Broken leaf springs

[Command]

I was driving around today and heard a knocking noise from the rear, so I stopped in at Canadian tire and found that my middle leaf spring was broke in half and dangling off to the side. So I guess a trip to my dealer is in order. I know parts for trucks can replace them but are there other places that can replace them (or upgrade them even) assuming they're not under warranty.

Yet another use for duct tape :) should hold till I get them replaced.

[sar4x4]

Provincial Spring just off Robie is another spot. They are an excellent shop. I suspect they are not under warranty. Any spring shop will replace the broken one and possibly match it up on the other side. Used to be around $200 for an axle. I'd be surprised if the Duct Tape holds, you might need to put a hose clamp around them.

[Command]

Provincial Spring just off Robie is another spot. They are an excellent shop. I suspect they are not under warranty. Any spring shop will replace the broken one and possibly match it up on the other side. Used to be around $200 for an axle. I'd be surprised if the Duct Tape holds, you might need to put a hose clamp around them.

I'll have to check them out, assuming they're not under warranty (I doubt they are). I know both stacks have flattened so I'd rather just get both stacks replaced (if one fails chances are the other will soon after). Yea the duct tape was a quick fix in a parking lot before work, i'll check it again when I get home and see if it'll hold up till monday (or whenever I can get to the dealer)

[TRUXterra]

Nissan leafs are notorious for flattening quickly. There solution for a softer ride was to install soft springs. Mine look the same as your, not broken, but like a 2x4, nice & flat. Let me know what you find. I'll be getting a custom set made in the next year or so. Haven't looked into quotes yet. STAY AWAY from OEM unless Nissan is replacing them under warranty for free.

[RobertMcC]

Provincial Spring just off Robie is another spot. They are an excellent shop. I suspect they are not under warranty. Any spring shop will replace the broken one and possibly match it up on the other side. Used to be around $200 for an axle. I'd be surprised if the Duct Tape holds, you might need to put a hose clamp around them.

Good shop to deal with, I used to deal with them alot when I worked on trailers.

[BLAZZING-XJ]

provincial spring knows what they are doing..had my jeep done a couple years ago their.

add a leaf and re arced . done in less then a hour . all new hardware cost around $200

https://maps.google.ca/maps?ie=UTF-8&q=Provincial+Spring&fb=1&gl=ca&hq=Provincial+Spring&hnear=0x4b5a211407dbfac1:0x666be3a6438b2ddc,Halifax,+NS&cid=0,0,8757538545322034827&ei=21zgULyuOIe2qAGXqoGYBg&ved=0CJYBEPwSMAM

[Potato Digger]

I would think about adding an extra leaf to both sides if you are going to continue off roading with it. They will just flatten out again.

[autumnwalker]

Consider Deaver if you are going outside the province.

[Command]

I would think about adding an extra leaf to both sides if you are going to continue off roading with it. They will just flatten out again.

I was considering that as well, but I figured it would be to high in the rear and/or to stiff. Would adding a leaf affect the height and ride at all?

[TRUXterra]

Yes, it will lift the rear, but over time it will settle. Now is the time to decide what you want to do with your Fronty. If you plan to lift it, a front 2" spacer will not cost you any more than $100 and you could have the leaf springs built to match. Keep in mind that springs will settle about 1" within a year and the cost to have a complete set of rear springs built is the same if you request to have them made with lift or not. Only difference is in the arch when they are constructed/built.

btw, Deaver wil cost you ~$600 for the set + S&H + duty. A guy in Ontario bought a set and the total cost was slightly more than $900 to his door!

[liltoy]

What are the dimensions of the springs? Must be something else with same size springs. Are they known to break the mains or just the other leaves.

[Command]

Yes, it will lift the rear, but over time it will settle. Now is the time to decide what you want to do with your Fronty. If you plan to lift it, a front 2" spacer will not cost you any more than $100 and you could have the leaf springs built to match. Keep in mind that springs will settle about 1" within a year and the cost to have a complete set of rear springs built is the same if you request to have them made with lift or not. Only difference is in the arch when they are constructed/built.

btw, Deaver wil cost you ~$600 for the set + S&H + duty. A guy in Ontario bought a set and the total cost was slightly more than $900 to his door!

