Lil'monster Posted July 19, 2015 Report Share Posted July 19, 2015 I would use a cold chisel in the gap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lil'monster Posted July 19, 2015 Report Share Posted July 19, 2015 ☺ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 19, 2015 Report Share Posted July 19, 2015 Yeah, that's the route I took to get that tiny gap...guess I need to keep hitting it :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 19, 2015 Report Share Posted July 19, 2015 Anyone with a Dana or GM Corporate front axle have been there before! Yup, BFH, chisel, round and round, lots of penetrating oil, a beer, soaked overnight, a few cuss words. The usual working with old iron! That's often called the spindle, BTW. Don't pound on the bearing surface or the bearing lock nut threads! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 19, 2015 Report Share Posted July 19, 2015 IIRC, there is a small flange around the centre, much like a hub centric wheel rim, and that is where the friction holding it on is. Not the bolt shanks. LOTS and LOTS of anti-seize on that flange when you put it back together. AFTER you sand it almost shiny to get the rust off and smooth the surface! You da man, Jay! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 19, 2015 Report Share Posted July 19, 2015 Thanks for the tips :) ...the BFH is staying well away from the spindle and threads. Next problem will be splitting the hub from the rotor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Same thing, I think. Don't bother trying to save the studs. (They aren't expensive but I bet you didn't budget for them!) Set the rotor on something really hard, a concrete floor if you aren't scared of scratching the floor. Not a wooden bench, you don't want any 'give'. And BFH the studs out. Then chisel round-and-round, and penetrating oil! And many big smacks on the face of the hub between the studs. Nice and flat with a Ball Peen hammer of course, your BFH is not a carpenter's hammer! Nice and flat so you don't scar the face, because that shows you had to beat on it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 I'm tempted to do away with the hub for 6 bolt chev if that would work, so I can re-use my wheels to save some $ ...my tires are 16 inch, and I've been looking, and correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think the bronco/f150 came with 16's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 If the studs start to mushroom, just cut them off with a grinder and then use a center punch. Again, on a hard surface, not a flimsy bench! And Clarence or any guys that are better at this, just chime in as well! On stuff that is really rusted on tight, my bro and I have had to carefully cut into such things as the rotor. Even cut off a bearing race off a spindle one time. With a small die grinder and very very careful not to nick the spindle! And then emery cloth to smooth the spindle because you can't help but nick it slightly. The bearing surface on the spindle is for the bearing race, and therefore it can handle a small dimple in it. This is not Formula 1 racing. Conceivably you could cut the rotor in half, careful not to nick the hub. Then you could beat freely on the inside of the rotor edge to leverage it free from the hub. And often once you cut something like that it takes away the stress of a press fit and things separate much easier. In other words, no magic procedure, you're doing great, play a bit, then walk away for a few hours and come back again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 I usually beat the spindle with a block of wood and a bfh. Just went through this about 3 weeks ago when I installed my rcv shafts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Wheel size is for brake caliper clearance. The Bronco would have been 15", so 16" will work just fine. And Chev 6 bolt hubs should work just fine I think. If I'm right there are just two common differences in hubs and spindles that you can run into. Some older gear than yours (Ford and Jeep maybe) may have had 'small spindles', and some spindles/knuckles have a different number of bolts and/or bolt patterns bolting the spindle to the knuckle. And I had to buy a new hub for the old axle in the Burb. After I drove WAY TOO LONG with a bad wheel bearing and chewed the hub up so bad the bearing race would spin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Cool, sounds like a 16 is available, so I'll go with that to keep things simple :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Let me know if you need any hub parts/spindle parts outter stubs or any of that stuff. I have lots of spares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 I run an aftermarket 16 rim on my ford Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 What do you know....Liquid Wrench + wood + time + BFH = spindles off! Great advise guys, thanks :) U-joint on the short shaft is frozen solid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 I was expecting a seal on the last photo ^ what stops the diff oil from coming out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 The seal on mrjoecanadian's truck (previous post many months back) and my Dana 60 is not at the outer end of the axle tube, the way JK? owners talk. It is at the inner end of the axle tubes next to the centre section. And it has a special lip to guide the axleshafts up and through. And on the Burb the spindle separated from the caliper mounting bracket, not sure if your setup is the same.... And I'm not sure you need to separate them at this point. I'd have to check my book which is at home! Or a bit of Interweb research. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orourked Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Not today, but Saturday. Lowered my tires a bit. Front before-after/Back before-after Before in garage After in the woods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Looks like 1 in the front and 2 in the back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 is that the reverse of 2 in the pink and 1 in the stink? ROFL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 2 inch kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orourked Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 It is definitely 2" front and back. I didn't get the same angle when taking the pics for the measurements. I installed a 2" Prothane budge boost http://www.amazon.ca/Prothane-1-1708-Spring-Isolator-Extended/dp/B003AVLGN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437409246&sr=8-1&keywords=jk+lift Just over $200 after tax and shipping. I am happy with the results for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Sounds good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 I recently received some Amazon vouchers, which I always like to get because there's so much 'off-road-crack' to buy on there. This time I decided on a wireless winch controller for my Warn M8000 winch. It's something I've wanted for a while because I find digging out the big-*** long winch controller can be a PITA. I could never justify the cost of the wireless controller, but It was on sale :) 'With easy plug-and-play installation, the Warn wireless winch remote can control your winch from anywhere within a 50-Feet range of your vehicle without the need for hard-wiring or splicing. The truck version fits all Warn truck and SUV self-recovery winches with a 5-wire control pack. Equipped with a shock-resistant transmitter, durable key fob for convenient storage, and is sealed for protection against the elements.' Looking forward to recovering some of you lot with it :ninja: :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 Nice kit! My old trusty Warns have been severely tampered with at the connectors, I'd have to buy new connectors as well if I were to do that. I guess I just need s winch b&&&& instead! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.