TRUXterra Posted May 11, 2013 Report Share Posted May 11, 2013 Wait, I just re-read your post that again, someone hit you? If so, take it to the dealership for an estimate. As in a thread that FLTLNR posted about an accident he was in, there are several things you can't see that could cost lost of $$ to fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Potato Digger Posted May 11, 2013 Report Share Posted May 11, 2013 Take an x measurement of your frame from same location on both sides, front left to rear right and front right to rear left and see if it is the same. Usually a hit it the tire like that will twist the frame out of place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2013 Did you look at your driveshaft ujoints? They can make that sound when shot. I did look at them and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. Will put it up on stands tomorrow and have a closer work. Yeah, something rally not right there. The click is certainly pronounced. You need another set of eyes to be outside the Fronty while the other changes gears in order to determine where the sound is coming from. If the rear axle is shifted at all, there are several parts that will cause that sound, and James is right on with is being the u-joint. Could also be a broken centre bolt on the spring pack causing it to shift when you go from D to R. Will check the spring bolt tomorrow as well, had a co-worker look under while I was shifting but it was night shift and we both were tired so I will get my brother to look tomorrow and see if we can narrow it down a bit. Wait, I just re-read your post that again, someone hit you? If so, take it to the dealership for an estimate. As in a thread that FLTLNR posted about an accident he was in, there are several things you can't see that could cost lost of $$ to fix. Yeah they hit my tire/panel with their front end, I have already informed my insurance so hopefully they will arrange something so I can get it looked at. Take an x measurement of your frame from same location on both sides, front left to rear right and front right to rear left and see if it is the same. Usually a hit it the tire like that will twist the frame out of place. Will do it tomorrow, hopefully it's not a twisted frame. Impact wasn't to severe (I didn't think it was anyways) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autumnwalker Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Really sounds like something broken in the axle, but it's hard to say without seeing it in person. It does not really sound like gears to me as the noise would be more muted (inside the differential - in fluid). I'd have it checked ASAP - depending on what it is you could be making it worse. When were you in the accident? Did I miss the post about it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLAZZING-XJ Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 U joint ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 So I took a look underneath today in a bit more detail and here are my findings: I noticed that both drive shafts have some play in them (nothing out of the ordinary), when measuring from the centre of the wheel to the bottom of the fender the impacted side is 1/4" lower (on level ground, although the panel could have buckled giving me different readings). I followed Ron's advice on doing an X Measurement and found that there is a 1/2" difference in the measurements (although I believe that could be within the margin of error). I checked the U-bolts: They appear to be fine, no noticeable issues on any of them other then "new metal" showing. The impacted spring pack: Again with the rotation issue lol IMO there appears to be a fair amount of empty space there (maybe it's normal though) The rear axle: Doesn't appear to be bent. The Rear Diff Housing: The air filter: I add this because I haven't seen "colors" (other then brown :P) in an air filter before. The only thing I noticed here was the "new metal" appearance on the axle where it enters into the housing (looks the same on both sides, again it may be normal) Thats what I found out today, I'm still stumped by this, although I have my suspicions on what is causing this. I'm going in tomorrow to coachworks (they're doing the repairs through my insurance company) to let them have a look and go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2013 Just a bit of an update: I reported the new issue's to my insurance company and the place doing the repairs and was told "we will look at it when we get it into the shop" and was told it was ok to continue to drive it (although I explained I did not want to do additional damage). I had a buddy look/listen underneath the truck while shifting from D to R and he said that popping noise is coming from the transfer case, not the rear diff. So that above noise (the video of the popping noise) has disappeared after going on the highway and making a loud popping noise on the on ramp. I do notice that it is revving higher then usual and at times it feels like I'm pulling a trailer (although I'm not), it seems to hesitate when accelerating (engine revs then I can feel it catching shortly afterwards) also now that "ticking" noise coming from the rear is much more pronounced (only way to describe it like a card attached to a bike by the spokes so it hits them, except its more metallic) and every now and again I think I can hear metal chips bouncing around somewhere (not very loud and its hard to tell where or what the noise is/coming from) Finally, the rear feels like its going to fall off everytime I go over a bump (feels like the axle is dropping freely and the frame is falling on top of it) Who knew a "minor" accident could cause this much havoc and internal issues. 