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The slowest WJ build in history.


derekmac

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Well I figured what the hell, might as well have a build thread for my WJ. Now this won't be an ordinary build thread, oh no. It's going to be the slowest and most boring one in history!! :D

I haven't done all that much to it yet, but I did install a 2" budget boost, bigger than stock tires and trimmed the front bumper.

Here it is, not too long after we got it. It was all shiny, no scratches, dents or rust.

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One of the first things I did was to Plasti-Dip the emblems as they looked pretty bad.

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I also Plasti-Dipped the fuel door, and since I had it, put a Monster sticker on it.

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The next thing I did was get tires for it. For some reason, the almost bald all seasons on it didn't fare too well in the mud.

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Looked a little more like a Jeep should.

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After that, I also Plasti-Dipped the rims as I'm not really a fan of chrome.

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And I also installed my 2" lift.

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I also thought I should install a CB, and my parents happened to have an old (verrrrrry old) one that they gave me.

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I made a sliding tray to store crap on in the back.

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I got tired of the tires rubbing on the front bumper, so I gave it a trim.

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That's about two years worth of work. Like I said, a sloooow build.

I have two things on my next to do list, just not sure which I want to do first.

Install 4" Rough Country X-Series lift

or

Install rear locker.

It's a toss up as it's done ok height wise, so that kind of makes me lean towards the locker first. That and the locker cost less than half of what the lift will cost.

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I got it in the states. Home Hardware has it here, but it's around $20 a can. I paid $4.99 or $5.99 a can, and no tax in New Hampshire.

I know I'd like to run harder trails, but in all honesty, I quite enjoy the easier trails too. I just like getting out for the day and enjoying some time offroad. I could always go as a passenger for the hard trails too, and I could take more pics that way. :D

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where did you buy your plasti-dip?i cant find it anywhere.

PartsSource sells it now too, but it is also around $20/can :(.

I too have a slow build; it's taken 4+ years to get here & I'm still planning (scheming).

Who are you kidding? Like me, you really haven't done hardly anything for a lllllooooonnnnnggggg time :P. That is soon to change for me, and as soon as you get some steel for your sliders, it will change for you too ;) .

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PartsSource sells it now too, but it is also around $20/can :(.

Who are you kidding? Like me, you really haven't done hardly anything for a lllllooooonnnnnggggg time :P. That is soon to change for me, and as soon as you get some steel for your sliders, it will change for you too ;) .

hahahahahahaha Got you folks beat by a generation. I've owned the Burb since 1997 or 1998, and I'm not even close to being done!

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There is nothing wrong with slow builds. You get time to get to know your rig and it's (and your) capabilities, allowing you to map out what is next for it :) .

And yes Eugene, I think you are the "King of the Slow Build" ;) . Alot of the guys here right now weren't even driving yet when you got and started on the 'Burb :P!

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Derek, that's a really old CB, it probably only gets black & white channels. LOL :king:

:smiley-laughing021: :smiley-laughing021: :smiley-laughing021: I damn near spit out my coffee when I read that!!! :smiley-laughing021: :smiley-laughing021: :smiley-laughing021:

I figure it's about 40 years old. I think I'd win the prize of who has the oldest CB!! :D

There is nothing wrong with slow builds. You get time to get to know your rig and it's (and your) capabilities, allowing you to map out what is next for it :) .

That's a very good point! I don't mind going slow at it. Even just doing little things, like mounting tools in the hatch area makes me happy for awhile.

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I was thinking why my build has been slow. Everyone I know has the lack of time / funding issue. My other biggest reasons are the truck is

stored 20 mins away from me. 'Prep' time is noticeable. The other issue is I've had to repair a lot of rust over the years! One pretzel shaped body cross member took a while to fit and install, under the floor.

