Command Posted March 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 19 hours ago, 82Yota said: If you need some I can probably lend you some, I'd have to ask a buddy first seeing they are his haha haha fair enough, yeah I was thinking about it and I decided I had to go outside and check the strut setup.......wasn't even close to my imagination lol. I wont be doing it anytime soon but I will keep you in mind and appreciate the offer! 11 hours ago, Brunet-Hemi said: Princess has cheap ones for like 20 bucks. Also you should see if you can find a complete assembly in the aftermarket world. Sometimes you can find cheaper assemblies than what the dealer charges just for the strut. And the after market are usually better. Yeah I've looked around. Looked at the Rancho Quickstrut, Radflo's, Profender, Bilstein, King and Fox. Been looking at the Bilstein 5100's and might paint the coils while I have them off. The only complete assembly I've found so far has been Rancho. 9 hours ago, autumnwalker said: Is it an assembled strut? You don't need a compressor to remove a strut from the vehicle ... only if you are disassembling the strut itself. No, its more or less a coilover. I thought I might have lucked out until I took a closer look and discovered that the strut and coil are separate. 18 minutes ago, TRUXterra said: I have a set of spring compression tools but I hate them. Always had the feeling that they would let go especially on the smaller diameter springs with thick coils. I'd recommend removing them and taking them to a shop to use a wall mounted compressor. I paid $30 to do the same swap before I bought my Radflos. It literally took 10 minutes per side to swap in the new bodies. Yeah they're a bit scary looking, I can see what you mean. Ok I'll keep that in mind when the time comes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Ok, time to update this apparently lol. Hmmm were to start, ok well I reinforced my roof rack. Whenever I hit a bump it would bounce and make a horrible knocking noise inside. Just simply put in some self tapping screws to hold it down onto the main supports. I installed flush mount lights on the sides of my roof basket so now I can light up the sides of me as well........sorry lol. Changed the brakes for the first time myself and fixed 2 seized sliders, everything works so much better now lol. To finish things off I painted my hood so that I can reduce glare while playing in sunny weather or at night when I have my roof light bar on. I have to repaint my front bumper due to fading (different bedliner then what I'm using now) Also I'll be replacing struts and UCA's in the near future. Then maybe I'll finally be ready to go and play!!!! Hood before painting Masking the area off Area after sanding All done! Few trouble spots so I may put a finish coat on later. Flush mount lights on the side of the roof basket. Brake time! Yeah I think it's time to replace them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 looks great!! What paint did you use? I'm actually thinking of doing my whole hood as my garage door took out a big chunk of red paint when it was up in the air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 4 minutes ago, jay said: looks great!! What paint did you use? I'm actually thinking of doing my whole hood as my garage door took out a big chunk of red paint when it was up in the air. Thanks! I used bedliner, pretty much use it for everything lol. I use "EZ Liner" impressed with it so far. I used dupli colour bedliner but I found that it peeled and chipped easily. Again that's just my experience though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 I was thinking of a coloured bedliner, but I'm not sure how they look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 They shouldn't look to bad, they'll have the bedliner texture to it but other than that it should be good. Of course the other option is plasti dip. More colour options, although I'm dubious about its durability. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 Ordered some Bilstein 5100's today. Oh I hope they'll be here by the weekend lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted May 16, 2016 Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 U coming on our club run ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 I'm not sure yet. Gonna try but I'm not working so.....you know.....priorities lol If I can I'll be there, hopefully with new struts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Checked my spark plugs today, don't look to bad after 145,000kms. Probably could get some more out of them but I'd rather replace and save myself some headache later on down the road. Went to Nissan and they wanted $36.51 per plug! I'll be hitting up crappy tire in the near future lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 $36 is hard to pay. I hear nothing but whining about non-oem spark plugs on our VG33E's. IDK if the gen2's are as picky ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Well it'll be $250 for all the spark plugs. I've heard the same about the 2nd Gen's being picky, hence why I went to Nissan. I just think $250 for 6 plugs is a tad high imo. I was told that OEM plugs are iridium so I can get iridium plugs of decent quality and I'll be ok. Champion I've been told to stay away from, plus I've had issues with them before. So NGK or Bosch I should be ok with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brunet-Hemi Posted May 18, 2016 Report Share Posted May 18, 2016 Be happy you only have 6. I have 16! Luckilly though the standard copper plug works best in the 5.7. Iridium plugs actually don't work as well according to my research. