2010 Frontier Pro 4X

[Command]

Figure this is probably going to be the best spot to put this since it is my little project and its easier to ask questions here (they'll be a few of them) instead of starting a new thread everytime and clogging up the forums. I'll briefly run through what I have done so far and will update this as required. I appreciate everyones advice thus far and in the future.

Stuck in Rawdon :)

When I first got her, It came from the factory with skid plates, 4H, 4LO, VDC, electric rear locker, bigger tires, bilstein shocks amongst a few other things.

There she is today. So what's different? Well first it's the lift kit 2.5" in the front 1.5" in the rear, I also shaved the splash guard on the front bumper to help with approach angles. Then it's the offroad lights, dual 10" LED (brand unknown) in the front hooked up to a switch (more to come no doubt lol). I added a warning system with a mini lightbar, traffic director, louder horn and multiple surface mount lights (all LED of course). I also added a GPS, CB Radio and external antenna, Scanner and external antenna, short ram intake and the tools....oh my the tools. I don't think there is any space that doesn't have something crammed in there lol

Thats where I am today and as things start to break down (shocks, springs, brakes etc) I want to use this to get ideas from people who have the experience and opinions on the project at hand, so I don't clutter the forums up by posting new threads for everything. Also would like to run ideas by you guys and gals and am open to ideas as well. Thanks everyone!

[TRUXterra]

Smart idea! Got lots of info for you so ask away when it comes to the 05+ Nissans! I've had mine for 4+ years now.

A couple things I'll note in the area of performance gains:

- as mentioned in your exhaust thread, get rid of the OEM Y pipe when you add a new muffler, the gains are immediately noticeable especially from 2k rpms+.

- consider purchasing an IMS (Intake Manifold Spacer), the gains are also very noticeable.

- finally, a programmer to tune the ECU. I have a Superchips cortex and it also made a significant difference. They pop up for sale on the Xterra forum at a cost of $200-$250 + shipping (almost $400 new). BullyDog is another option and in hind sight, I would have purchased one solely because they have the ability to monitor the temp in the transmission. Both can also pull codes and reset the system so it's a 2 in one reader/programmer.

Next time we get together, you can take my X for a spin to compare the difference, and I can also de-tune my rig and install the tune into yours so you can try it before you buy it.

[Command]

as mentioned in your exhaust thread, get rid of the OEM Y pipe when you add a new muffler, the gains are immediately noticeable especially from 2k rpms+.

That I plan on doing tomorrow, off till saturday so taking advantage of that :). Plan is to cut off the Y and go magnaflow 2 in 2 out design and route the second pipe out alongside the stock pipe.

consider purchasing an IMS (Intake Manifold Spacer), the gains are also very noticeable.

I have heard mixed things about these, how do they work? I googled it and I get varying results lol

finally, a programmer to tune the ECU. I have a Superchips cortex and it also made a significant difference. They pop up for sale on the Xterra forum at a cost of $200-$250 + shipping (almost $400 new). BullyDog is another option and in hind sight, I would have purchased one solely because they have the ability to monitor the temp in the transmission. Both can also pull codes and reset the system so it's a 2 in one reader/programmer.

I recently picked up a code reader and can connect the truck directly to a computer (to read codes and what have you) now do I just need programming software or is it more complicated then that? (i.e. i have to buy a programmer)

Thanks TRUXterra! As always I appreciate your input.

[BLAZZING-XJ]

your code reader only tells u why your check engen light is on,

u sill need a programmer.

[TRUXterra]

haha, no problem, You could be confusing throttle body spacers with intake spacers. check the thread here

http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52189

I have one and the difference is certainly noticeable!

As for readers, they are not programmers. Programmers as specific to a certain vehicle, readers are generic in that they read OBD II codes for any vehicle.

Do yourself a favour and flog the sh!t out of you Fronty (observing the laws obviously) and then do the same after the exhaust is done. With the intake side already done, you'll notice a significant gain from 2k rpms plus...it'll pull much harder & faster than before.

ETA: Just noticed that the link I posted is a member only link. Here is a link to the same info

http://extremetruckperformance.com/?page_id=6

[Command]

your code reader only tells u why your check engen light is on,

u sill need a programmer.

I realize that, I was just wondering since I have a cable that will plug into the OBDII port and my computer (by passing the reader altogether) if I could download software to program the ECU.

So....I got my exhaust done, went from a simple idea to essentially a custom cat back system (go figure). I am quite pleased with it thus far and I'm just looking for an excuse to give 'er now lol.

The old exhaust was cut off along with the Y and in it's place a new 2.5" cat back system (managed to use the old piping from the axle back which saved a fair amount) and of course a magnaflow muffler.

My old muffler and Y pipe. BTW if anyone is looking for an stock muffler for a Nissan I know where they can find one lol

The new stuff. ^^^ Not sure why that one is upside down, it's not on my computer. You get the jist of it though.

