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2010 Frontier Pro 4X


Command

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I'm always scared with plugs.  Never had a big issue with iron heads though.  Aluminum, different story! Cross threaded one once.  Eventually sold the car with the plug still cross threaded in!

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Had the plugs blow out of my 5.4 Ford a few times. Factory installed, threads destroyed, coil over plug destroyed, had to helicoil the new plug in, and replace the coil, happened 3 times on 3 different cyls.  Helicoils held up no problems. That is the only plug problems iv ever had with threads in either iron or alumn. Changed the plugs in the the little fords at work the other day, 2013 v6 f150 , had to remove the upper intake plenum, and air intake,/mass air flo sensor, then was able to access the coil over plug and then the plugs. They have around 150,000 kms on them. Plugs were definitely worn,  I wouldn't recommend the v6 Ford f150 to anybody, they are hard on fuel, absolutely no power, and the trans torque converters fail. 

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Wow, never had those problems with plugs luckily.  Sounds like the F150's are just as bad as mine for plug location, here I thought it was a Nissan thing lol.

 

Today I finally got my CV boot back on.  It slipped off a lil while ago (luckily not when I helped with the rescue on Pipeline) and it was a battle (mostly my fault).  The CV bands I bought from princess auto were a PITA to use and kept backing off, went and bought a tool from princess auto (right next to the bands I bought) for them.  Came back and tried again.......yeah no not the right tool for these bands.  Broke 5 bands trying to put them on.  Returned the tool and grabbed some stainless steel cable ties (temporary fix), they didn't work.  Tried good 'ol plastic zip ties and they kinda worked.  Went to part source today and got decent CV boot bands...yay! They didn't have the crimper.....neither did NAPA nor did Canadian Tire. Guess what, these new bands use the tool that I just returned to princess auto.  After another trip over to princess auto it took me all of 15mins to do.

 

CV before hand

20160523_120318.jpg

 

My temporary fix.......very temporary, slipped off as soon as I got to NAPA.

20160523_132826.jpg

 

My permanent (hopefully) fix

20160524_151827.jpg

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totally unrelated related plug story :)

 

my buddy once bought a dual plugged Harley shovelhead from buddy who kept blowing the plug out of the hole in the rear cylinder.

 

Sold it to him for next to nothing, my buddy took the heads off and had the holes tig'd shut, smoothed the combustion chamber, removed one coil and was back on the road for less than 100 bucks :)

 

 

 

 

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8 minutes ago, flibby said:

totally unrelated related plug story :)

my buddy once bought a dual plugged Harley shovelhead from buddy who kept blowing the plug out of the hole in the rear cylinder.

 

Sold it to him for next to nothing, my buddy took the heads off and had the holes tig'd shut, smoothed the combustion chamber, removed one coil and was back on the road for less than 100 bucks :)

 

Thats awesome, especially since its a shovelhead!

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Scott, this is the CV band tool I've had for almost a decade. I've replaced more than a dozen (and no, not on the same vehicle) without any issues. It uses a solid band clamp, not the "notched" type. I paid $10 for it a PA!

CV band.jpg

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That would have made life so much easier! PA did not have that though when I was there, nor did they have any variation of it. I ended up using the crimp on style bands, so far so good lol 

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I haven't used it on the X, but in the past, I've found that the "crimp" style has always been too tight (to fasten), or too loose (to hold). It might have been Canadian Tire where I found that tool as well.

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The crimp on ones I got are actually adjustable, they're slotted so I just adjusted them to the correct size and crimped away.  Makes life easier, I'll have to keep an eye on things just to make sure they hold and do their job.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, so question time.  Had a few things on my mind and can't really find a clear answer on Google so I'm turning to the experts!

 

Question of the First: I currently run 285/75/16 with 1.5" spacers (to clear my tie rods without using a larger rim) and notice alot of scrubbing at full turn (like im in 4x4 all the time) now I know that can't be good for anything so my question is how do I eliminate it?  In my mind whether I use spacers, extended axles or rims with a different backspace it would end with the same result right?  Obviously getting larger rims would solve the issue but they would still require some backspacing.  Would adjustable control arms solve the issue?

 

Question of the Second: With the kit I have on the truck now they recommend I use 315/70R17 tires w/ 17x8 wheels w/ 5” backspacing.  That would be a 35" tire, wondering if I should/would need to re-gear at the larger tire size?  I plan on re-gearing to 3.73 eventually, but will need new tires next year so I might as well get this figured out lol.

 

Question of the Third:  I notice the transmission hangs in gear at completely random intervals.  What would happen is when accelerating (usually to highway speeds on a on-ramp, and on hills) I'll get the RPM's up to about 4000 and when I take my foot off the accelerator it'll hang right in the same rpm area.  When I give er some accelerator it stays in that gear and would increase the RPM as I accelerate (usually goes to the 4500rpm range).  Now doing the exact same thing I'll turn my OD off (increases the rpm by 200) and it'll upshift as normal, once I turn OD back on everything returns to normal.  I suspect a sticky valve or something to do with OD, any ideas?

 

Thanks!

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#3: My '02 would hang in a gear at times as well.  Mostly after a long highway hill.  Had to fiddle as you do get her to shift.  I figured it was the programming.  Sold the truck after 2.5 years for a variety of non-truck issues.

