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What did you do to your rig today?


autumnwalker

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Stainless?  The stainless that I know has no real strength.  A 1/2" or 5/8" Grade 5 bolt will last much much much longer before it rusts solid than a small one, and with 'Never Seize' you'll be fine.  IMHO  And I've never used anything on my shock bolts anyway.  The Sub does not see much salt.  But I suggest you do!

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1 hour ago, 82Yota said:

You can buy grade 8 stainless hardware...

 

Kewl!  Did a little research on Mr. G. (Google).  I am now more informed!  Thanks for the heads up.

Yup, strong stainless bolts seem to exist.  They may be very pricey and may be brittle at cold temperatures (but don't always believe what you read in a forum)!

Rumour has it ARP sells them.

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For the most part we are over analyzing it.  Galling, mallability (sp), corrosion, anodes, etc are all really important in aircraft, submarines, spacecraft, and yes automotive applications with aluminum Land Rovers and steel hinges and frames, and many engines these days with dissimilar metals and also differing thermal expansion and contraction rates in particular. And torque-to-yield bolts type of stuff.

 

For my old Sub, especially the shock bolts, none of this matters, except for not re-using leaf spring-to-axle U-bolts.

 

I like these forums, we learn lots!

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The U-bolts are designed to yield in some way, thread deformation or something or other, and I've seen stated many times should not be re-used.

For the highway anyway.  For an unlicensed truck used on a farm, likely not so critical!

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49 minutes ago, 82Yota said:

I personally never re-use ubolts because theyre always such a **** to get them off so now i dont even bother trying and use mr makita and a hammer.

 

 

 

Sooooooooooo true.  I use the 4" or 5" grinder (w/cutting wheel) and pop goes the weasel!  The fun part is when it cuts through and the tension releases, the axle needs to be supported or stand clear!

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1 hour ago, sar4x4 said:

The nuts on a U-bolt are tall (double   normal height) with fine thread, allowing lots of engagement with the bolt, and when rusted, a real PITA to take off manually.

 

Just cut them!

Agreed. 

 

I think the only real problem that ive ever had was on the toyora cone washers. They are bastards kg if youve never done them. 

 

I have it down to a science now haha

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34 minutes ago, 82Yota said:

 

 

I think the only real problem that ive ever had was on the toyora cone washers. They are bastards kg if youve never done them. 

 

 

 

The GM 10-Bolt front axle (similar to a Dana 44) also had cone washers.  One of the biggest PITA I've ever come across. As you indicate, once you have the knack to get them out, good, but if you don't...............   I don't remember off-hand if my Dana 60 has them.

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I take that statement in the tone it was meant and laughed heartily.  Please everyone, don't think I'd kick an animal! (Except a cow when they are stepping on your foot........ And I couldn't kick it hard enough to hurt it!)

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4 hours ago, sar4x4 said:

The U-bolts are designed to yield in some way, thread deformation or something or other, and I've seen stated many times should not be re-used.

For the highway anyway.  For an unlicensed truck used on a farm, likely not so critical!

 

^^ Agreed. I treat a U-bolt like a "torque to yield" bolt. I'd never rebuild an engine with old bolts and see U-bolts as being the same. They undergo extreme stress especially off road when you drag them over obstacles. Well, that & the fact that they always seem to sheer at the nut when trying to remove them :P 

 

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32 minutes ago, derekmac said:

Just ordered a new drivers side hub/wheel bearing for the Jeep.  I had to replace the passenger side for safety in October, so not really surprised this one is gone now.  $56 all in with lifetime warranty from http://www.primechoiceautoparts.ca/

 

 

How in the holy hell do you give a lifetime warranty on a bearing anyways? Ive always wondered that

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