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What did you do to your rig today?


autumnwalker

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Access to the alternator in the Xterra is T I G H T ! but once I had the alternator removed I found it is not a Nissan unit and the winding's are significantly smaller gauge than the Nissan alternator I replaced it with.
The good news is the old alternator bearing was definitely dry.

I believe the dashboard flickering was due to the output bolt being loose.
 
Also, an added bonus - a long time ago I sheared off one of the alternator adjuster bolts in the alternator body, so I was no longer able to clamp the alternator body to the adjusting plate. With the new alternator, I was able to bolt it to the adjusting plate :)
 
Now I have an alternator that is quiet, no longer flickering on my dash and adjustable :)
 
I still plan to move it up in place of the AC compressor - just didn't have time. 
Access with the SAS would have made this a 20 minute job, not 2 hours!
 
IMG_20150913_174116%2B-%2BCopy.jpg
 
IMG_20150913_174136%2B-%2BCopy.jpg
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My new water pump from Rock Auto for Scout arrived early.  It was scheduled for Thursday, the 18th.  It's a Gates brand (yea, built in China these days) and the price was certainly right shipped to my mail box.  It is a screw on pulley style though, and my service manual says it should be a press on and I went with a listing that said fan clutch, which I have.  I'll have to try it out tomorrow night or it'll have to go back,,,,,,

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I see part of your problem.  That's a carpenter's hammer!  A BFH is at least a Ball Peen hammer, and get a weight heavier than a carpenter's framing hammer!

Not quite a small sledge hammer but heavier and sturdier than that claw hammer!

 

This will then work better!:banhammer:

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^^  What Clarence said!  Those yoke/ears are likely well compromised from looking at that picture!  It would take major surgery to get the U-joint out, and then the yoke/ears are probably weakened with rust erosion.

Sometimes I'm crazy and take stuff like that apart just to see if I can, the best way for that axle joint would likely be to cut the U-joint cross out, then torch a hole through the cap to weaken it.  Then pop it out.  Without spreading or closing the ears together.....


Then it all goes in the scrap steel pile!

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As Calvin says, shouldn't need receipt as long as it says Mastercraft on it!  Sometimes they take your phone number and look up your receipt, but that

only works at the store you bought it I think, but you can take stuff back to any Crappy Tire.  It says so right on the front of the Customer Service counter! I read it yesterday!

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So, I've got the ujoints out now, and it's bad news - there's not much material left on the ears for the long axles, and the shorts are not much better.

So I'm now looking for some axles if anyone know of any ?

BOM tag information;
3.50 D9TA UC
610088-7 LS
Ford ID: D9TA-3002-UC (Dana # 610088-7) 3.50-1 / LIMITED SLIP (From 11/1/78 to 4/2/79)
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As Clarence said, check Parts For Trucks.  They work on snow plow trucks, and he thought they may have something in stock.  And if so, it is old stock and it may be a good price. I got a part for my Warn winch there years ago at half price because they were giving up / lost the local Warn distributor ship.

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Got a lead on some axle shafts from Ken @ RadCo in Westville. He's found 3 of the 4 shafts in Edmonton, and I'm waiting on a call back from him for the 4th......fingers crossed :)

 

Washed, scraped & wire-brushed the housing of rust and oil, and gave it a coat of rust paint.

Need to do the same to the steering knuckles next ;)
 

IMG_20150918_171526.jpg
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