SQRLPWR Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 Yeah throw them in the X if you have them. You going to coffee tomorrow? I think so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 Had the windshield replaced. I can't begin to explain how much of a difference it made, the old one was certainly well etched from 10 years of salt, sand & other crap. The X also has it's 10th B-day coming up next week. It was initially sold on July 3rd, 2005 (I bought it on April 4, 2009) and I have a special purchase in mind next week as a present ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 I would love a new windshield for mine, it's really pitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 I would love a new windshield for mine, it's really pitted. I had been thinking the same for the past 2 years or so. It wasn't until it cracked last month that I was forced to do it. Hind sight what it is, and knowing what I "see" now, I should have done it 2 years ago...lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted June 26, 2015 Report Share Posted June 26, 2015 Front sway bar gone. Certainly feel a lot more body roll but there are no more clunks & creaking ;) I was going through end links like candy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oniondip Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Well.. I decided to claim today as a maintenance day. I leave for Ontario next week and knew I had a few parts needed replaced. Oil change was first.. Which went terrible biggest mess I've ever made while doing an oil change. Then I went to do my front pads&rotors.. Found a hidden gem which out a stop to the job. Looks like I'm going to get to do a caliper now too :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Finally fixed my belt squeal; I've been chasing that b!t<h for months! Turns out that I got some "liquid love" (Liquid Wrench) over-spray on the fan pulley. It's driven from the back side of the belt so it would squeal on start-up and when the fan was engaged (engine above 2k rpms). Used a drill with a hole saw assembly (with a couple large washers) and some emery cloth to re-finish the surface ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 So I had some time to do some TLC to the Scout this weekend. Basically the first item on the list was check the transmission fluid. Warm, idling in neutral. And she just died while idling! Lots of fuel in carb. Starting checking the ignition circuit. (Had re-built the starting circuit last winter and it works flawlessly now.) No power to the ballast resistor. Started troubleshooting the circuit from the ignition key onwards. WTF, WTF. Ripped the wire out of the loom heading back to the key from the resistor. It heads down to the transmission. WTF Ripped the wire out of the loom heading towards the coil. Well, should have headed towards the coil! It heads back towards the taillights........... WTF The wire from the transmission to the back-up lights had the ballast resistor miss-placed into it! Ah, the wonders of a PO. (Previous Owner!) And without the ballast resistor the electronics in the distributor fried..... During all of this troubleshooting I took out the AC controls from under the dash for ease of access, and then the AM mono-aural radio to check the hole size, then the 36yr old speaker, and the dash pad that needs repair, and the unused anymore electronic choke pull off, and and and. And will replace the wire looming which was faded to white and crumbling everywhere I touched it. And lots of oil on a 36 yr old engine. Now to order in a new electronics module - Mallory Part # 605............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 I bet your back up lights will be much brighter now haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted June 29, 2015 Report Share Posted June 29, 2015 Well.. I decided to claim today as a maintenance day. I leave for Ontario next week and knew I had a few parts needed replaced. Oil change was first.. Which went terrible biggest mess I've ever made while doing an oil change. Then I went to do my front pads&rotors.. Found a hidden gem which out a stop to the job. Looks like I'm going to get to do a caliper now too :/ I've completed a lot of brake jobs in my 40 years and I have never seen a brake caliper piston that had cracked before! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oniondip Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 I've completed a lot of brake jobs in my 40 years and I have never seen a brake caliper piston that had cracked before! Ford switched to Pheonalic/plastic pistons a few years back. Cracked pistons seem to be fairly common since haha. Alwell it was quick and painless to change. Took me little under 3 hours from tools in box to tools in box for one caliper, and then both pads and rotors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Ford switched to Pheonalic/plastic pistons a few years back. Cracked pistons seem to be fairly common since haha. Alwell it was quick and painless to change. Took me little under 3 hours from tools in box to tools in box for one caliper, and then both pads and rotors. Ok that makes more sense now. I've seen that the plastic pistons are become more and more available on aftermarket re-manned calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 I found some time to start tearing down my '79 D44 Bronco axle I bought a couple of weeks ago. The axle was cheap, but it's in rough shape. So a quick wash to take off the layers and years of mud and crap, and I cut off the broken parts and started to drain the oil. The tag tells the story.... 