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The tire scrub radius that you are experiencing happens even in stock form, it's just not noticeable, when you lift and add spacers it changes all the geometry in the front end and amplifies the scrub radius. Can you eliminate it? The answer is NO. But having an alignment, and explaining to the technician, not the service advisor your concerns they might be able to adjust some of it out. But a positive adjustment for a condition means a negative effect somewhere else. Taking a bit of camber out will help the scrub some , but may make inner tire wear more present and will have a more wondering feeling at high speed, not dangerous behaviour, just more input from driver. The other solution is to solid axle swap. That, will do wonders for how high you lift , or off set wheel, many advantages for that type of stuff, but will loose the car like ride design and handling, and feeling.

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On 6/13/2016 at 4:54 PM, Command said:

Question of the Third:  I notice the transmission hangs in gear at completely random intervals.  What would happen is when accelerating (usually to highway speeds on a on-ramp, and on hills) I'll get the RPM's up to about 4000 and when I take my foot off the accelerator it'll hang right in the same rpm area.  When I give er some accelerator it stays in that gear and would increase the RPM as I accelerate (usually goes to the 4500rpm range).  Now doing the exact same thing I'll turn my OD off (increases the rpm by 200) and it'll upshift as normal, once I turn OD back on everything returns to normal.  I suspect a sticky valve or something to do with OD, any ideas?

 

Thanks!

Presumably yours is a 2010 so it's had the rad/trans bypass done to stop the SMOD issue that the 2005-2008's had ?

My X had some lockout noise and hanging issues when I acquired it - I think that's why the owner palmed it off onto me. So, I did a couple of oil fill & drain changes and it's been perfect for the last 3 years (touch wood) - worth a try?

 

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3 hours ago, jay said:

Presumably yours is a 2010 so it's had the rad/trans bypass done to stop the SMOD issue that the 2005-2008's had ?

My X had some lockout noise and hanging issues when I acquired it - I think that's why the owner palmed it off onto me. So, I did a couple of oil fill & drain changes and it's been perfect for the last 3 years (touch wood) - worth a try?

 

I agree with Jay.  Autos are super picky and fluid changes can do wonders. 

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On 6/14/2016 at 4:52 AM, Powerram said:

The tire scrub radius that you are experiencing happens even in stock form, it's just not noticeable, when you lift and add spacers it changes all the geometry in the front end and amplifies the scrub radius. Can you eliminate it? The answer is NO. But having an alignment, and explaining to the technician, not the service advisor your concerns they might be able to adjust some of it out. But a positive adjustment for a condition means a negative effect somewhere else. Taking a bit of camber out will help the scrub some , but may make inner tire wear more present and will have a more wondering feeling at high speed, not dangerous behaviour, just more input from driver. The other solution is to solid axle swap. That, will do wonders for how high you lift , or off set wheel, many advantages for that type of stuff, but will loose the car like ride design and handling, and feeling.

 

Appreciate your input! I figured you cant get rid of it but maybe make it less noticeable would be good.  I'll have to look into that when I do an alignment again.  Doing a SAS is not something I will be doing soon, although after seeing Jay do his makes me want to do mine now badly! Thanks Jay :P 

 

On 6/15/2016 at 3:10 AM, jay said:

Presumably yours is a 2010 so it's had the rad/trans bypass done to stop the SMOD issue that the 2005-2008's had ?

My X had some lockout noise and hanging issues when I acquired it - I think that's why the owner palmed it off onto me. So, I did a couple of oil fill & drain changes and it's been perfect for the last 3 years (touch wood) - worth a try?

 

 

You're correct, it is 2010.  From my research they fixed the SMOD issue at some point in the 2009/2010 production, I cannot verify mine due to the serial number being way to worn to read.  I have been keeping a close eye on the coolant and have noticed nothing out of the ordinary.

 

On 6/15/2016 at 6:13 AM, Brunet-Hemi said:

I agree with Jay.  Autos are super picky and fluid changes can do wonders. 

 

I've had the tranny drained and filled a few times and it seemed to do nothing, maybe I'll take er in and get it flushed right out.

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14 hours ago, Command said:

Doing a SAS is not something I will be doing soon, although after seeing Jay do his makes me want to do mine now badly! Thanks Jay :P

 

HEY! don't blame me for the SAS, blame peer pressure : P

SASing my X was a no-brainer tho, given it's beaten up body work, low resale monetary value and the work/cost required to fix 3 years of abused, messed up, over extended, beaten up IFS components.

SASing your Fronty would be killer tho...just saying ;)

 

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No offence to either Command or Jay.  But as Jay suggests, you have to be able to 'write-it-off' before considering an SAS swap.  Once attempting an SAS it might never run again, it may be delegated to off road only, etc, or even if you decide to sell it, it may not garner as much $ as if in stock form.  Or in Jay's case, it may fetch more for sale as a beater than it would as a street only vehicle!

No offence folks!
Just sayin'!

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3 hours ago, sar4x4 said:

No offence to either Command or Jay.  But as Jay suggests, you have to be able to 'write-it-off' before considering an SAS swap.  Once attempting an SAS it might never run again, it may be delegated to off road only, etc, or even if you decide to sell it, it may not garner as much $ as if in stock form.  Or in Jay's case, it may fetch more for sale as a beater than it would as a street only vehicle!

No offence folks!
Just sayin'!       

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