4LO also bucks alot and shifts at 1200-1500 RPM very roughly and when I let it coast it does the same while down shifting. (could be normal due to not being in 4LO for a very long time) Anyways it should be going in tomorrow so I'll let ya's know what is causing this, should be interesting........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted May 19, 2013 Report Share Posted May 19, 2013 Do you get provided with a rental when it goes into the shop? Was this mishap your fault, or the Civic's. By the sounds of it, you should take it and leave it at the shop, if a rental is provided (even if not, probably). I would INSIST upon it, if the accident was the other car's fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2013 Do you get provided with a rental when it goes into the shop? Was this mishap your fault, or the Civic's. By the sounds of it, you should take it and leave it at the shop, if a rental is provided (even if not, probably). I would INSIST upon it, if the accident was the other car's fault. I do get provided with a rental and this mishap was the Civic's fault, I'm thinking it will be getting dropped off tomorrow. Don't wan't to do to much additional damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted May 19, 2013 Report Share Posted May 19, 2013 Here's my "forecast" Rear end shifted causing the u-joint to tick (card in spokes sound). The impact was hard enough to fubar the Transfer case output bearing (as you have been driving since) and that is the popping noise you hear when shifting from D to R OR the clunk is from the u-joint "unloading". The Nissan Nanny (AKA CPU) is sensing irregularity from various sensors (mostly the output shaft, and wheel sensors) and pulling power when you accelerate. This is a known condition when a T-case output bearing is worn/damaged/deformed or you are running mis-matched wheels. The "bucking" in 4LO is coming from a wheel that is turning "fewer rotations" than the others. I experienced this first hand when I had to use the OEM spare (31"), with my 33's. The CPU has such finite tolerances that the uneven revolutions are causing the CPU to pull the power to the other wheels cause it thinks it is slipping. Even a 32" spare with 33's on the other 3 corners will cause the same issue! EDIT TO ADD (ETA:) Take it to the Dartmouth Nissan dealership! I'll post back the name of the mechanic (think it begins with a J). Before it was gobbled up, he worked for Heritage Nissan in D'Town and place 3rd in a global competition that Nissan held in Japan! When I was in HRM, all of my appointments were with him...and I made a point to be sure that he was the only person to touch my vehicle! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2013 EDIT TO ADD (ETA:) Take it to the Dartmouth Nissan dealership! I'll post back the name of the mechanic (think it begins with a J). Before it was gobbled up, he worked for Heritage Nissan in D'Town and place 3rd in a global competition that Nissan held in Japan! When I was in HRM, all of my appointments were with him...and I made a point to be sure that he was the only person to touch my vehicle! That's where I bought my rig from and have been going back ever since (except for oil change, like AMS Oil). I think I know the mechanic your talking about and he is really good and won't BS you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 So I had it in for maintenance the other day and we (myself and mechanic) took it for a spin (of course the noise was not there) but he mentioned that it is most likely the U-Joint, due to there being a lack of a whining noise to indicate a gear issue. Although the tranny likes to stick in gear while on the highway above 4000RPM's, we took it back and I left it in their capable hands. 3 hours later they told me that the rear you joint is toast and are replacing it later this week. I took it in today (to get the rear quarter panel replaced) and noticed that my rear diff lock will not engage as usual, eventually I got it to engage but then the issue was getting it to dis-engage. I noticed that the ABS, diff lock, VDC, SLIP and all the other lights associated with using the diff lock remained on even after putting it back into 2WD. Eventually it did dis-engage though. The highway issue with the tranny sticking at 4000-5000ROM (while doing 90km/h) seemed to be resolved by turning off the O/D, as soon as I do everything returns to normal. Anyways that's the latest and they gave me a RWD Ford F150 Regular Cab (very Base model) and the above has been passed on to the ones doing the repair so we'll see. On a side note, I'm gonna be getting new brake pads and decided to replace the rotors at the same time (upgrade performance and slotted to clear mud away). I'm thinking EBC sport rotors and Greenstuff 7000 pads but am open to other suggestions. