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2010 Frontier Pro 4X


Command

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1 hour ago, sar4x4 said:

Lol, I meant to say Jay's may be  worth more as a customized off-road vehicle than a daily driver!

 

It depends on worth, it is worth more to whoever built it than someone who is buying it. Don't know it only posted your quote and not what I wrote, oh well. I like SAS , but functionality compared to stock will never be the same for DD use.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Not much of an update/news but got the passenger wheel bearing replaced......and by wheel bearing I mean hub assembly :).  Next is to do all the rear seals (which may be covered under warranty :)).  Also got some Bilstein 5100's on order, fresh from the factory and should be here by the end of the month :).

 

Update on the lights I sent in 2+months ago for warranty work..............still ain't got them.  3 weeks ago I contacted them and he didn't know anything about them.  Few days later I emailed again, said that he is sending them out either Friday or Monday.  Tuesday I got contacted by his admin to confirm my address and was told that they will be sending them out that day.  2 weeks later I contacted him again to follow up on this, I was told.....and I quote....."I'll look it up and shoot it over.  That was to Canada right?" At that point I was pretty pissed off, I sent an email back to him expressing my frustration and dissatisfaction with this ordeal.  Never received a reply.............I'm never seeing those lights again. 

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Lifted Nissan's (05+) with larger tires eat front wheel hubs like CANDY!

 

For the rear axle, have you checked the diff breather cap? If it's seized you'll blow seals. Check for the rear diff breather mod in the event that is what caused your blow out again this time ;).

 

 

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4 hours ago, TRUXterra said:

Lifted Nissan's (05+) with larger tires eat front wheel hubs like CANDY!

 

For the rear axle, have you checked the diff breather cap? If it's seized you'll blow seals. Check for the rear diff breather mod in the event that is what caused your blow out again this time ;).

 

 

 

I haven't had to much trouble with the hubs.  147000kms on er with approx. 30000kms on the lift so it's a toss up between normal wear and tear or lift imo haha.  Oh the rear axle it's my breather, I know that lol.  I usually just clean the truck, spray the underside real good, free up the breather and take it to the dealership.  They replaced it 3 times for me under warranty, not this time though.  My luck must have ran out lol.  Nissan Canada said that originally at the time this issue was thought to effect every Frontier, since then they have narrowed it down to one production line and only cover certain VIN's for this.  That is the only reason why mine won't be done under warranty this time around, which seems fair to me.

 

The breather mod I keep meaning to do but once I get the seals replaced I'll be doing it.

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On ‎05‎/‎07‎/‎2016 at 9:19 PM, Command said:

 

I haven't had to much trouble with the hubs.  147000kms on er with approx. 30000kms on the lift so it's a toss up between normal wear and tear or lift imo haha.  Oh the rear axle it's my breather, I know that lol.  I usually just clean the truck, spray the underside real good, free up the breather and take it to the dealership.  They replaced it 3 times for me under warranty, not this time though.  My luck must have ran out lol.  Nissan Canada said that originally at the time this issue was thought to effect every Frontier, since then they have narrowed it down to one production line and only cover certain VIN's for this.  That is the only reason why mine won't be done under warranty this time around, which seems fair to me.

 

The breather mod I keep meaning to do but once I get the seals replaced I'll be doing it.

I replace a hub every 2 years so you're lucky. Most of my driving is in town though and the roads in Truro are...well let's just say that dirt roads are in better shape ;) 

 

Was it you that got tagged by a car a few years back (I'm too lazy to search..lol)? If so & the leak is on the same side I'd be thinking the axle is tweeked. I'll find the part # for the OEM breather nipple for you in the next few days. It cost me $7 for the part & $10ish for the fuel line & zip ties! Best $20 I ever spent! The end of the hose is wrapped around the light socket of the upper most light of the tail light...if I get into water that deep, the rear diff is the least of my worries!