3.50 D9TA UC 610088-7 LS Ford ID: D9TA-3002-UC (Dana # 610088-7) 3.50-1 / LIMITED SLIP (From 11/1/78 to 4/2/79) Dana 44 HP WMS 66" BOM 610088-7 3.50 gear ratio flat top knuckles From a 79 FS Bronco So, question ... ? I believe these to have the oval cast radius arm mounts which are less desirable. Also the previous owner cut off the radius arms and unsuccessfully tried to burn off the rest of the spring mount - should I just grind them off? Am I going to be able to weld on them ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 What type of susp are you putting in front. Leafs or building a 3 link. If it were mine, I'd take everything off so you are starting with clean tubes. Then build to suit. Me personally for simplistic reasons I'd build a leaf set up. Now before you hang me for saying that, iv built some pretty flexy custom leaf set ups with off the shelf parts that are cheap and easy to get. Jeep YJ springs are awesome, super flexy and easy to get. So great ride plus good off road manners. Sure its not as cool as buddies custom rock crawler but leafs perform well when they are carefully selected and are simple to build so down time will be minimal while building. If you are doing a 3 link setup, I'd still clean everything off the tubes so it will be fresh start. 3 link is pretty simplistic to build too, but a little more care would have to be taken to make sure the suspension won't fight against itself. The angle of the rear facing radius arms is important, how you set up the bushings and the angles of those, and your trackbar to steering arm should be as close to paraell as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eastcoastcam Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Nothing wrong or shameful in leaf springs. Clarence's XL7 flexed awesome on leafs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 I noticed that my rear diff cover was bent out at the bottom a tad, and was also leaking. I don't have any gasket maker left, so I just beat it back with a hammer, pumped the old fluid out, and put new stuff in. I've gotta pull the covers off the front and rear, and do a proper change, but this will get me by until later in the month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 I don't care about cool - I just need something that'll flex, work and be trouble free :) If I'm honest, right now I don't know, but I'm open to advice and suggestions from folks who've done this before :) My plan is to strip the axle down and clean it up, see what I have, then get it functional. I originally started thinking leafs for simplicity. Then I was talking to someone who's got experience, who put me off leafs because of lack of flex - and I really don't want to have to tear down leafs to go with coils once it's built. I DO like the idea of cheap and off the shelf parts tho!! But I was also thinking of maybe getting new Bronco radius arms and brackets if they're available at a reasonable cost - that way it's pretty much bolt on for the arms. One thing I noticed is the X frame width is ~41 inches center to center, and the axle radius arm mounts are ~44 inches center to center. IDK if that's going to be a problem if I go with the radius arms - leafs I guess not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Leafs can be super flexy, easy and almost maintaince free Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 Jay: 1) How much flex do you really need? 2) Why would you want to do it right the first time? The rest of us haven't! 3) That axle doesn't look the same as the one in the first picture did IIRC. It was a leaf spring set-up. All: Okay, what did I do today? Ordered my ignition part for my Scout from Summit Racing. Never bought anything from them before! And a 2nd part as backup. And a 'power filter' that goes in-line to the distributor to clean up any dirty power. All Mallory/MSD parts. # s 605, 6100M and 29351 Sometime I will post a pic of my second order of Scout TLC parts that came in last week. Luv retail therapy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 LOL.... 1.much...IDK 2.I'm not expecting to nail it 1st time, but it would be nice to get it close ;) 3.you've got a good eye....it's not the same as the picture, but I forgot to call the seller out on it. It is the same as described tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sar4x4 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 Still a good score on the axle. HP44, limited slip, and esp the flat top knuckles. For adapting steering components. Ya always gotta buy new rotors and calipers in our climate, not like SoCal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 I must admit I was a little overwhelmed with the condition LOL Underneath all the crust seem to be solid. Most of the fasteners need to be cut off tho! Right now choosing the economy options from Rockauto, I'm looking at; Brake lines U Joints - DANA HOLDING CORP Part # 513301X Spicer Premium Greasable Universal Joint CAD$32.46 CAD$0.00 CAD$64.92 Rotors - PRONTO Part # BR5446 {#60441} CAD$24.88 CAD$0.00 CAD$49.76 Remove Part Brake pads - BENDIX Part # MRD50 Riveted Bendix Global (semi-metallic) CAD$14.11 CAD$0.00 CAD$14.11Caliper - A-1 CARDONE Part # 184034 {#D3TZ2B121A, E2TZ2B121A} Reman. Friction Choice Caliper w/Installation Hardware CAD$21.12 CAD$6.29 CAD$27.41Caliper - A-1 CARDONE Part # 184033 {#D3TZ2B120A, E0TZ2B120E, E2TZ2B120A} Reman. Friction Choice Caliper w/Installation Hardware CAD$21.12 CAD$6.29 CAD$27.41Upper ball joints - ULTRA-POWER Part # K8195T CAD$6.49 CAD$0.00 CAD$12.98Lower ball joins - ULTRA-POWER Part # K8194T CAD$7.19 CAD$0.00 CAD$14.38 Sub total CAD$210.97 Total CAD$402.15 Shipping is killing this order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomWood Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 When your picking parts Jay, pick the parts that have a UPS truck beside them. This will then have parts ship from the same warehouse and reduce the cost drastically. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 I didn't know that...thanks :) let me retry.... ;) The only thing I'm not being cheap with is the u-joints ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomWood Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 Go for it, sometimes it might be a bit more expensive part, but shipping drops by more than the part increases lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.