I looked at Nissan's OEM Part site and it looks like it's gonna cost me $200 per leaf pack. So $400 to do both plus tax and labour I'm thinking its gonna be more or less $600 to get them repaired. Now assuming they're not under warranty I think I will go your route get them built to have a lift in them and get the front 2" spacer for probably around the same price.

Deaver has a good price for sure but my leaf springs are being shaken to bits (a large chunk of the midle leaf fell off today so the remaining two leafs are hitting each other and one on the other side is starting to crack) so I'd rather not wait to long. Does Provincial springs build new ones? Also ideally i'd like to get the spacer installed at the same time, anyone around HRM have them and able to put them on, like Action Trucks or parts for trucks for example?

Again this is all assuming Nissan won't repair the leafs under warranty.

[TRUXterra]

The Deaver springs are full replacements, not add a leafs. As for spacer install, it's easy as hell, DO NOT pay a shop tp do it, I'll help you for free and I'm sure someone else on the forum would too. Spacer in the front takes about an hour per side. It is really not hard. It really helps that you have the cam bolts in the LCA already to help with the alighment. If you go custom pack, get a 2.5-3" llift built into them. As stated above you'll lose an inch with a year and the OEM rake is roughly 1/2-3/4" from factory.

[Command]

Yea, I'm looking at full replacements (not add-a-leaf) if the dealer won't fix em for free. The spacer I figure can't be hard to do. I was more looking at a shop that could do it while they did the rear leafs ( get everything done at once). I'll keep ya updated, gonna be calling them tomorrow when I'm off work.

[sar4x4]

Short story: Provincial will repair your pack by putting in a leaf, and sometimes re-arch the existing springs, put in a slightly stronger spring, and

add a leaf if you want to lift it a bit. But - it will ride stiffer. But - it is $200 or so, and an hour or so.

Buying aftermarket soft-ride rides with the lift built into the design is much more expensive, it will take a while to get them here, BUT the ride will be incredibly smoother!

One way we know this is the 6`` lift we did on the `75 Power Wagon. From Provincial it was quick, and stiff and rode like a buck board. (Granted the factory leaves were rated for 1 and a 1/4 ton military!) Several years later we bought engineered Soft-Ride springs, and wow, like a Cadillac! We have 3 trucks with solid axles and leaves front and rear, and two trailers, so we do a lot of business with them. But you get what you can afford at the time! Can`t lay the truck up for a month!

[Command]

Short story: Provincial will repair your pack by putting in a leaf, and sometimes re-arch the existing springs, put in a slightly stronger spring, and

add a leaf if you want to lift it a bit. But - it will ride stiffer. But - it is $200 or so, and an hour or so.

Buying aftermarket soft-ride rides with the lift built into the design is much more expensive, it will take a while to get them here, BUT the ride will be incredibly smoother!

One way we know this is the 6`` lift we did on the `75 Power Wagon. From Provincial it was quick, and stiff and rode like a buck board. (Granted the factory leaves were rated for 1 and a 1/4 ton military!) Several years later we bought engineered Soft-Ride springs, and wow, like a Cadillac! We have 3 trucks with solid axles and leaves front and rear, and two trailers, so we do a lot of business with them. But you get what you can afford at the time! Can`t lay the truck up for a month!

Thanks, That helps a lot :) Yea if my dealer says its not under warranty i'll be paying Provincial a visit for sure. I haven't layed the truck up yet (need it for work) so i've been driving with a broken leaf now for 2 days (granted i've babied it) but that's to long for me let alone a month lol

[autumnwalker]

Sounds like this is a good opportunity to lift the truck. Get a whole new spring-pack and throw a couple inches under 'er.

[Command]

Wow this way over due but got busy with work. So I took it to dealer (they liked by "quick" fix with the duct tape) and they replaced it all under warranty. Although, when the other one breaks I think i'll be paying Provincial a visit and lift the truck a bit, sounds like my best option now.

