't wait to see that finished. Once the fenders are finished, are you planning on a larger tire to fill the new space?

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I've always been careful to have my lights aimed properly.  I've never come across, or should I say, never purchased ones that weren't DOT approved. With the fluted lens for the proper pattern.  If they don't have the nibs on them for commercial headlight aimers, which I wouldn't bother with, go on-line and find the right aiming by visual.  The top of the low beam pattern Matt is referencing should be 2" down  at 25' away, vehicle sitting horizontal of course.  The Bosch/Cibie/Lucas component halogens you had to do this.  Which is what I've always run for my vehicles with round and rectangular headlights.

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These ones needed to be aimed down, which I just did.  They are DOT/SAE approved lights, and the bulbs are also DOT approved.  I don't have a good spot to do a proper aiming right now unfortunately. :(

 

No, I'm going to be staying with 33's.  Right now I had to add an extra inch of bump stop to keep the front tires out of the fenders, and once the tube fenders are on, I'll be able to remove the extra bump stop. :) 

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