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 8 hours ago, Command said: Well it'll be $250 for all the spark plugs. I've heard the same about the 2nd Gen's being picky, hence why I went to Nissan. I just think $250 for 6 plugs is a tad high imo. I was told that OEM plugs are iridium so I can get iridium plugs of decent quality and I'll be ok. Champion I've been told to stay away from, plus I've had issues with them before. So NGK or Bosch I should be ok with. Haha! Cheap Champion or NGK coppers for my 4.0L! Tune up costs me less than $30 taxes in ! That is less than the before tax amount on one single Nissan spark plug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 9 hours ago, Eastcoastcam said: Haha! Cheap Champion or NGK coppers for my 4.0L! Tune up costs me less than $30 taxes in ! That is less than the before tax amount on one single Nissan spark plug Lmao, you lucky SOB! the champions didn't even work for my '01 silverado so I don't use them at all anymore. For some reason I can't use copper ones, have to use platinum or iridium. It's a ridiculous price and I can pick up plugs elsewhere for a fraction of the price. I always thought that a spark plug was a spark plug, but apparently times have changed lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 28 minutes ago, Command said: I always thought that a spark plug was a spark plug, but apparently times have changed lol. AFAIK spark plugs have always have different operating characteristics, even copper vs copper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 My 4x4 vehicles aren't that fussy, or maybe I can't tell the difference. But they are 30+ year old carbureted North American vehicles made to run with the lowest common denominator parts, and fuel mileage and exhaust emissions be damned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 $120 is waaaaaaaaay better than $250 haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Hell yes lol. Thanks again! Appreciate your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 No worries man, we're all on a budget Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 So I decided to tackle my spark plugs today.........PITA lol. They technically took me about 1hr to change but I spent 3.5hrs on them due to some issues. I started out by....well getting spark plugs (thank you Mr. 82Yota!) and anti seize. Second I loaded up the 'ol youtube on how to change the passenger side plugs. Grabbed my tools and got to work! Firstly I disconnected the battery. Alright, I'm committed now! I started by removing the cover, 2 bolts and a quick yank and she came right off. Next its time to remove part of the intake by removing the 2 screws and loosening off your hose clamps to the air box and throttle body. Hose clamp locations Everything removed and pushed off to the side and out of the way You may be wondering as to why I'm removing the intake to change plugs.......well the answer is coming......I have about 7 new cuts on my arm because of it lol In the meantime, each plug has a cap on it, so I removed the bolt from each one (replaced one by one so I didn't mix them up) and pulled the boot off of the plug. So the driver's side plugs are pretty easy to do, it's the passenger side where it gets tricky. They're under the intake manifold.....yup. I removed the 2 side bolts then moved topside. Then I removed the bolts from the manifold, which sucked because every single one was seized and everyone made that heart stopping "crack" noise when they broke free. Luckily none sheared off, also disconnect the vac houses (don't have to but its alot easier if you do, I ended up leaving them connected and my arm paid the price in scratches) once that's done disconnect the zip ties that are holding wire bundles onto the rear of the manifold. Then jiggle the manifold loose and hope for the best. I recommend cleaning the area first so that nothing falls down into your intake. Disconnect any harnesses that may be in your way. I also removed the cylinder thingy (no idea what the hell it is, but its indicated by the blue arrow) so I could access the rear bolts easier. Once I got that off it was business as usual, unbolt boots, pull them out, remove spark plugs, apply anti seize to the new plugs, install new plugs, install boots........until one decided to be an SOB. Yup that plug ain't suppose to have a GD rubber gasket, the inner rubber gasket on my spark plug socket decided to fall off and somehow turn inside out around the plug and the boot will not go over it..................yup. Half way through this it decides to just pour out (i'm outside doing this) so after running around and covering everything up and waiting for mother nature to eff off I resumed tackling this conundrum. I couldn't get a ratchet on it due to the rubber covering the socket area, so I hooked up my drill to my socket and spun the rubber boot until it separated enough that I could get the socket to bite. Once that happened I removed the plug along with the rubber, removed the rubber and re-installed the plug. That's the lil effer lol Figuring the worse was over I started to put everything back together. Before buttoning everything up I wanted to make sure that it works, started the truck up but was a weak start and when i pressed the accelerator it would almost stall out. Well turns out the MAF actually needs airflow to send proper signals (I just set the intake in place) So I decided to button everything up before I test again. Test #2 sounded good but my SES light came on FFS, double checked my connections. Turned out my throttle body harness was not fully seated in the connector, test #3 SES light still on, did an ECU reset (gas pedal combination) test #4 SES light still on, disconnected the battery for a few minutes. Test #5 SES light is now off and everything works If you'll excuse imma go crack open a effing beer lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
82Yota Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Nice man, glad to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 10 hours ago, Command said: So I decided to tackle my spark plugs today.........PITA lol. They technically took me about 1hr to change but I spent 3.5hrs on them due to some issues. It's that fun!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Command Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Oh it's a blast and a half lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 I did the same as you; removed the intake...but I was also installing a spacer while I was in there. I've seen where people have done it with a couple flex joints but that seemed to be more of a PITA. Not sure what it is with Nissan, but the seem to hide a plug on most of the V6's. Just ask Jay about the #6 plug on a 3.3L...Lay on your belly on the engine and work blind. That was more of a PITA when I changed the plugs in the old Pathfinder! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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