Prep time - several weeks ago I wanted to work on the truck on Saturday in the garage. I drove over Friday night, 20 min drive. Start the furnace. Put on my garage clotes that are literally frozen, we don't heat the garage when not in use. Shovel the 'vehicle compund' gates clear of snow. Use a step ladder to clear the snow off the vehicle! Pop the hood and hook up the battery, we always disconnect them when storing for more than a week. Start the truck and let the carb warm up a bit. Take it for a short drive to break everthing loose, a half km. Come back, close the compund gates, open the garage door and drive the truck in.

Close the garage doors (barn door style), use the step ladder to hook them at the top, and hang the big ex-movie-set black curtain that we use as a wind break because the doors are not perfectly weather tight. (The garage is big, it was built to accommoate a dump truck.)

Unlock the rest of the vehicle doors (no power locks), and open the windows a bit . Do some work on the upper side, because it will thaw out and melt off before working underneath! Later, clean up tools, switch clothes, turn off the furnace, lock garage door, drive 20 mins back home.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I found a place in Quebec that has the old Rough Country 4" lift that they are clearing out as RC brought out a new kit that is replacing it. It's $449, and with shipping will bring it right around the $500 range. That's $250 cheaper than the one I was going to get.

The only thing is, it comes with a drop pitman arm, and a track bar drop bracket instead of an adjustable track bar. Even if I order an adjustable track bar, it'll still be around $100 cheaper.

Some people run it with the drop bracket/pitman arm, but I think I'd rather have an adjustable track bar instead of installing the drop pitman arm and track bar drop bracket.

Not sure if I'm going to order it or not, but am strongly thinking about it.

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Well I finally ordered a transfer case skid plate, and it was under $70 from the dealership. It's not as good as the aftermarket ones out there, but it's about a third the cost, and definitely better than nothing.

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I contacted RC about the old 4" lift, and they said that it wouldn't be supported anymore for warranty as they were not going to be making anymore bushings for it. They said you'd probably have to replace the components if the bushings failed.

Looks like I'll be saving for the X-series, which in all honesty, is the one I should get anyways, I was just trying to be cheap! :D

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I'd say locker first without a doibt. Then work on improving your skills to compensate the lower groud clearance. Use the locker to help get out when you've pushed youself or your truck a bit too far!

If they were available and reasonably priced, I would put A LOT of thought into a locker for the Rover...

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Just when I thought I had my mind made up choosing the lift, I'm back to thinking about it again. :D I know the Jeep fairly well now, and how to choose a good line, and what I can and can't clear. Even with the 2" lift I have in it, the Grand sits really low though because of the stupid transmission cross member. It's a piss poor design, and hangs much lower then it needs to.

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Ok, for now I'm scrapping the idea of getting a lift first. I've had too much thought in the wrong places I think. Right now, the next best thing will be to get rock rails made for it I think. I posted the question on Pirate Jeep, Lift or Locker first, and Jeff had a great response:

Lift will NOT make the Jeep any more capable, just lifts the body and raises the center of gravity but doesn't get your axles up any higher.
Like I said in my first post, "rock rails". IMO, one of the first three mods that should be on EVERY Jeep. Once you have rock rails you can pretty much go anywhere without fear of damaging your rig. If you get to an obstacle that your axles won't clear you can then put your wheel on the highest part of the obstacle, drive over it and use your rock rail/slider to do the rest and you'll clear the obstacle. Having that rear locker will help push you over it (Front locker would be my preference but rear is more DD friendly)


I'm thinking of just going with a simple design for them, like this here:

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These will also serve as a good lift point for a high lift jack, which my Grand currently has no spot that one could be used on it.

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Just an observation Derek, using the 2"x 2" to act as a rail and be positioned under your rocker panel area is a good start, but, a Hi-Lift won't be able to work for you. Your Grand is like mine, curved sides, not flat like a Wrangler. You need the outrigger, like I have, to give the jaw of the jack something to grab while keeping the jack vertical. Like I said on Pirate Jeep, the outriggers also give my doors a few extra inches of protection from rocks and trees. Alan does great fab work and he's done a lot of armour for GCs.

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