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 By mechanic, I hope you are referring to the dealership. We do not have a rear u-joint on the drive shaft, it's a sealed CV joint that cannot be replaced! Your 4WD problems are common when an ABS line is broken. The Nissan ALBS system will also make the trans "hang" at high RPM's given the speed reading differential between wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 By mechanic, I hope you are referring to the dealership. We do not have a rear u-joint on the drive shaft, it's a sealed CV joint that cannot be replaced! Your 4WD problems are common when an ABS line is broken. The Nissan ALBS system will also make the trans "hang" at high RPM's given the speed reading differential between wheels. Yes I mean the dealership, I may have to look again but I am sure both the propeller shaft and main drive shaft are U-Joints (I've seen CV Joint's up front but not the rear) now I could be getting lost in the terminology as well. Now if an ABS line is broken shouldn't, in theory my ABS light come on? What would cause a speed differential between the rear wheels? I would guess that if the rear diff was not operating properly that could cause a speed difference. Thanks for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Rear shaft is a CV And for the ABS line, the code does not always get thrown right away. In some cases, the light never comes on or it comes on after a few hundred kms. There was a thread on it on the Xterra forum a year ago (give or take). I'll see if I can find it today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomWood Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Now just as a not, you guys are comparing models 4 years different, it is possible they changed the shafts in the Frontier since the Xterra was made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Rear shaft is a CV Correct, at the differential end, and mid-point, but not at the TC end. These pics are from a 2010 Frontier... ...This one... Rear Differential end... Mid @ the steady bearing... And at the transfercase end (hey what is that there? ;))... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomWood Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Great pics james! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 If you look at that last pic, the U-Joint, it looks like the needle bearing cup is broken on the bottom................ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 If you look at that last pic, the U-Joint, it looks like the needle bearing cup is broken on the bottom................ Ha!! I didn't even look at it very close :P! I should probably let Ryan know to get it looked at. Thanks Eugene B)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Aside from the length and the use of a carrier/steady bearing on the Frontier, all 05+ Nissan Pathfinders, Xterra & Frontiers use a CV joint at the rear of the shaft. It helps to reduce vibrations, however, they cannot be replaced so you either have to buy a new/used shaft or have some custom fab done. Some people go to a double cardan at that point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 And for the ABS line, the code does not always get thrown right away. In some cases, the light never comes on or it comes on after a few hundred kms. There was a thread on it on the Xterra forum a year ago (give or take). I'll see if I can find it today I'll search that forum as well just to see, that's interesting but makes sense. There I learned something today lol Correct, at the differential end, and mid-point, but not at the TC end. These pics are from a 2010 Frontier... ...This one... 2013-05-28 10.22.26.jpg And at the transfercase end (hey what is that there? ;))... 2013-05-28 10.20.48.jpg Now I'm not questioning anybody's knowledge nor do I intend to offend anyone with the U-Joint/CV Joint issue but my propeller shaft and drive shaft both have U-joint's at both ends. James I know that those are from the same year frontier as mine but my drive line looks nothing like the pictures at all. From the front diff I have a propeller shaft with U-Joints coming from the diff and into the TC, from the TC I have a U-Joint connecting the drive shaft and at the end of that going into the rear Diff I have another U-Joint. Mid @ the steady bearing... this does not exist on mine, just a drive shaft from TC to rear Diff. Nothing resembles that setup at all. Rear Differential end... My rear end looks completely different from that setup, just has U-Joints Again with the rotation issue......not a great picture but its the only one I have at the moment, just under (on top and to the right with this pic) my exhaust you can see my drive shaft connected to the rear diff. My theory....and this is only a theory is the different trim levels. While we are comparing a LE (looks like in the picture) with a PRO-4X/NISMO (Offroad edition) and in the non-offroad models they have it set up one way while the offroad models are setup another way. I appreciate all the feedback and I am learning alot from you guys when it comes to these things :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted May 28, 2013 Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Well, obviously we're learning something too :p I never knew that the Fronty's came with a U-joint. I'll have to look more into this cause when/if I lift the rear of the X by 4" or more, I need to have a custom shaft made. May be it's easier to have a shaft from a Fronty cut to size an re-welded/balanced to work on my X...interesting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2013 Haha its good we are all learning, was confused there for a bit. That's gonna look good up 4", my dream is to do a Titan swap really like the look of it and capabilities. PRG has a nice kit but I'm not gonna lie I do find myself checking out junk yards just hoping I find a Titan haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2013 Finally got my new LED light and my truck back lol Didn't have it back for 10 mins and I had the grill off. Light mounted Just the light on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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