[TRUXterra]

Well holy Fark...doesn't that look familiar :P

Glad you went that way. Have you noticed the gain in pick-up from 2k+, as in how much more quickly you find the redline?

As for stock, I've been posting my OEM crap on kijiji for the past 3 years (still sitting in my shed) and not a single hit. If you manage to sell yours before I do, kudos!

What was the final bill, if you don't mind sharing? And what shop?

The only difference I see between our set-ups is that mine is built from the cat flanges back, yours is added after the OEM connectors.

[autumnwalker]

You take those pics with an iPhone?

A lot of times the iPhone / Windows / Mac will remember the rotation of the photo and when you post it online they get rotated "the right way" whereas the iPhone / computer compensates when viewing.

[Command]

Well holy Fark...doesn't that look familiar :P

Glad you went that way. Have you noticed the gain in pick-up from 2k+, as in how much more quickly you find the redline?

As for stock, I've been posting my OEM crap on kijiji for the past 3 years (still sitting in my shed) and not a single hit. If you manage to sell yours before I do, kudos!

What was the final bill, if you don't mind sharing? And what shop?

The only difference I see between our set-ups is that mine is built from the cat flanges back, yours is added after the OEM connectors.

Noticed a huge difference in pick up and redline's pretty quick lol we also took out the 2.25" piping and replaced everything with 2.5" stainless. You are correct about the difference in our setup, more of a time and money thing really. I opened it up on the highway and it was great, heard something making a rattling noise afterwards while idling but could not determine where it was coming from (sounded like the heat shields, although the dealer removed them all cause the straps kept falling off) but by the time I got home it had stopped and took a peak underneath and everything was still solid, I'll check it again tomorrow.

I went to Mighty Auto on Kempt Rd, I have dealt with Matt before and he knows his stuff, and George did the work and wanted to make sure everything was perfect and worked with me in the shop and showed me what he wanted to do and why. All in all everything came to just under $600 (muffler, all the stainless, hangers, labour etc) took about 2 hours to do.

You take those pics with an iPhone?

A lot of times the iPhone / Windows / Mac will remember the rotation of the photo and when you post it online they get rotated "the right way" whereas the iPhone / computer compensates when viewing.

No I have a blackberry (shut up I like it....leave me alone lol) yea it was just that photo, i'll rotate it so its upside down so when it uploads it'll be right haha

[Potato Digger]

No I have a blackberry (shut up I like it....leave me alone lol) yea it was just that photo, i'll rotate it so its upside down so when it uploads it'll be right haha

Ya have to do everything backwards and upside down huh! LOL!

[Command]

Ya have to do everything backwards and upside down huh! LOL!

post-710-0-02929800-1355608878_thumb1.jpg

Haha it appears that way!

[Command]

Ok, so my next thing I'm gonna do is skid plates. After my adventure over the weekend and seeing so many spots I wanna go and play I figure it might be a good idea to upgrade my skid plates to custom ones. Ideally I would skid plate the entire underside but that is a fair amount of work (although my plan aint all that far off). My plan is to keep the factory oil pan/rad skid (seems to be holding up alright) and to replace the rest from the transfer case back to the gas tank with one piece of steel (or material of choice) essentially enclosing the underside in one piece from axle to axle, thus protecting essentially everything and would prevent me from getting hung up on well pretty much anything. So a few things I would like to ask:

A. Is this practical

B. Is this a good idea? (I.e. not messing up my aerodynamics)

C. Material (want to keep things as ligh as possible)

D: Thickness of material

E: Plan on using existing Bolts/mounts, will that be enough to hold everything on or should I drill additional holes. (pretty sure I know the answer lol)

Also I plan on making rock sliders a part of the plates, so the plate would extend out and angled up to protect the rocker panels. Is that a good idea or should I just leave it flat and extend it out to the edge of the rocker panels and flush mount the skid plate?

Once again I appreciate all comments and your guys' help!

[TRUXterra]

Don't mean to burst your bubble, but you're logic is not correct ;)

Most important skid is the engine, followed closely by the rad skid. Although these 2 skids should operate in conjunction with each other. The OEM crap is nothing more than splash shields intended to keep rocks away from vital components while travelling gravel roads at 50 km/h.

Your rock sliders should be independent of other skids as well. You want a set that will weld to the frame, or bolt with the proper plates.

As always, hit me up with Nissan questions, while your Fronty is a bit different than my X, they share the same platform. I'll always steer you in the right direction! BTW...remember the exhaust questions you had?; and how happy you are now... sorry but I have to lol. I've owned my X for over 4 years, I know this crap inside and out ;)

[Command]

Don't mean to burst your bubble, but you're logic is not correct ;)

Lol, bubble ain't burst. My logic is rarely correct. :P

Most important skid is the engine, followed closely by the rad skid. Although these 2 skids should operate in conjunction with each other. The OEM crap is nothing more than splash shields intended to keep rocks away from vital components while travelling gravel roads at 50 km/h.

