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What did you do to your rig today?


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Well my ujoints arrived, but dummy me didn't pay attention when ordering them, and I got the wrong ones. I bought the ones for where the shaft goes into the t-case (1330), not the rear end (1310). Doh!! They are bigger joints, so won't fit.

Now, being pissed off, I checked the joint on the shaft off of the parts Jeep, and it looked damn near new, and had no play at all. So, I took it out of that shaft, and in to mine it went. :D

Also, the crap ujoint I pulled no longer had any needle bearings in it. It did have dust in it though, lots of dust. Lol.

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The Cookie Monster is now sitting 4" higher :-)

I finished the bod work on the car! Just super impressed with how it turned out and I wanted to share :)   What I started with: 20150820_151132 by Mitch Parsons, on Flickr 20150823_114502 by Mitch

Cleans up pretty good

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There's been a few occations where I've carried a gas can strapped to the roof of the Xterra. 
 
But whilst on the summer event, I had a full can of gas on the roof. At some point the can got hit by a branch, which ripped off the expansion cap and toppled the can over. 
 
Eventually I could smell gas, and after a good 30 minutes of wondering what it was and looking under the X for gas line leaks, I remembered the gas can on the roof!
 
The entire roof was covered in gas! Luckily it didn't ignite LOL
 
So, 6 or more months ago I bought a gas can carrier on sale, but just didn't find time to install it. Now was that time!!
 
I've drilled through the hatch, and installed some home made doubled-up giant washers to help with the door skin.
 
I'll probably not fill that 20 liter can as it'll put a strain on the door.
 
IMG_20150825_192745.jpg
 
IMG_20150825_193838.jpg
 
IMG_20150825_193816.jpg
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My carrier is small, from PA, for an ATV!  But it is for emergencies and not for overlanding.  Like yours Jay, I put a large single plate on the inside of the door skin. That's quite a story about the roof!  Roof carriers are great in open terrain conditions, but can be troublesome around here!

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Looks good. Nice junction box cover / washers :) shouldn't put too much strain on the hatch of if its on the hinges' side. That's like my spare tire, you can tell it puts strain on it

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Installed the Krawlers on the front.  And the fender flares, which had not been on since the new fenders a  year ago, or more!  It took some time to trim the fenders first.

 

Now that the truck is back together maybe I'll do some of the monthly rides! :-)

 

And now that the basic colour change is complete, maybe I can get some mechanical upgrades done again!

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Removed some random parts for the heck of it.....

 
When we did the Hilden tour in 2014, I had a brief problem with my battery light flickering. The problem went away as soon as it appeared. But I noticed on the MUD Run the problem came back. 
 
The alternator is also making a really bad bearing sound, so it's time to replace it. 
 
For it's replacement I'm not going to just swap it out into it's original location, because the alternator is way low down at the lowest part of the engine bay.....why?
 
So I'm going to remove the AC compressor - which has never worked, and relocate the alternator in it's place, nice and high to keep it out of the crap!
 
Just need to source an AC Compressor shaped Alternator ;)
 
Stage 1 - remove the AC idler pulley and frame
 
IMG_20150902_194638.jpg
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I finished the bod work on the car! Just super impressed with how it turned out and I wanted to share :)
 

What I started with:
21105774131_514625460c_z.jpg20150820_151132 by Mitch Parsons, on Flickr
21098064835_2ce15197e8_z.jpg20150823_114502 by Mitch Parsons, on Flickr

Cut out the soft stuff
21071872756_4e9450945d_z.jpg20150823_131533 by Mitch Parsons, on Flickr

400 tri[s to the vice and we have a patch plate!
20910144398_559a422f21_z.jpg20150823_143613 by Mitch Parsons, on Flickr


 Patch welded in! I also welded the back wheel well portion, but I don't have any real pictures of that.
20911208249_fcd39693b1_z.jpg20150823_170416 by Mitch Parsons, on Flickr


Yes, this took many many layers of bondo and metric **** loads of sanding to get even close to okay!
20911194849_ae93b7f7c2_z.jpg20150826_210808 by Mitch Parsons, on Flickr

 Primed:
 20476896253_d065d6974c_z.jpg20150829_162641 by Mitch Parsons, on Flickr
 
Final product:
20909879500_bfbd1bbb48_z.jpg20150831_163613 by Mitch Parsons, on Flickr

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During the summer it will be! Kind of. I don't plan on driving it during the winter, it's RWD and has more power than my truck.. I can only see myself getting stuck everywhere!

