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What did you do to your rig today?


autumnwalker

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Very happy that I found the source of a thud and a clunk; it's amazing what you hear with new tires ;)

Thud was pretty concerning, 3 of the 4 bolts that hold the bearing assembly to the spindle were loose. Tightened them up (lock-tite this time) and bye-bye thud.

Clunk was constant over small bumps; sway bar end link. NAPA lifetime warranty replacement FTW!

Both of the above were due to the worn M/T's as both were on the same front right wheel. Turns out that tire was the most scalloped in the set.

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Very happy that I found the source of a thud and a clunk; it's amazing what you hear with new tires ;)

Thud was pretty concerning, 3 of the 4 bolts that hold the bearing assembly to the spindle were loose. Tightened them up (lock-tite this time) and bye-bye thud.

Clunk was constant over small bumps; sway bar end link. NAPA lifetime warranty replacement FTW!

Both of the above were due to the worn M/T's as both were on the same front right wheel. Turns out that tire was the most scalloped in the set.

No, the bad scalloping on the tire was caused by the loose bolts and bad sway bar bushing. It is amazing what you can hear and feel when your tires are smooth and quiet though. Make sure you do regular rotations to keep the new ones wearing evenly.

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Maybe, but the tires were scalloped since I bought them and are better today compared to then. The truck has vibrated at speeds less than 40k/hr until the beads start to balance. The bolts in the hub were no loose enough to have feathered the tires; they were just starting to back out.

Regardless of the cause, just glad to have these noises solved...now onto the several squeaks & rattles ;)

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So far, I believe my cousin is taking them, though I have to confirm. The deal is he has to use them and not sell them (or else he gives them back). Not sure if he can run them on his XJ with only a 4" lift (plus, he'll need 17" rims). I'll let you know ;)

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Ive got four 265/75r16 yoko m/t's that i wont be mounting back up in the new year rob if you are interested, theyre probably 50% with one having a very small cut about 1/8" deep in a sidewall. Cheap cheap cheap.

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What would really set it off is the aftermarket "RAM" logo in red. I saw a post somewhere that replace the stock RAM logo with a red back lite logo that was wired through the parking lights. I believe it was a $20 offering...purely cosmetic though.

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Well, it wasn't as good as I wanted, but,

The Scout is in a garage for the winter! As I planned. But it wouldn't start for the third time that I tried to start it in two weeks, so, we used the gf's CAA to push it via tilt deck uphill

and into her garage. It is a garage in a townhouse so I won't be able to do as much as if it was in my bro's rugged garage but it is better than having the soft top outside. And I'll be able to get some work done to it before spring. And at some time if it still doesn't start we'll trailer it over the the big garage and straighten it out. (I won't try to turn it over much in this garage.)

It likely needs the starter relay upgrade (I bought all the parts today), and I'll upgrade the coil/distributer to a DUI style, clean up the wiring, check the vacuum ports and hoses, etc etc.

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Uh oh better flush it out quick!

Hoping that's just low/old oil

I've been reading up on it, and it looks like it could either be a $60 sensor, or it's something internal that failed.

The fluid was good, and the level was dead on last week when I checked it. It's darker now, and smells burnt, so I'll need to change that and the filters too.

It's downhill on the hwy on the way home, so I'm going to take it easy and try and make it home. It started acting up going up the hill to the airport this morning. I had to pull over and let it cool down for 15 min before it would move. I made it to the airport exit, and stopped for a few more mins. After that, it seemed to be engaging properly, and I made it the short distance to work with no more slipping.

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Coast Tire in Bedford to flush and/or change the filter. Talk to Dave.

I had the "Transmission Temperature" light come on in the Grand when we went down to the valley on Boxing Day. I had the cruise control on on the highway, and it was shifting all over the place on some of the hills. Had it flushed and no problems since. And I haven't used the cruise since either, our hills aren't good for it...

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I pulled the sensor that's linked to the code I got, and it had moisture on it, so chances are that could be what caused it.

I also sucked out as much trans fluid as I could, and it was brown and smelt HORRIBLE! I hope the clutches aren't fried.

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Hopefully you caught it in time! Electronics on modern vehicles are a blessing and a curse. Not sure about Heeps, but for my X there is a "How To" to complete what is called a "poor mans" flush.

Basically, it involves 2 people; one to pour in new trans fluid while the other watches the output from the hose that goes to the cooler until it runs clean.

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How would you get all the old fluid out of the many oil galleries in the valve body by a basic flush? I would say its safe to assume there would easily be a liter or more trapped in there.

As an example for mine for instance they use a odb tool to electronically open all the valves in the valve body and then a low pressure fluid exchanger is used, apparently its supposed to be less hard on the trans by not pushing deposits deeper into sensitive places.

Unfortunately no toyota dealer in the HRM has this tool. Just saying this because it might be best just to take it to the dealership if you continue to have problems.

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How would you get all the old fluid out of the many oil galleries in the valve body by a basic flush? I would say its safe to assume there would easily be a liter or more trapped in there.

As an example for mine for instance they use a odb tool to electronically open all the valves in the valve body and then a low pressure fluid exchanger is used, apparently its supposed to be less hard on the trans by not pushing deposits deeper into sensitive places.

Unfortunately no toyota dealer in the HRM has this tool. Just saying this because it might be best just to take it to the dealership if you continue to have problems.

You let the pump that moves the fluid through the transmission do the work. It is easy, provided you have the right fittings, hoses, and enough fluid to do it. Same goes for a coolant flush as well.

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