Totally agree, although they have held up thus far so I will give them some credit. Ideally I would like to combine the 2 (make them into one skid)

Your rock sliders should be independent of other skids as well. You want a set that will weld to the frame, or bolt with the proper plates.

Ok, fair enough. Makes sense.

As always, hit me up with Nissan questions, while your Fronty is a bit different than my X, they share the same platform. I'll always steer you in the right direction! BTW...remember the exhaust questions you had?; and how happy you are now... sorry but I have to lol. I've owned my X for over 4 years, I know this crap inside and out ;)

Haha fair enough, I'd be surprised if you didn't mention that. Ok so what material would be best for the engine skid (and the rest) and thickness? I could get aftermarket ones I guess but would it be cheaper to make them myself (with help of course)? Now that has me thinking.......lol

[TRUXterra]

To be blatantly truthful, buy from a company who already makes them in the US. You'll pay more, yes, but they will bolt up. TRUST ME on this...I sourced a local company with bending ability and all the equipment required to build a complete set of skids and the cost was 2X as much! The engine skid alone requires 6 bends let alone test fitting.

3/16"s is the norm for skids. The only difference between the X & the Fronty is the gas tank cause its further back. Here's a pic to show the layout (on an Xterra). The bends necessary to make it fit together using OEM mounting points make it crazy stupid to make it yourself...unless you are a fabricator by trade, which is where these products came from!

[Command]

Valid point, I looked at the ones from Shrockworks and for the Oil pan, radiator, gas tank and transfer case its approx. $500 (have a deal on when you order 2 or more you save 10%) plus shipping (which I'm sure will cost more then the skids lol) Might be an easier way like you said, have to take a look around I guess.

[TRUXterra]

Valid point, I looked at the ones from Shrockworks and for the Oil pan, radiator, gas tank and transfer case its approx. $500 (have a deal on when you order 2 or more you save 10%) plus shipping (which I'm sure will cost more then the skids lol) Might be an easier way like you said, have to take a look around I guess.

Have a chat with doms...you can split the cost of brokerage & shipping by combining orders. I may also have 2 additional people interested...

Edit: Shipping for 2 complete sets of skids was just under $250 CDN and that included all costs to my door!

BTW: that was 125 lbs per set from Colorado to Truro, NS Canada!!

[sar4x4]

I agree with TruX. (BTW, I owned an X, here is a pic.) There are a lot of great fabricators in the club. They fix and fab and mod, etc. And some of them have the skills, and tools, and place, and scrape up the time to build full buggies and truggies and what not. For me, I tend to buy ready made stuff. (Everybody's time, money, garage space, etc is all different.) It bolts on quick and fits! I have enough trouble keeping up with the old rusty stuff!

I've brought a lot of stuff in from the States, some shipped direct to me and some I buy through National 4WD out of Fredericton. You see one price. They handle all of the dollar exchange, customs, shipping etc, because they bring stuff in by the truck load. They're buying for 5-6 stores across Canada! It's an option that works for me.

The X......

[TRUXterra]

Command, check out Heftyfabworks as well. A lot faster turn around and just as sturdy as Shrock.

[Command]

So after the civic hit my passenger rear quarter panel/tire I've been playing guess that sound. It's a clicking noise coming from the rear. At first I thought maybe it's some plastic from his car stuck in there somewhere but could not locate any, in fact I couldn't locate any additional damage. I then thought maybe it was my brakes (need to be cleaned so they Creek) but as I listened some more I learned that it is not a Creek that I'm use to, more of a cracking/binding noise. Here is a list I made today while driving around: 1. While shifting from drive to reverse (parking and coasting) creates a loud cracking noise. 2. When accelerating around corners sometimes creates rapid clicking noises. 3. Sometimes heard after going over bumps 4. Sometimes heard at lower speed 5. Heard under hard braking as well I've done some research and I suspect a pinion gear or the spider gears in the rear differential (although I am just basing that on Google) and have no real experience when it comes to this stuff. I have attached a video to better describe the sound.

[TRUXterra]

the vid is private, need to make it public for others to see it. I'm thinking a bent axle which has fubar'd the outer bearing

[Command]

Should work now.

[Command]

Also that would explain why the impacted side sits 1/4 inch lower than the other side.

[Eastcoastcam]

Did you look at your driveshaft ujoints? They can make that sound when shot.

[TRUXterra]

Yeah, something rally not right there. The click is certainly pronounced. You need another set of eyes to be outside the Fronty while the other changes gears in order to determine where the sound is coming from. If the rear axle is shifted at all, there are several parts that will cause that sound, and James is right on with is being the u-joint. Could also be a broken centre bolt on the spring pack causing it to shift when you go from D to R.