Not to get off track or anything but I just wanted to throw this question out there. I notice that when in 4x4 the truck will bind right up while making turns at low speeds (parking lots) and will buck if I give it any gas, and will buck again while driving on the streets at normal speeds and I apply the brakes on a slippery surface (feels like its locking up the rear brakes and the rear is skipping along the pavement) I have asked those around at work who drive trucks and other 4x4's and they have never experienced this, is that normal or is something locking up that shouldn't be? To me it doesn't make sense as to why it's doing that but then again I could be missing something to. Thanks.

[Potato Digger]

My old 4-runner you could not crank it all the way over or it would slow on the turn and it would skid on the front cause one wheel is under power and sharp terning was harder on the axle joints. Ease of on the shapness of the turn was best and getting of the gas helps it not skid so much. As for the rear end it might be a weight issue, just too light for traction.

[sar4x4]

Not sure of your latest question about 4x4 in parking lots, etc. Because I may be over simplifying the answer. This is Basic 4x4 101 course. You have a Part-Time 4x4, not an AWD or Full-time 4x4. When in 4x4 your transfer case drives the front driveshaft and axle the same amount of turns as it drives the rear driveshaft and axle. And the front axle travels a further distance on the ground around curves. So something has to give! She will buck and claw until one wheel slips compared to the rest. Either that, or you break u-joints! This is why your owners manual will say to only use 4x4 in low-traction conditions, never on hard surfaces like pavement.

I hope I didn't mis-understand your question!

[Bill Smith]

good answer to the "binding question";DO NOT operate 4x4 on dry,hard surfaces.In reference to the spring/lift.Spacer ,functional and cheap.I've had good luck with good used springs just find the arch you need,cut to length;providing you have a good main leaf,not bent, broken or cracked.

[TomWood]

As an example, I have had to rebuild my front drive-shaft due to forgetting I put it in 4x4 on a hill to help hold it, then turning and hearing it, ruined the CV part. Haven't done it since though :)

[RobertMcC]

Yeah my 4runner like that in 4H, any sharp turn, she would skip, click, bang, snap. If I was on hard surfaces. I had to disconnect to turn, then re-engage. or take the turn less sharp.

[Nightpath]

Its called torque-bind. It's really noticeable in Subarus.

[Command]

My old 4-runner you could not crank it all the way over or it would slow on the turn and it would skid on the front cause one wheel is under power and sharp terning was harder on the axle joints. Ease of on the shapness of the turn was best and getting of the gas helps it not skid so much. As for the rear end it might be a weight issue, just too light for traction.

Yea thats a good point as well, the *** end is pretty light. Yea in all fairness you havent seen where i gotta park at work lol 3 feet of snow and 2 wheel drive do not like each other haha. Yea The more I think about it the more it makes sense, Thanks.

Not sure of your latest question about 4x4 in parking lots, etc. Because I may be over simplifying the answer. This is Basic 4x4 101 course. You have a Part-Time 4x4, not an AWD or Full-time 4x4. When in 4x4 your transfer case drives the front driveshaft and axle the same amount of turns as it drives the rear driveshaft and axle. And the front axle travels a further distance on the ground around curves. So something has to give! She will buck and claw until one wheel slips compared to the rest. Either that, or you break u-joints! This is why your owners manual will say to only use 4x4 in low-traction conditions, never on hard surfaces like pavement.

I hope I didn't mis-understand your question!

Nope you did not mis-understand my question at all, pretty much nailed it. I was looking at it as the front wheels are rotating with the rear and therefore should "pull" around corners without binding, the more I thought of it and researched it the more I realized I wasen't looking at it the right way. For the record though it was not on dry pavement (whats the point in that?) it was in 2 feet of snow while trying to back up into a parking spot and 2wd was not able to get through it. Thanks for the info though.

good answer to the "binding question";DO NOT operate 4x4 on dry,hard surfaces.In reference to the spring/lift.Spacer ,functional and cheap.I've had good luck with good used springs just find the arch you need,cut to length;providing you have a good main leaf,not bent, broken or cracked.

As stated above I was not on on a dry hard surface it was in 2 feet of snow while trying to back up into a parking spot and 2wd was not able to get through it.