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What did you do to your rig today?


autumnwalker

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19 minutes ago, sar4x4 said:

 

 

But, what is this clean shop floor, square tube hanging around the shop, clean welds, and a big press?  I've never seen such a shop except in 'picture books'!  lol

Quite the adapter you head to fab for the press!

Paul has a real nice setup there, and he made that press himself...it's already had Suzuki parts through it LOL ! :)

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My Scout has an intermittent left rear Stop / Turn signal.  When used individually each one works.  When used together, which is almost always when turning left, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.  But the dash says it's flashing.

Ground wire is good and light sockets are good (new).

(I like vehicles with separate rear turn lights!)

Scouts didn't have the very best electrical design.  And not the very best build and component quality either.

And a lack of ease of servicing: the wires aren't colour coded.  They are mostly all black.  And if you're lucky they have the circuit number printed on them every few feet.

Yeah sure. Covered by looming, hidden behind bulkheads, covered in dirt and rust proofing 'grease'.  Good luck finding a circuit number stamp!

 

And then add in ~40 years of dirt and corrosion getting into terminal contacts.

 

(My Suburban is the same era, but the electrical system is night and day compared to the Scout!  The Scout even has an ammeter, with all of it's long-term safety issues, a ballast resistor, with all of it's nuances, no starter relay, etc but it does have  a GM 10SI or whatever the good alternator is called!)

 

And I have a service Manual.  As good as the factory ones weren't.......

 

So I started searching Mr. G......

 

One of the common causes of this failure, and usually the LH side, not the RH side, is the turn signal switch!  (The brake lights and turn signals get combined downstream in the wiring.)  Dirty contacts.  And the connector at the bottom of the steering column.

I checked the connector last night, it's clean, but I didn't have my steering wheel puller to check the tss. But it is actually relatively easy to get at.

 

Driving to work today I has no signal lights or hazards whatsoever.  Seems I didn't quite get that connector reseated.........

 

It took me almost a year to solve the ignition problems.  Done two years ago!  A previous owner had wired the ballast resistor into the back up lights..........  blowing the electronic ignition module over time.  And I had to install a starter relay. She started when she felt like it.  It had like 9 volts at the starter on a good day.  And cleaned every terminal in the firewall connector. And installed new larger starter and battery negative cables.  The starter cable was 4 gauge for 8 '....  Battery on the opposite side of the engine compartment.  It's now 0 gauge.

 

But I wouldn't trade it for anything!

 

Now I'm working on this!

 

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Good to get 'er home!

 

IF  I really got po'd at the wiring on either of my vehicles, or something even older or messed up, I would CONSIDER a new Painless or other brand harness.

 

Especially if I was adding lights, EFI, proper radio, electric lockers, etc etc.  They add as many extra circuits as you want in a new one.


A pain to feed them through everywhere but so good to work with!

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Not a trail rig but maybe a tow rig. The roof vent was shot in the van so i tore it all apart , found some rot. Cut and welded new material in  and installed new vent. Fixed headliner inside around the vent too. Also painted the hidious wheels. I dont like the black wheel look but it is better than what was there before. Id like to get some chrome cragars or other old school looking  chrome wgeels for it 

 Also installed brand new bow tie in grille and licence plate , chain frame and lexan cover for plate.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Jay , the rotor is from a full kit I bought years ago from Spidertrax  , they no longer make it . I bought a new caliper from Princess Auto as it was the same as the one in the kit . everything else is custom . 

 

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/suzuki-off-road-parts/samurai/brakes/suzuki-samurai-transfer-case-mounted-e-brake-kit-sb-ebk-lr.html    

 

 this is the only one I found , the same as the one I bought except the rotor is different but its almost 3 times what I paid about 7 years ago 

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Still, I think that price is in-line with other industry parts.  And cheap if it keeps your vehicle from rolling into someone!

With my GM I'm lucky, you can get calipers with the e-brake built in. (I have a set sitting on a shelf..........)

Because the obvious problem with the TC mounted park/e brake is that it requires an intact front or rear driveshaft.  However, usually at least one is intact!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Part for Scout from RockAuto.  ACDELCO and GM part numbers are identical on the package, and the IH part number for the turn signal switch is the same.  And the steering column looks like a GM.  RockAuto doesn't list a tss for the Scout but I ordered it by part number. 1/3 the price of buying it through a Scout website.

Hete's hoping its the right one AND it fixes my problem!  

IH built the body and motor, but all other parts are industry sourced.  Dana axles and Tcase, Dodge auto transmission, Saginaw steering, ACDELCO and FOMOCO engine and ignition, you get the picture!  Makes it easy to get starters, alternators, light sockets, and the parts I met ones above.

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Fixed a bit of an exhaust "leak" last night. My hedman header had decided to split apart and after cutting the collector off I found out the root cause was likely from poor workmanship when built. All four pipes had blown out in the middle of the collector. The pipes were very distorted when built and flow was likely never smooth. My fix should buy me some time before I need a full replacement as the nearest was over 3 weeks away!IMG_6597.thumb.JPG.77382c327ee2e94bca03259558cd1c02.JPGIMG_6598.thumb.JPG.0899fd029cae49327b85b0384844fcc2.JPGIMG_6599.thumb.JPG.ad552b0fbdda0fb582fc6190889e9f4a.JPGIMG_6600.thumb.JPG.bae5681a18dcb0142dc91987b5dd070e.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, ronin said:

fixed up the front bumper on the Sammy . I didn't like the "Stubby" look and it didn't offer any protection to the lower front . Before and after pics 

 

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I do like the look of the wings, and yes they give better protection to the body corners!


And, I'm a big fan of the old-school 'component' headlights.  Halogen bulbs and a proper lens, as compared to the traditional sealed beams.  Now the trend is LED, but if you have the old ones, I prefer to keep them!

 

On my Burb I also put relays on the Halogen headlights, to keep the power from flowing through the in-cab switch, and to increase voltage at the bulb.  I believe that many Japanese rigs may have relays from factory though.

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10 hours ago, sar4x4 said:

I do like the look of the wings, and yes they give better protection to the body corners!


And, I'm a big fan of the old-school 'component' headlights.  Halogen bulbs and a proper lens, as compared to the traditional sealed beams.  Now the trend is LED, but if you have the old ones, I prefer to keep them!

 

On my Burb I also put relays on the Halogen headlights, to keep the power from flowing through the in-cab switch, and to increase voltage at the bulb.  I believe that many Japanese rigs may have relays from factory though.

no relays on Samurais but on the list 

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11 hours ago, jay said:

looks much cleaner now :)

I like the way your winch is tucked in behind the bumper too....and that SJ bolt on grill you have is awesome! (I want one LOL)

winch plate is on the bottom of the frame , tucking it in nicely . as for the grill , it's aluminum flashing left over from a job and I cut it out . If you look close you can see where I widened the ends out for the Samurai front marker/turn signal lights . 

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