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My 05 Rubi build. Slow like a 4.0


derekmac

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I did a quick crawl under it today and checked the u-joints, and suspension/steering components.  I need to replace the drivers side u-joint (which I have), but the rest all seem tight.  I also didn't notice anything loose, but didn't have anyone to help with doing a dry steering test.  I did find that the shaft that comes from the steering wheel, and attaches to the steering gear box was loooooose!!  The shaft had TONS of play, but all that went away when I tightened it back up.

 

All four bolts that attach the downpipe to the manifold are loose also.  I did get one tightened up some, but the rest wouldn't budge.  They're pretty rusted, so I figured they'd snap if I put too much pressure on them.  I'll pick up some new bolts and replace them all.

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11 minutes ago, derekmac said:

Wow, the steering was so much tighter driving to work this morning, and 99% off the front end vibration is now gone. Woohoo! Lol

I drive MUCH older stuff than yours, steering shafts and box-to-frame are problems, that are often missed.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've had a clunk under the Jeep for a few months now, and I had suspected that it was the transmission mount. I picked up a new one today, and got it mostly installed. 

 

The old one was SHOT!! The rubber was separating from the metal part of the mount, and the small round bar that holds it all together was bent. I could also easily flex it with my thumbs. I can't budge the new one even with my full weight on it. 

 

I was also very happy to see that where the skid plate mounts to the frame is in damn near perfect shape. 

 

20161104_194412.jpg

20161104_191908.jpg

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4 minutes ago, jay said:

Looking sharp! 

How do they look on the Rubi?

 

Thanks!  Not sure, lol.  I have the front drivers side apart as I was changing the u-joint.  I fought with that damn u-joint on and off all bloody day.  When I did the passenger side a while back, it went rather easily.  When I get that finished up tomorrow, I'll probably pull the other three tires off, put the stock tires back on, and that'll give me more room and time to paint the other three.  I wanted to do some crazy colour, but Danielle didn't seem too impressed with that idea, lol. :D 

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You might want to update the name of the thread now, it out classes the three posts of the original 'not much of a build thread'! lol

 

I think Jay changed his build thread's name a couple weeks ago!  But not as often as his avatar/icon.  I'm always interested in his changes! lol

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So I replaced the front drivers side u-joint, and am in the process of doing the rear driveshaft.  The one on the driveshaft appears to be the original, as I had to melt out the seal to get it out.  I've been driving in FWD, and OMG is it ever had to not spin the front tires!!  In 1st and 2nd, even light throttle will spin the tires, lol.

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I can't think of why the front tires spin easy!  When FWD cars became popular folks said you don't need winter tires because the engine weight gives you more traction.  Jeeps are relatively short, weight distribution might be fairly even compared to a 2 Door lwb pickup.  I think it's your driving style! Lol

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14 minutes ago, sar4x4 said:

I remember you saying that.  I was just trying to understand the dynamics.  In my mind it must be related to where the bulk of the vehicle weight is, behind the traction wheels instead of in front. Interesting!

 

 

 

 

 

14 minutes ago, sar4x4 said:

Yep,  my truck is definitely nose heavy, transfer of weight. Inertia, and Kenitic energy. Think of a drag car, yes a bit extreme example, but same principle, it lifts the front wheels, also look at the old timer drag cars, they set the front high and rear low, for maximum weight transfer to the rear wheels. Now FWD have drag cars , the set up on them is front low and rear high for the least amount of weight transfer to keep traction on the front wheels 

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