Jump to content
  • Welcome, Guest!

    Welcome to Backcountry 4x4's online community! Consider creating a free account to take part in our discussions, share photos / videos, and start "web wheeling" with us!

What did you do to your rig today?


autumnwalker

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 4.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

plywood/boards under your jack, jack handle facing straight towards tow hitch. this prob your best way to support/move trans. release bolts, wiggle back just far enough to get converter lined up, reinstall. may not work for you, but prob worth a try. reminds me of a locked up engine removal when we couldnt turn the converter to release the bolts. had to remove trans first leaving the converter bolted to engine just to get the engine out  it was tight having to move trans back far enough to clear befor lowering. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the above everyone.  I don't claim to be a mechanic by any means and am still learning as I go.  Turns out I didn't seat the torque converter properly in the bellhousing before attempting to install the trans.  

 

So after fixing that issue ( and checking that I didn't damage the pump) we installed the trans and it all but fell into place :)   

 

I have learned a fair bit from this ordeal and can guarantee I won't have these issues again lol.  

 

Still a bit to put back together before I can drive it again but I feel confident that it's all going to come together now. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

huge relief I'm sure!! glad ur making good progress!

 

as a coincidence, it turns out after running my X for the 1st time in weeks, the rear main seal is leaking. I've read it's a total PITA to do, because of having to remove the diff and trans...but I'm half way there and will just need to pull the trans - and that's a job I've never tackled before.

 

pathy pic as reference and not mine

 

DSCN3953.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, jay said:

huge relief I'm sure!! glad ur making good progress!

 

as a coincidence, it turns out after running my X for the 1st time in weeks, the rear main seal is leaking. I've read it's a total PITA to do, because of having to remove the diff and trans...but I'm half way there and will just need to pull the trans - and that's a job I've never tackled before.

 

pathy pic as reference and not mine

 

 

 

 

Never done one on a X before but it shouldnt be much worse than any other trans. Just get a buddy and a bunch of extension for your ratchet and a wobble joint. Do the transmission input shaft seal while you're in that deep and maybe give everything a good clean. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the advise :)

I was thinking about this some more, and there are 3 common places these motors leak; the RMS, the oil pan & the valve covers.

when I had the motor running, I had a reverse rake going on, so I'm not wondering if it's just a valve cover leak.....I need to trace it properly, but since it's just a small drip, investigation can wait :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll be changing my radio gear around once I'm mobile again :)

 

Previous setup was CB & Wilson 500 mag mount on the roof, and a Baofeng UV-5R dual band HF & a Nagoya mag mount on the roof.

 

Then I went to fiberglass antenna on the bumper because I was tired of the Wilson whip hitting every branch. But the CB reception with the fiberglass antenna was nowhere near as good as the Wilson. So I'll be re-connecting the Wilson, which luckily I only unplugged as it's threaded though a hole in the roof.

 

For the HF radio, my little Baofeng 4Watt output didn't have the power I would have liked for longer distance comms in the woods.

So, in Jan I ordered a faulty QYT KT-8900R 25W tri-band HF radio from Amazon, and dealt with a big returns hassle. The return for that was messed up. The sale wasn't from Amazon, but it was covered by Amazon's policies. As such, the seller has to cover returns postage if it's not send back to Amazon. The Seller wanted it returned back directly to them - the radio cost $109, the returns cost including insurance to Hong Kong was $79! Which they paid after some additional weirdness with Amazon's refund system which only allows for $10 postage returns.....oh my LOL

 

Needless to say, after all that, I was a bit wary of re-ordering from Amazon again. Having some past success with Aliexpress, I re-ordered the same radio with a Diamond SG-M507 dual band PL-259 antenna and 'CB' stud to SO-259 convertor from Aliexpress. ('express' is irony BTW)

 

The antenna and convertor arrived after 6 or 8 weeks! ...but no radio yet.

 

And why 2 antennas in the photo? I honestly don't know how the Nagoya NL-R2 in the orange packet got here, because I don't recall ordering it, not do I have a paper trail. I'm hoping they've not messed up and sent me the antenna instead of the radio....we'll see.

 

.....but I'll give it a try all the same :)

 

IMG_20160406_092047.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK so Thursday I finished putting everything together.  But........ the test drive didn't go so well.  

