My04T4R Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Bluepitbearings.com - Install front wheel bearing…: http://youtu.be/BVuM8iVO6u8l Thats the video of the install it seems really easy, i dont have a chisel or brass bar, also need a 17mm socket or combo wrench, seems it would be hard to find something so thin to torque the four bolts on the bearing race since the hub is right there. Like a croswfoot or something. Axle nut is 36mm other than that i dont know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLAZZING-XJ Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 No video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Well, can't see the video but: "seems it would be hard to find something so thin to torque the four bolts on the bearing race since the hub is right there" On the Rogue you have to unseat the bearing splines from the axleshaft, using a large block of wood and a heavy hammer (yes, that is what the Factory Service Manual says) and slide the axleshaft a couple inches back into the transmission, so you can get a wrench/socket on the bolts on the back of the bearing/hub. Like I said, it took me a couple of different tries before I understood what the FSM meant and I got it all figured out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 It's a pretty easy job, except for the rusty bolts, those can be a PITA. I've helped a friend replace one on his Tacoma. We used a crowfoot socket to torque the 4 bolts, but I would use a wrench and tighten by feel if you don't have either. Forget the chisel, a BFH wailing away on the hub was the only way to break his free. This set-up is very similar to replacing the hub on my X, which I have done a few too many times. There's been issues posting/embedding vids, so I'll try it below http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVuM8iVO6u8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomWood Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 No video. Videos need to be allowed in your browser settings. This is due to the advanced security to keep attacks on the site down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My04T4R Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Bluepitbearings.com - Install front wheel bearing: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My04T4R Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Seems to work on browser just fine just not on chrome, so when he goes to torque it he just uses a deep socket with extension to clear it, i would rather use a combo wrench and then a crowsfoot socket on my torque wrench, also not sure if my torque wrench is strong enough to torque the 36mm axle nut. Other than that I understand I have to beat the old part off the knuckle and cv shaft but buddy in the video makes it look easy, ill hit it with brake clean and some sort of penetrating lube today and tomorrow. One more thing the part diagram that I have shows one o ring but andy shipped me two, they are already slid onto the bearing race, should I go with two? Seems there wouldnt be room for that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My04T4R Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 image hosting without registration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Seems to work on browser just fine just not on chrome, so when he goes to torque it he just uses a deep socket with extension to clear it, i would rather use a combo wrench and then a crowsfoot socket on my torque wrench, also not sure if my torque wrench is strong enough to torque the 36mm axle nut. Other than that I understand I have to beat the old part off the knuckle and cv shaft but buddy in the video makes it look easy, ill hit it with brake clean and some sort of penetrating lube today and tomorrow. One more thing the part diagram that I have shows one o ring but andy shipped me two, they are already slid onto the bearing race, should I go with two? Seems there wouldnt be room for that... He uses a crowfoot w/extension in the video. Trust me, there is no way to get a socket & extension in there directly, it's well buried behind the stub (with the studs). You can't get a u-joint extension in there either; we tried. Try it on your work bench at home and you'll see why. Use only 1 O-ring as there is only enough room to properly seat it in the housing. 2 would be asking for problems (very likely). If you don't have an impact gun (air or electric) and you're doing this solo, here's a tip I'll pass along to make the removal of the axle nut easier; use a 2x4 or short length of wood to hold the brake pedal to the floor (pull the brake light fuse as well, ask me how I found that one out :P ). With the truck running, wedge the wood between the brake pedal and the lower part of the driver's seat. The brakes will hold the axle/hub from spinning. Much easier than jack up, remove the wheel, remove the centre cap, re-mount the wheel, lower the truck, loosen the nut, jack it back up.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Added an L shaped temporary bracket out of an old license plate to mount the winch control box. Now she's all wired up and ready for action :) Does anyone have a license plate sized piece of steel they could sell to me.. hmmmm an old metal box might work? Also, the rope eye has been crushed so I can't get a shackle through it. Is there any way to re-round it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My04T4R Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 How bads the eye crushed? If badly i would suggest cutting it back and getting a new thimble and some crosby clips, you could at that point put a hook in or use a shackle. Back to the wheel bearing thing, i dont have the tools and on my drive home today I noticed it sounded like the brake dust shield was making a racket but then it started getting worse and i felt a lot of vibration, im guessing its wheel bearing related? