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The Ford


Powerram

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Just occurred that I don't have any pics of my truck when it was just an old truck. Here it is when I had first bought it for $200 . Only had front wheel drive in this pic as the 9" rear end was nfg. Since this pic it has had 3 rear ends installed , a complete lift installed and removed, an engine, front axle swap(ongoing). Only drivetrain component left original to the truck is the transmission. Also here is a pic right after lifting it with 39.5 irocks.

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Finished the front suspension today, well almost, still have to do shock mounts , but that is easy. This is its final front ride height after installing and yanking the front axle what seems like 100 times. Finally got the shackle angle where I want it. 

Its just a touch higher than I had figured, but that's OK,  guess I have to do some work on the rear to make it match lol. 

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13 hours ago, sar4x4 said:

I know the truck, it has pieces of my bronco in it. Starts super easy, idles nice and smooth. 

 

So running total on parts for the ford is now up to 3297.85, combined front and rear, still a few little parts and pieces I'll need to get yet , but I have everything I need for now to get it back on its wheels minus driveshafts.

Today I tore the knuckles and axle shafts out of the front. Working on driver side, installed new upper and lower ball joints, cleaned the knuckle, painted knuckle, painted unit bearing, going to paint caliper and bracket after I post this, removed u joint from axle shaft, prepped to reinstall u joint, removed ugly 2piece floating seal from outer stub, cleaned and hopefully tomorrow after work I'll reassemble the driver side.

 

 

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9 hours ago, sar4x4 said:

Unit bearings and ball joints!  Not like my spindle bearings and king pins!  I forget about these new fangled technologies, lol. UCAs and LCAs anyone?

Yep, it was a huge debate for me, the old king pin d60 or newer superduty d60, and deciding factor was the knuckles, iv bent the factory knuckles on a d60 kingpin before so some research and this is said to be common with abuse, so with my driving style (abusive) and availability of used knuckles if I bend one, ( but from research i probably won't) the superduty d60 for the win for me. Every junkyard has superduty stuff. Good used King pin d60 stuff is starting to be thined out, and bringing a crazy price for parts. I loved my d60 kingpin spindles for easy to rebuild and ease of cost, but trade off I guess.  Pros and cons for both. I had 3 d60 fronts to choose from for the build. The chev kingpin 60, mid 90's ford ball joint 60 with tapered roller bearing spindles and the 2002 d60 superduty front. 

 

Some small progress, got u joint installed and painted driver side axle, cleaned and relubed warn lockout ready to install when I get home tonight.

 

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3 hours ago, sar4x4 said:

I hear ya.  I'd use SuperDuty if fit the project!  Good stuff!

I have enough parts around it didn't matter which side the diff was on, I could make either side work where the chevy D60 had pass drop. Like that ford, Cummins truck, I got enough stuff around to make it driver drop on the t-case, but I hoard all my parts till I have a direction to run with.  Tracey is surprised I sold 2 pair of d60 axles, and some 38" tires and rims, and even sold all the RCV stuff from the ford. Its not normal for me to sell so much stuff lol

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More painting, rear fuel tank painted, pass side axle u joint replaced and axle painted, I brought the knuckle to do the ball joints , but only grabbed one ball joint, the other box I grabbed was the coupler for tie rod lol. Hopefully tonight some reassembly will occur haha. Also cleaned and relubed warn hub and pieces.

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5 minutes ago, jay said:

That looks awesome! I wish I had the patience to make it looks purdy.....I usually just wanna get stuff installed.

Its more for corrosion control than to be pretty, once the wheel is on ya can't see any of it. But I painted everything

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Dropped the rear shaft off to have retubed 3.5" longer, ran into seal fitment issues on t-case, but some research I have found the sizes of seals I need. Front shaft will have to wait till next month, but will be cheaper to have shortened.

 

Onto some thoughts now, was thinking about 15" wheels with superduty bolt pattern. Nobody makes such a beast. Was thinking about taking the centers from a factory set of  superduty steel wheels, and turning the dia of the center down to fit inside 15x10 blank shells.

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13 hours ago, Powerram said:

Onto some thoughts now, was thinking about 15" wheels with superduty bolt pattern. Nobody makes such a beast. Was thinking about taking the centers from a factory set of  superduty steel wheels, and turning the dia of the center down to fit inside 15x10 blank shells.

Whyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy?  Will 15" fit over the calipers?  I had 15" 8x6.6" rims for a while, and if I had to do it again I'd skip that step and go straight to 17s!

I did it because the used rims were cheaper than new tires, and the 8 lug front was a Dana 44 (3/4 ton) and I didn't need to grind the calipers much.  When I was going to a Dana 60 front, I would have had to grind waaaaay too much.  Switched to 17" rims and was upgrading to larger tires anyway.

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But you know all that.  I wrote it for other readers.  You want something different than everyone else!  lol I get it.  That's why I have a Scout and not a Bronco or CJ.......

Course the Scout is better............ lol

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1 hour ago, sar4x4 said:

But you know all that.  I wrote it for other readers.  You want something different than everyone else!  lol I get it.  That's why I have a Scout and not a Bronco or CJ.......

Course the Scout is better............ lol

Not so much to be different, but Iv got brand new 39.5" irocks for 15" rim, and iv got a brand new set of 35" bfg  for a 15" rim that nobody seems to want.  2-1/4"backspace will clear the calipers without touching anything with a grinder. Iv got a set of 15x8 ,8lug and a set of 15x10, 8lug and both sets for 8on 6.5. Ran them on the dodges , My bolt pattern is 8on 170, slightly bigger than the old style 8lug. 

 

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38 minutes ago, Jawritch said:

Why not just order some adapters? I'm sure you have 100 8x6.5 rims around

I just don't care for adaptors, was going to go that route but just don't like the idea of it

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On ‎10‎/‎17‎/‎2017 at 8:14 PM, Powerram said:

I just don't care for adaptors, was going to go that route but just don't like the idea of it

I understand.  Spacing the front wheels outwards wreaks havoc on the scrub radius, probably the turning radius, and the increased leverage could be hard on the wheel bearings if you're running an 'undersized' axle.

And the possibility of them coming loose.  If one doesn't use thread locker.

 

I have spacers on my (rear) 14-Bolt.  Because the rear axle is narrower than the front.  It's wasn't noticeable until I put the Bushwhacker flares on. Looks much better now and no issues with the increased leverage on the wheel bearings, the axle is waaaay over-built for my rig.  And I never used thread locker..................  and nothing has ever come loose...............

 

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