robicon Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Finally think I have figured out my issue, The rear drive shaft is pissed off after I got a 4" lift in it. So hard to tell when driving by yourself. And in the rear. Thought it might be tranny or T case. Lifted drive shaft makes way more sense to me. No one could ever tell me. The comments help justify my thoughts. Soo I will need someone or many to give me a hand to determine if that is the problem for sure. Driving in the Sobeys parking lots we can tell at the AGM. Any help is greatly appreciated. So annoying especially when the stealership tells me it's my passenger seat I'm 100% serious... Since then I have boycotted them. Take my money and don't tell me my issue. Crooks! Just need help to determine the problem so I can open my wallet and fix the problem and get on with my life :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 If you think it is your driveshaft, remove it and go for a drive. Is the noise still there then? If yes then continue on looking for the source of your noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robicon Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 If you think it is your driveshaft, remove it and go for a drive. Is the noise still there then? If yes then continue on looking for the source of your noise. there's an idea. Stupid question from an IT guy.... Isn't my Jeep rear wheel drive? How will that work? Need to be in 4 wheel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Put it in 4-hi. Just don't go 100km/h down the highway like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 And make sure you are in 4wd and/or chock the wheels to keep from rolling when you pull the driveshaft ;) . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robicon Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Gonna be an expensive endeavor by the looks of it. More research shows its the rear casing it. Due to the 4" lift. My front pinon bearing is loose to... I may just bite the bullet and replace the front and rear drive shafts :very_frustrated: Will be awhile before I do but at least I know now drive shafts are my issue. Drive shafts angles... I bet the average jeeper doesn't think about them when lifting. Nor the average mechanic trying to diagnose problems ... Learning the hard way as always! Back to bed. Work sucks when you get 3am support calls. :eeeew: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Pulling a rear driveshaft works, but only if it connects by bolts to the transfer case and doesn't use a slip joint of course! Eliminating that slip joint is a common upgrade. Robbie - Check out Slip Yoke Eliminators (SYE) on-line before buying a new rear shaft. Upgrading to a SYE and new driveshaft can solve your rear driveshaft problems. It handles the lift, fixes the rear shaft, allows it to be removed, etc etc. The average 'Jeeper' might not think about issues with lifts but it is well well well known and discussed. Hence SYEs, rear driveshafts with Double Cardan joints, wedge / shims to change your rear pinion angle, and transfer case drops. And front pinion bearings. All of this is common especially with a lifted and well used rig, so congrats on using your rig a lot! These problems are a badge of honor! And it isn't just Jeeps, it's all rigs. Ask us how we all know! Even with my long wheelbase Suburban I've shimed the rear axle and put in a custom front driveshaft for better flex and proper length. And replaced my half-ton front axle with a 1-ton one when the front pinion bearings, wheel bearings, and ball joints all bit the dust at the same time trying to handle those 37s. (I had to shim the rear axle to maintain proper U-Joint angles because of the rear-lift I used, a shackle flip kit, rotates the rear pinion up in the front, which is good for a double-cardan style driveshaft but bad for a regular style one. See, it really is ' it all depends' on your style of suspension and lift! They pay those suspension engineers good money! lol) Welcome to the Just Empty Every Pocket club if you regularly (ab)use your rig! :smiley-transport027: :biggthumpup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robicon Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Appreciate the advise Eugene! I will look into SYE tonight Only got 70K on the JK. A lot of them are in the woods getting used for what I bought it for :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 gotta respect the wealth of knowledge and experience in bx4x4!! here's a nice video Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robicon Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 I can find SYE stuff for TJ's all the day long but I don't think it's possible with the JKs.. Let alone try to find one that fits a NV241OR rubicon transfer case. JK drive shafts are CV based. Tom Woods (not our Tom!) drive shaft offer the double cadran style. will keep looking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomWood Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Common, you know you want my shaft.........had to be said......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 That is what you need is a double cardan style rear driveshaft. The CV style does not like the change in working angles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Common, you know you want my shaft.........had to be said......... No, Robbie specifically stated NOT yours, haha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomWood Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 He is just hiding his real feelings, we all know that a Tom Wood's shaft is the best shaft around Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autumnwalker Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 You guys just hit a whole new low hahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Take a look at your rear again Robbie. I mean driveshaft! You may not have a slip yoke but a flange or other style. Then you would not need a SYE, but a double cardan style shaft has more flex than a 2 U-Joint shaft. However, and there always is a however, when you switch to a CD style driveshaft you should point your rear pinion at the transfer case. This is easily done with leaf springs by installing shims. Probably not so with coils! But now that you know, you can keep researching! Any suspension lift manufacturer for the JK should mention what you need to do. Research driveshaft geometry and it should pop right up. Double Cardan is often listed as a CV style driveshaft, not to be confused with a CV joint in a front wheel drive style axle shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robicon Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 LMAO :smiley-laughing021: no thanks Tom. I knew that was going to happen! HA! Thanks for the Advice folks! Probably will go with the Tom Woods Drive shaft. Not the Tom Wood shaft ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robicon Posted March 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 So the front drive shaft was removed today and sure enough the noise was gone. The slip yoke doesn't slip anymore... that is the problem. Tom Woods makes the RC drive shafts. One has been ordered from RC. My only concern now is did I do any damage to my transfer case? Hopefully not... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 Are you running adjustable arms? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robicon Posted March 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 Are you running adjustable arms? no adjustables just stock arms. Only mods have been shocks and springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted March 19, 2015 Report Share Posted March 19, 2015 That's what I thought, but had to ask to be sure. You're extending the OEM joints beyond working limits which is why you are having the issues. I had to install 3* shims under my leaf springs (rear) to correct the pinion angle on my X for this reason. btw, the seals will usually go first, so if your seal at the T-case is not leaking, you have likely not damaged it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robicon Posted March 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2015 no leaks yet so hopefully I don't have any more expensenses! Would be nice to start actually working on my debt lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKWhoo! Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Owns a Jeep, hopes for no more expenses, oh lord. You should know better by now haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robicon Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 yeah I really dont want to be paying for transfer case repairs is what I meant haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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