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Added an L shaped temporary bracket out of an old license plate to mount the winch control box. Now she's all wired up and ready for action :) Does anyone have a license plate sized piece of steel they could sell to me.. hmmmm an old metal box might work? Also, the rope eye has been crushed so I can't get a shackle through it. Is there any way to re-round it ? Move that control box before you hit the trail! If you were thinking of mounting it there permanently :twak: Go to a car audio shop and get measured lengths of 4-8 gauge (depending on existing wiring gauge) and extend the lines to mount that box under the hood. If you leave it where it is, you'll be pooched in a 2' water hole. It is far better to stand on a tire and plug in the controls rather than taking a dunk while laying on the hood! If that box is underwater (at any time, when needed or not)...kiss your ability to use it good-bye!ETA: is the : TWAK : emoticon working for everyone when viewed? Using Chrome & IE 11 and it's pooched Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Jay, if you need some 4 gauge wire, I think I have some that you can have. I should also have 8 gauge, so up to you which you'd prefer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Jay, I just remembered that I have a control box mounting bracket from my SW bumper that I'm not using. If you want it, it's yours; powder coated black and made from 3/8", it is designed to bolt a Warn control box onto. Yours for a coffee. Couple pics: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 thanks....you know, in all my excitement, I didn't even think of submerging it in water! Yes I'll relocate it now :) Derek..yes please :) the wires with it have #2 on them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Jay, I just remembered that I have a control box mounting bracket from my SW bumper that I'm not using. If you want it, it's yours; powder coated black and made from 3/8", it is designed to bolt a Warn control box onto. Yours for a coffee. Couple pics: IMG_1904.JPG IMG_1905.JPG Thanks for the kind offer, I'll take it if I don't figure out something else in the meantime :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomWood Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 :twak: is working for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 :twak: is working for me! works for me too (to post), but visually, the stick doesn't move on the left body...just a fubar expression on the right body.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 He uses a crowfoot w/extension in the video. Trust me, there is no way to get a socket & extension in there directly, it's well buried behind the stub (with the studs). You can't get a u-joint extension in there either; we tried. Try it on your work bench at home and you'll see why. Use only 1 O-ring as there is only enough room to properly seat it in the housing. 2 would be asking for problems (very likely). If you don't have an impact gun (air or electric) and you're doing this solo, here's a tip I'll pass along to make the removal of the axle nut easier; use a 2x4 or short length of wood to hold the brake pedal to the floor (pull the brake light fuse as well, ask me how I found that one out :P ). With the truck running, wedge the wood between the brake pedal and the lower part of the driver's seat. The brakes will hold the axle/hub from spinning. Much easier than jack up, remove the wheel, remove the centre cap, re-mount the wheel, lower the truck, loosen the nut, jack it back up.... You need an open socket. Looks like a wrench, but instead of the long "handle" it has a square for the ratchet or torque wrench, if you want to torque it to spec (I am guessing that's what you mean by crowsfoot?) ... Unless it comes apart... OR just use a wrench and tighten by feel, like Devin said. I am off, we could try it here if you want Sam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 I have an electric and air impacts, 36mm socket, wrenches, etc, but check the size needed, just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My04T4R Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 You need an open socket. Looks like a wrench, but instead of the long "handle" it has a square for the ratchet or torque wrench, if you want to torque it to spec (I am guessing that's what you mean by crowsfoot?) ... Unless it comes apart... OR just use a wrench and tighten by feel, like Devin said. I am off, we could try it here if you want Sam. Yeah, when are you willing to help me attempt this? Also do you have those tools or should I go buy them? And as i said earlier it sounds like its seizing completely I dont know if I should even drive it anywhere, i was thinking of trying to see if double z had a short notice opening tomorrow as they are really close. What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 Great looking work Jay. This inspires me to pickup a new winch and do this project on the H2 - it's literally made to have a winch mounted in the frame rails up front. Scott, did you look carefully at Jay's winch? It may just be YOUR old one... :P !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My04T4R Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 Yeah, when are you willing to help me attempt this? Also do you have those tools or should I go buy them? And as i said earlier it sounds like its seizing completely I dont know if I should even drive it anywhere, i was thinking of trying to see if double z had a short notice opening tomorrow as they are really close. What do you think? I would rather tackle this job with you so I can learn. 36mm for axle nut, and 17mm for brake calipers and bearing race bolts. Ill totally risk driving it to beaverbank, ill just take it easy driving there. Tomorrow morning ill start hitting it with brake clean and rags and also some penetrating oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 I have the wrenches an axle nut socket. Check with Bill at Double Z, they are close to home for you. If they can't get you in, give me a shout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.