derekmac Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Got my light strips mounted and temporarily wired. I have them wired with my light bar right now, but plan on putting them on their own switch. It turned out better than I thought it was going to, and the best part is, it didn't cost me anything. Rock lights by Derek MacMillan, on Flickr Rock lights by Derek MacMillan, on Flickr Rock lights by Derek MacMillan, on Flickr Rock lights by Derek MacMillan, on Flickr This is looking out and down the drivers door. Rock lights by Derek MacMillan, on Flickr Rock lights by Derek MacMillan, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Right on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brunet-Hemi Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 I am stealing this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 2 hours ago, Brunet-Hemi said: I am stealing this IV had" rock"lights on my old Dodge one time , but they got used more for undercarriage repairs than wheeling. The rubber housing tractor lights is what I used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 29 minutes ago, Powerram said: used more for undercarriage repairs that's what immediately came to my mind too when I 1st saw it LOL dual purpose ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 NICE! I want,.,.,.,.,.,.,.,.,.,.,.,.,. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 So, I finally went to change the rear shocks to put longer ones on, and as I went to remove the top mounting bolts, one on each side snapped. The fist bolt I tried on the pass side came out, but the other one broke. The first one on the drivers side broke, and I didn't tempt the other one. I'm not sure if I should try and drill them out, or use a cut off wheel with my Dremel. That pics not mine, but that's what I have to deal with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Damn, that sucks!! If it was mine, I'd hit the bolt shaft with a center punch, and try and drill it out. Or if there's enough poking out, weld a nut to the end of it. ******* 2 minute jobs eh ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 I tried using my air chisel, but it kept slipping off the shaft. I also thought about trying to weld something to it, but there's not much room, and it's right about a plastic gas tank. Eeek!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Yeah don't blow yourself up!! When I loose a Nissan bolt, I've learned center punching and drilling seems to be the most effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 9 hours ago, jay said: Yeah don't blow yourself up!! When I loose a Nissan bolt, I've learned center punching and drilling seems to be the most effective. Usually I just weld a flat washer to the broken stud and then a nut to the washer and usually back out with no problem. Your call with the tank, myself , I'd hit it with the welder, but each to there own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jawritch Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 The exact same thing happened to mine when I changed my rear shocks. I cut holes in my trunk floor and drilled them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Maybe I'll see if I can get at it with the welder. I imagine the heat from welding will help loosen it too. Searching shows some guys loosening the body mounts, and lifting the body some to get at them. That will be a last resort though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Wonder what's it's like to work on a 'southern' vehicle and this doesn't happen much! Impact wrenches help too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 7 minutes ago, sar4x4 said: Wonder what's it's like to work on a 'southern' vehicle and this doesn't happen much! Impact wrenches help too. Wouldn't it be nice!! So I found a guy that cut small access holes in the tub, and it honestly seems like it might be the easiest way to do it. No ******* around trying to reach up from underneath, and the hole will be there if I need to access them again. Of course, I'll be using antiseize on the bolts so they don't seize up again. Here are the pics he took: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 looks like a winner to me! good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flibby Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 I've found the best way of getting out a broken bolt is to drill it out using a left handed drill bit. Most of the broken bolts I dealt with are from working on motorcycles and are much smaller, those ones in your pictures look pretty manky but might be worth a shot and easy enough to try. Easy outs should be outlawed and banished to the ends of the earth imo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 I cut holes in the floor to access the body mount bolts that were beyond seized. Then welded back up once bolts replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Those nuts are just tacked onto the shock mount. If you are confident in you swing with a 2.5-5lb maul , you can just drive em out, then install stainless hardware Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 7 hours ago, 82Yota said: That's pretty neat rig, I use a small home hardware oxy /map torch for tight little spots. It can cut 3/8" studs and also heat sopts very isolated without burning down the rig. But that video is pretty cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 They're about $400 but worth it in my opinion. They are called bolt busters and you can get them on amazon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 I've never seen anything like that before, very cool!! I didn't have much room, or a good angle to whack at them. My Dremel with a cut off disc worked great. Well, until it died. I was able to use my air one though, but it was slow since my compressor has a pretty low cfm. I didn't finish it last night, but I'll get it done tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 For the hardware, I just bought some grade 8 zinc plated Princess Auto bolts. I made sure to use antiseize on them though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 All sealed up. It rides much better now too! The shocks I put in are just stock shocks from a newer JK, but they're about 2.5" longer, which works great with the 2" lift. I'm going to change the front out too, but I either need to get bar pin eliminators, or swap the bar pins from the old shocks over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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