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On 7/7/2016 at 6:10 PM, TRUXterra said:

I replace a hub every 2 years so you're lucky. Most of my driving is in town though and the roads in Truro are...well let's just say that dirt roads are in better shape ;) 

 

In all fairness It could have been bad for awhile and I just discovered it recently haha.  The driver's side is still holding up though....for now.  Yeah I was up there not to long ago, I think were we went a few years ago (sand pit, little camping area by a river) was a smoother ride than the streets lol

 

On 7/7/2016 at 6:10 PM, TRUXterra said:

Was it you that got tagged by a car a few years back (I'm too lazy to search..lol)? If so & the leak is on the same side I'd be thinking the axle is tweeked. I'll find the part # for the OEM breather nipple for you in the next few days. It cost me $7 for the part & $10ish for the fuel line & zip ties! Best $20 I ever spent! The end of the hose is wrapped around the light socket of the upper most light of the tail light...if I get into water that deep, the rear diff is the least of my worries!

 

That was me yeah, they said they inspected the axle and it was fine ( not sure how they checked it though).  I suspect that my breather keeps clogging, thus blowing my seals out......or in I guess.  Yeah I'm gonna have to do that axle vent mod.

 

On 7/8/2016 at 3:09 PM, TRUXterra said:

Nissan part #38323-C601A. It's from a Titan but it will thread into your 226 perfectly.

 

Thread from Frontier forum http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f62/2nd-gen-axle-vent-mod-write-up-40925/

 

 

Ah perfect, Thanks!

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  • 5 months later...

After my battle with Olympus I decided to order some new LED headlights (obviously not from them lol) got some 10,000 Lumen AtShark ones.  The neat thing with them is that you can adjust the focal length along with rotating them 360 degrees so that you can adjust them to your housing, and they're designed to replace halogen bulbs.  The only flaw I see with them (along with every LED headlight from what I can tell) is the flickering when in DRL mode.  My DRL's work by reducing the voltage to my highbeams which is causing the flickering (plus due to the colour temperature they were not as noticeable as I would have liked), now I don't feel like purchasing an "anti flicker" module (not sure if it would fix my problem anyways, since they're designed for a Can-Bus system) so I just ran with my clearance lights on.  However since I am so use to DRL's I sometimes forgot to turn them on.

 

So today I did some investigating on my options.  I assumed that the voltage drop happens prior to hitting the headlight housing, after putting a meter on it I was wrong.  Apparently it happens at the housing, meaning the DRL circuit had a full 12V.  So I ended up cutting the wire and connecting some Amber LED's I had laying around to the vehicle side of the circuit and then grounding the headlight side of the circuit.  So now the new Amber LED's act as my DRL's and the headlights act as normal.  A lot easier than I thought it was going to be and a lot more noticeable.

 

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, Command said:

After my battle with Olympus I decided to order some new LED headlights (obviously not from them lol) got some 10,000 Lumen AtShark ones.  The neat thing with them is that you can adjust the focal length along with rotating them 360 degrees so that you can adjust them to your housing, and they're designed to replace halogen bulbs.  The only flaw I see with them (along with every LED headlight from what I can tell) is the flickering when in DRL mode.  My DRL's work by reducing the voltage to my highbeams which is causing the flickering (plus due to the colour temperature they were not as noticeable as I would have liked), now I don't feel like purchasing an "anti flicker" module (not sure if it would fix my problem anyways, since they're designed for a Can-Bus system) so I just ran with my clearance lights on.  However since I am so use to DRL's I sometimes forgot to turn them on.

 

So today I did some investigating on my options.  I assumed that the voltage drop happens prior to hitting the headlight housing, after putting a meter on it I was wrong.  Apparently it happens at the housing, meaning the DRL circuit had a full 12V.  So I ended up cutting the wire and connecting some Amber LED's I had laying around to the vehicle side of the circuit and then grounding the headlight side of the circuit.  So now the new Amber LED's act as my DRL's and the headlights act as normal.  A lot easier than I thought it was going to be and a lot more noticeable.

 

 

 

 

Your DRLs take 12 v and go series between your high beam headlamps making it 6 v. Sounds like u got it all figured out now.

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Yup got er all figured lol. Nonetheless what you said makes sense now that I think about it. From my understanding (mostly thanks to the ol' interweb) it was being reduced through the DRL module. 

 

Thanks nonetheless!

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  • 5 months later...

Well......looks like I need to update this a tad lol.  Since my last post I had a new front clip installed (due to collision), new light bar installed (also due to collision), repainted some areas and removed my roof basket (to much bouncing around), and of course I have a new "minor" issue lol.