I just have two projects on the go now.. soon the truck will be under the knife, I need two front wheel bearings (since apparently they're a wearable item now) a ball joint and a pulley bearing. Thankfully having two cars saves on parts though! I'll be able to take the tentioner off and get the bearing from a bearing place rather than have to buy a whole tentioner!

I'm collecting parts to swap the IS300 to manual, too so the truck will see lots of road use then!

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This is for Dave .....I removed 1 (yes one!) bolt from the D44 - that's progress LOL - I've got no sockets big enough, so I used a bit of propane and a big-*** adjustable to get the upper ball joint nut off. Tried the lower ball joint, but it wasn't budging.

I'm gonna have to get some big-boy sockets for this axle!!

Anyone know what size sockets I'll need - the nuts measured weird like 28.8mm and 27.something mm - I'm guessing they'll be imperial ?

 

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I took my truck to the garage yesterday to get it safetied. Great news... Both uniball joints ( machined ball joints ) in my upper control arms are loose. Supposedly indestructible, wellwell they were on my truck for a year and my truck was parked for at least 4 months in total. So for the yota guys with lift kits, say **** all pro offroad and get the total chaos UCAs with regular ball joints.

 

Also have to get a new steering intermediate steering shaft as the u-joint is destroyed. Supposed to be a sealed unit with no lubrication points. Well Toyota engineers are mongoloids apparently cause it was so rusted that it's the reason why I felt like I had no power steering...

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Both uniball joints ( machined ball joints ) in my upper control arms are loose. Supposedly indestructible, wellwell they were on my truck for a year and my truck was parked for at least 4 months in total. So for the yota guys with lift kits, say **** all pro offroad and get the total chaos UCAs with regular ball joints.

Did you contact the company? Perhaps they will remedy? Production flaw, etc.

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Yes. I sent them an email. I am not too impressed. You pay almost 1000$ for control arms including shipping and all, it sucks to have to remove them, press the ball joints out and press new ones in and reinstall. Especially when new ones cost 200$ and I used them about 8 months...

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Ouch.  Ouch.  The last Toy I owned I loved but it was an '83 with a SFA.  No problems like that.

Driving by the Toy dealer the other day on the cross street behind Kempt Road you can see a PILE of frames............. warranty I'm to understand!

I've seen steering joints seize up and I sprayed the heck out of them.  Loosened them up, maybe too much!

 

Anyway, both my old school Sub and Scout I put Borgeson steering joints in and I love them.  My old U-joints and rag joints were VERY sloppy.  Now it feels like rack and pinion steering in comparison!  I literally ripped the Scout rag joint apart with my bare hands..........

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The steering intermediate shaft is common between makes. I have changed hundreds in gm cars/trucks and SUVs. But it is also common on suburu,  Toyota, and several others. They develop these vehicles with permanately lubed components in dry climates and they work and last well there. Not developed in areas with high humidity, they only protect against splash up and not condensation penatration. You arnt alone with your steering shaft issue. 

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Deb was working so I didn't go to the picnic on Saturday.  She would have felt left out if I went without her!  Worked on the Scout a bit.  Some odds and ends and then

 

today ordered a water pump from Rock Auto.  It was not only leaking, but you can move it around the bearings are so shot!

I'm a RA virgin so we'll see!  They list over half dozen pumps,,,,,,,,  that gives me anxiety.  Not available locally at all.  I could have paid much higher from a Scout specialty store.  We'll see...........

 

And while I was writing this I got a call from Nissan that was working on the Rogue.  And it needs some parts I might have ordered from RA.

 

Hand in hands.  Face plant.

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Full flush of my diff fluids today. Tomorrow I will be bed lining the inner fenders, rotating the tires and other regular maintenance stuff. 

First time sealing diff covers and made a fatal mistake. I don't think I let the seal cure enough before adding gear oil as both are now slowly leaking. i used "the right stuff" just didn't apply properly I guess. 

Bought a 5 gallon bucket of gear oil for cheap so I got lots to spare for a re-do. Just a waste of time! :very_frustrated:

:haha:

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First time sealing diff covers and made a fatal mistake. I don't think I let the seal cure enough before adding gear oil as both are now slowly leaking. i used "the right stuff" just didn't apply properly I guess. 

Bought a 5 gallon bucket of gear oil for cheap so I got lots to spare for a re-do. Just a waste of time! :very_frustrated:

:haha:

I believe the vast majority of home and professional mechanics will say to use liquid gasket like you did, but I prefer a cork/paper gasket especially on vertical surfaces.

And with 6 4x4 vehicles hanging around the garage, we buy diff fluid and ATF by the 5 gallon bucket sas well!

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