 

My cooler line let go and spewed transmission fluid all over the highway. Got it towed back to Tom'so (thanks Julie for the CAA) 

 

Turns out the clamp on the hose had stripped.  So today I replaced the clamp, filled it back up with ATF and.......drum roll...........SHE LIVES!!!!

 

I have my truck back :) let's go wheelin'

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Long story short:

Over the last two days:

New drag link (2 ends and sleeve), new LF Tie Rod end, oil and filter change (last changed Winter 2013), transmission fluid and filter change (no flush)(last changed Fall 2007), park brake cable hooked back up, AT tires rebalanced, toe-in set, and steering wheel centred.

 

Over last 3+ months:

New RF wheel bearings, serviced both locking hubs, new extended Bilstein front shocks, RF tie rod end, alternator and power steering belts, adjusted 'new' transmission linkage so the indicator matches the gears.

 

Next up, heater core!  Passenger floor all wet.  (No carpet to worry about.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Within the last couple years I also replaced my worn steering column / rag joint.  That was awesome!  If you can, get the vibration/noise dampener joint. I didn't for the Burban but I did for the Scout and I can hear the ps pump in the Burban.  Not very noticeable though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My steering components are now wonderfully tight when steering.  Having said that, I noticed the bearing at the lower end of the steering column is bad. The shaft wobbles a bit there.   Anyone know what the effect is and how to change it?  Do I really have to rebuild it or swap in a new column?  I hope I can just swap the bearing in while in place.

 

I do have a tilt column available, but no key, I'd have to swap the key cylinder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I finally got my truck in the garage this morning and managed to split my thumb open and break it in under an hour. Got to spend 2.5 hours sitting in the hospital for x-rays. Lucked out and got it glued back together instead of stitches. Guess the truck is gonna wait till tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^ Ouch!!  Hope it heals up quick!

 

My passenger side axel u-joint has been making noise, and had a bit of play in it, so I took it apart after the run today.  Most of the needle bearings in two of the caps were broke into tiny little pieces!  I have a new Spicer on order for it, and one for the drivers side too.  The drivers side feels tight, but might as well have one here for when I need it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I pulled the heater core out for rebuilding, been leaking for several years off and on and getting worse.  I believe with the factory-looking seam sealer/grouting on the heater box the core is original!  As is the blower fan!  And actually there wasn't too much leaf and debris build up in the box/ducting.

My records show the lower rad hose being changed in 2008.  And the coolant in 2011.  No records means I changed them when I built the truck 1998-2002.  So I'm going to change the upper hose and the two different sized heater hoses and clamps.  And the 'lifetime' coolant is now 5 years old...............

Then the only other degradable parts to replace is some rubber fuel line, so I don't have another leak like at Hour 0 of M.U.D. 2015!

 

Maintenance, maintenance!

 

Looking out my window here at the MacDonald bridge there has been a gap in it all day, and all night so far!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Tires, tires & more tires!!

Having a manual tire changer really saves $$'s, but it ******** sucks to use! ...and I busted up my hand and a pallet in the process LOL.

 

So......

I've put Tracey's all seasons on, with beads.

Removed my 3 almost junk 31" Goodyear Territory's, and 1 Goodyear Wrangler SR-A A/T. The A/T was supposed to be a temporary fix from 2 years ago, but ended up being used, a lot.

Removed 4 rotted out M+S tires from the Ford rims

Bought 2 really really nice Kelly Safari TSR 31's from Jake, in order to make 1 good 5 piece 'street/dirt' set of 31's. The Kelly's are a similar tread pattern to the Territory's.

The current 33's will be trail use only :)

I just need 2 more Ford rims to make a good 31" set ;)

All of that work sucked!! LOL

 

 

IMG_20160427_093625.jpg

IMG_20160427_093643.jpg

IMG_20160427_093654.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PartSource called yesterday to say my 'Burb upper rad hose is in.  Umm, that is all that has happened re my vehicles in over a week!  Oh, wait, except for spending more $ on brakes on the @#$%^&*+ Nissan Rogue.  It sits near salt water and does not get driven every day and the rotors pit quickly.  2 years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...