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The Ford


Powerram

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Also iv decided to weld the diff's up solid. I figured it won't be a whole lot different than the lunchbox lox lockers I had in the truck before. This is the first truck iv ever ran lockers in, always just welded them in the past. Also with the manual trans, the rear was always locked and chirping turns, and the front was also always locked because when it was in 4wd torque was applied and it was locked too. So to keep it on the cheap, just going to weld er up front and back. 

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On ‎12‎/‎13‎/‎2017 at 9:26 PM, Powerram said:

Also iv decided to weld the diff's up solid. I figured it won't be a whole lot different than the lunchbox lox lockers I had in the truck before. This is the first truck iv ever ran lockers in, always just welded them in the past. Also with the manual trans, the rear was always locked and chirping turns, and the front was also always locked because when it was in 4wd torque was applied and it was locked too. So to keep it on the cheap, just going to weld er up front and back. 

Most other folks, with small axles and big tires, I'd say oh oh oh.  But, you've always shown to know what you're doing!  So I watch and learn, oh great sensei!

 

:biggthumpup:

 

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Never got the driveshaft installed yet, need to pick up some 1/2" fine thread bolts on Monday. Picked up a 130amp alternator today for the ford, just have to get a battery now and some 1ga cable ends. The battery I plan on using is an industrial type, cat application 4D battery. I'm going to mount it in the bed of the truck up near the headboard. Also going to mount some brighter lights to the back of the truck, its hard to see backing up in the dark, the faded factory reverse lights dont offer much help. 

received_10215400144459807.jpeg

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Work was busy on Monday and Tuesday. 

Drilled the stock f250 drive shaft flange out to 1/2" holes, and installed the driveshaft. Everything cleared no problem including headers, and cross member, also did a flex test to insure the double cardan wouldn't bind . All is good

 Also made up a cable for the 130 amp alt, there is some minor wiring to change to hook it up, need to grab the alt connectors off the superduty, 

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Took the truck for its first little trail ride on the way home since its refresh, solid axle is much rougher riding, but I believe this can be softer with adjusting tire pressures,(40-45psi last night) a 4x4 works great, no binding or rubbing, the night trail ride also tested upgraded electrical system, at crawl, engine elec fan running, headlights on high beam, heater running on high, and the light bar on, the voltage stayed nice and steady, no dimming or discharging, noticed a slight drop in voltage if I really lugged it down, but was still at 13v at the drop, that's great ,the rest of the time it was rock steady at 14.2v. Also can't wait to winch , fixed coroded battery terminals, and rusty attachment for the winch cables has been replaced. The winch should work good now, and has the battery power to run.

 I have received some decals from warn industries, so I have them installed now, I'm really starting to love my truck again. And a Christmas present came for me yesterday. My hedman ceramic coated headers with ball socket collectors were dropped off. Can't wait to install them. Here is a pic of the new decals.

IMG_20171217_164042.jpg

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My Sub electrical works great, however the Scout, with an ammeter, and unknown alternator, really lets the lights dim and fan slow at idle.  I’ve never investigated it.  I want to put relays on the headlights just to get the power out of the switch as the start of possible further electrical upgrades.  (I had to upgrade the starting circuit a few years ago.)

Tire pressure, I think 40 psi is quite a bit higher than you need!  And interesting, but yeah I bet a SFA is not as smooth as the previous TTB.

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1 hour ago, sar4x4 said:

My Sub electrical works great, however the Scout, with an ammeter, and unknown alternator, really lets the lights dim and fan slow at idle.  I’ve never investigated it.  I want to put relays on the headlights just to get the power out of the switch to start.

Tire pressure, I think 40 psi is quite a bit higher than you need! 

My ford was set up the same with ammeter on the dash, and it would drain the battery to the point of no start if you were idling around with heater on due to the design of the alt.

 Yes, I agree, that 40psi is excessive for trail running.

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  • 1 month later...
5 hours ago, autumnwalker said:

Nice! Any reason?

Looking for fuel milage. Want to be able to drive my beast daily , or if I find some Alberta treasure I can't live without, I want to be able to cross the country pulling my trailer and keep reasonable fuel bills. Nothing wrong with the truck the way it is, but its thirsty and not feasible to run on a regular basis. Wish fuel was cheaper , cause I like my gas v8's 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Had to get towed out of a hole yesterday, and broke some parts, but was able to make it back to the shop in front wheel drive, need to replace the flange yolk, and the yolk on the driveshaft will also need to be replaced

IMG_20180224_172528.jpg

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On 25/02/2018 at 5:55 PM, autumnwalker said:

Any pics of the stuck?

None in the actual hole, but a few people snapped some pics of the axle under the truck. The u bolt plate bent, I had some axle wrap and was rooting on it pretty hard, tension was lost in the u bolts and the axle under power walked up the spring under the truck. 

 Made some progress towards mounting the 39.5 x13x 15" tires on the superduty axles. Cutting centers out of the 15" x10" wheels I had on the shelf in preparation to recenter them with the superduty bolt pattern and the back spacing needed to clear the calipers

IMG_20180302_172241.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Still haven't finished the wheels yet, had a relay failure for the fuel pumps, the other day while wheeling solo, had no tools, so just stripped a wire back and used booster cable from battery to the stripped wire and drove it home. 

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1 hour ago, Powerram said:

Still haven't finished the wheels yet, had a relay failure for the fuel pumps, the other day while wheeling solo, had no tools, so just stripped a wire back and used booster cable from battery to the stripped wire and drove it home. 

Field fix!  Good!

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Wheeled , the truck on sat, worked great, sun day I went solo wheeling and put a few new dents in , and broke the rest of the exhaust hangars off, so now I'm going to put stacks on it , still haven't put the new headers on yet, life has been getting in the way. Also was thinking of finally building the step side box for it now, and to mount the wrecker boom

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  • 1 month later...

Had the truck out on the may long weekend, tore it up a bit, packed clutch with muddy debris, also hit driveshaft steady bearing on a rock and bent the mount, so I removed the mount, and hammered it straight on a rock, then on an easy spot I dropped the rear pass tire into a spot that wedged it, got stuck and open diff's it wouldn't come out, ended up mangling rear bumper and boxside lower rear corner after winching and drove over winch cable, wrapped it around the front housing almost tearing off brakelines. 

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