 

So we'll start with the painting, front clip and grill are now painted (professionally) with bedliner :) I also touched up other areas with more bedliner lol.

 

Prep: THE most important part of painting.  It ain't pretty but it worked, sanded all surfaces prior to painting.

IMG_20170517_132556.jpg.1c00a987c3ec325006a8c626e0276f94.jpg

 

After all has been painted, hard to tell but just look for the none shiny areas lol.  Hood, front fenders, front grill and clip, rockers, rear fenders and rear bumper were all bedlined.

IMG_20170526_160040.jpg.024c4800032bab4766c3d97863f619a3.jpg

 

Rear bumper before painting

IMG_20170516_134812-01.jpeg.c64b535d513ea1f05ea768b51303bd90.jpeg

 

Rear bumper after painting.

IMG_20170526_160053.jpg.9946f5630bed03f0cf18dd1fa1a2d64e.jpg

 

I also decided to get rid of my roof basket and put my spare back under the bed, for now.

IMG_20170526_160106.jpg.3b158c3fad6f2c4e2665f473fb032eeb.jpg

 

So onto my current gremlin (I know I know, I should write a novel and your probably getting bored by now) for some reason truck wouldn't start after a very short period of being off. It started no problem yesterday morning and afternoon before I headed out to the dump. It's at the dump when I had the issue. I spent no more than 5 minutes unloading, when I went to drive away the truck was dead. No clicking or anything, when I turn the key just nothing (well some dash lights come on and then slowly dim) with a constant clicking noise from behind the gauge cluster (not the starter). My dash ammeter indicates the battery is within normal operating range (just above 12V, but it might have been stuck as well), all cables are tight to the terminals on the battery, and the charging system is at 14V (once I jump started it with my battery pack).

 

Today I did some trouble shooting (not much due to the rain) but here is what I have.  Before I started it the battery was at 12.0V, started no problem and jumped up to 14.8V.  While driving around it stayed between 13.4V and 14.8V and I didn't notice any change while going over bumps or rough roads.  I stopped off at Canadian Tire and once I turned the truck off the battery went to 12.8V 20mins later when I returned it read 12.3V and it started no problem.

 

Thanks to some on this board already I have it narrowed down to either the battery or starter, although I'm leaning towards the battery due to previous issues with batteries.  The truck starts instantly so I don't think it would be the starter, but I'm not sure and hence why I'm asking for professional help lol.  Thanks!

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1 hour ago, Lil'monster said:

I know you said the terminals are tight but did you take them off and check for oxidization . Ford's were bad for this on top post with this exact symptom

 

On that note (and since it stopped raining) I decided to check it out and I think you might be onto something.  There was a fair amount of oxidation along with grime build up. Unfortunately there is no way to test the fix since the issue is completely random and rare, although the voltage does appear to have stabilized (not moving up and down as much).  Hopefully that solves it lol Thanks!

 

Before

IMG_20170526_185319.jpg.1ea7087eab7b1759e73a3bf7a7596280.jpg

 

After, both positive and negative terminals looked like this.

IMG_20170526_190925.jpg.58ec6bf1281209bee0184a66db062c27.jpg

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  • 10 months later...

So uh...I feel like I should post in the intro area again it's been so long :P I got my truck back yesterday, It was being repaired due to getting rear ended at a red light and today I decided to hit up Kenny's (while waiting to head down to Bridgewater) and managed to pillage an '05 Pathfinder for a bunch of trim pieces and an airbag sensor (turns out it didn't fix my problem). Now to research some struts and shocks so I can upgrade the suspension and be a tad more stable on the 'ol rally courses lol.

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Thanks! Lol. Almost feels that way, has 185K kms on it so I can't complain. If people would stop running into me I could get some things figured. Have to address the UCA's and the rear axle seals then I should be able to go play a bit!

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  • 1 month later...
On 6/3/2018 at 12:01 AM, jay said:

New rig looks nice. I'll miss the old Fronty tho.

I will as well but I'm also excited to have a new project lol. It was a good rig, can't argue that.

6 minutes ago, TomWood said:

Great looking Titan! Needs a backcountry decal 😉 

Hmmmmmm I wonder where I can skillfully acquire one or two 🤔

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