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What did you do to your rig today?


autumnwalker

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5 hours ago, sar4x4 said:

 

The Scout linkage shifts into Park but the pawl or whatever it is isn't holding, I carry chocks around with me now.  I'm hoping a simple fluid change helps.  May have to do a flush, I wouldn't know how.  Fluid probably hadn't been changed in 10-20 years.  Previous owner, of 20 years, says he never changed the diff fluids!

Id recomebd to not flush or change the fluid in your scout or you will be most likely rebuilding the transmission. The strong detergents in new fluid will clean the transmission and also the clutch packs, so well that the clutch packs will dencintragate shortly after. On old transmission the dirt or tarnish embeded in the clutches will be rrmoved and that is what is holding the material together. After the 3rd time of doing maintence (fluid change) on a working transmission and a couple of months later it is slipping and won't move , IV learned don't touch em if it has been forever since it was ever done. It's probably just a shifter adjustment needed for the park pin not going all the way in. Could always set the park brake as long as it is in proper adjustment. I never park anything without using my park brake wether it is standard or auto. I couldn't even tell you it park would hold my autos still.  Using the park brake also prevents the cables from seizing from not being used

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Today I got the TRE on, and re-installed the front two tow rings that I had started to take off to paint back in January. (Didn't get them painted, but I'd rather have the truck functional, may do one at a time.)  I'd hate to be stuck and have two front tow points with only two bolts each!

 

Now I just have to put the RF wheel on, and I am mobile in 2WD, and add the locking hubs and I'll have 4WD.

I'll be mobile for 'emergencies' until I do the LF wheel bearing.

 

I plan to wheel on Saturday, but in 'E2C' land, doing some field checks for our May 7/8 24hr Orienteering event.  That's my main focus for the next two months!

 

http://ecoendurancechallenge.ca/about/

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This is one of the reasons for my 'watered-down' wheel bearings!  Wheel bearings under water, locking the hub!

Then drive less than 100 km over three days and put them away wet!

 

M.U.D. 2015 - First day.  I might have some more pics of this incident if anyone is interested!

 

IMG_1594.thumb.JPG.960e9c4568c8a8e0143dd

 

 

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23 minutes ago, sar4x4 said:

This might be the reason for 'watered-down' wheel bearings!  Wheel bearings under water, locking the hub!

 

M.U.D. 2015 - First day.  I have some more pics of this incident if anyone is interested!

 

IMG_1594.thumb.JPG.960e9c4568c8a8e0143dd

 

 

Locking or unlocking under water shouldn't have any effect on it as the action on the outside of the hub is only rotation, no other action there, would be the same as not turning it while under water. 90% of the time the water creeps in along the axle shaft  through the spindle on the back of the knuckle delivering the water to the outside bearing and pooling at the hub

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Got the flex line for the clutch reshaped and installed ,welded up the clutch rod and put a shaft on the clutch peddle ,  topped up all of the fluids in the trans , T case and both diffs .

 

IMG_3187.JPG

IMG_3185.JPG

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2 hours ago, Powerram said:

Locking or unlocking under water shouldn't have any effect on it as the action on the outside of the hub is only rotation, no other action there, would be the same as not turning it while under water. 90% of the time the water creeps in along the axle shaft  through the spindle on the back of the knuckle delivering the water to the outside bearing and pooling at the hub

 

Acknowledged and understood.  If the seals, the Warn O-ring and the spindle-to-axle shaft seals and the large wheel hub-to-spindle seal are all up to par.........

 

I just thought it is a fun picture!

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And the locking hub knob seal.......

 

If I remember correctly, all maintenance manuals used to say to service grease nipples and wheel bearings 'frequently' when used in wet/submerged conditions!  And I didn't!

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Ordered a new fan bracket today (bolts to the block and the clutch fan attaches to it). Got really, really lucky when the bearing let go on Saturday. I'll post pics later, but the clutch fan, fan & pulley dropped to the bottom of the engine bay after the bearing literally separated. No advanced warning, no squeal, nothing. Rad is good, plastic fan blade is good & the belt is good.

 

It came apart in the Sobeys parking lot so I had to call a friend to get tools to remove the fallen fan assembly before I could drive it home on the battery alone. I got really lucky! Total cost of $65 for the new plate vs. hundreds if anything else was taken out if the engine was at higher RPMs when it let go!

 

For reference, its #3 in the pic.

BC.jpg

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Starter was bad on the Suburban this morning.  Tonight:  Suburban starts just fine!  All I had to do was tighten the finger-loose mounting bolts, then took the reman starter back.  Just getting home now though, had to pick Deb up at work.

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1 hour ago, jay said:

Mounts must acting as a ground then :)

 

Oh no, there was no lack of power. With loose bolts the starter would 'cock' to one side and the starter gear won't engage the flex plate/fly wheel ring gear....

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Maintenance, maintenance...

Suburban

Thursday:  Tightened the starter mounting bolts.  Starter had been giving me trouble all winter (like all 3-4 times I started it, but was good last weekend) and gave up Thursday morning.   Works perfect again now!

Thursday:  Since fixing the starter was so quick, I also tightened the power steering belt.  She was squealing bad and the steering wheel was bucking!  I had put new belts on a couple months ago.  She steered perfect today!

Friday (today): Maintenance-Free battery battery maintenance! When working on the wheel bearings I noticed a bolt missing on the auxiliary battery tray.  So today I pulled the battery to replace the bolt.  And then pulled the main battery to switch them out.  Hadn't done that in a couple of years.  Trying to 'exercise' both of them evenly.  It's a manual dual battery setup, you use the main battery one or both, you can't use just the auxiliary alone.

Friday: Several years ago I replaced the worn, sloppy transmission linkage with a universal, swivel end style.  But I hadn't got it adjusted quite right.  All gear positions were moved too close to Park.  Took me 15 minutes or less today to adjust the linkage correctly this time, (tired it once before and did it backwards and made it worse) and now all gear indicators are lined up!

 

So truck feels much better, but I definitely need to set toe-in and center the steering wheel. I hate off-center driving!

 

Rogue:

Replaced the radiator today.  Took less than two hours.  And because I Krown the Rogue and Krown doesn't dry on plastics, the engine compartment is BLACK.  I had to toss my old jacket when I was finished!  Took just under 2 hours.  Tight fit.

 

And when I switched the Suburban batteries, I cleaned them, that isn't water on the dirty one, that is liquid Krown!

Dirty battery on left.  Krown and mud and spruce needles.  Both batteries Canadian Tire AGMS, same part number, different labelling!

 

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I like to park downhill.  If I park up hill my transfer case tail shaft housing leaks.  On the to-do list.

And if I park on side hills the front axle tube seals leak.  On the to-do list.

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