TRUXterra Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Came home today and the sliders were on my front deck! They look great. Picked up some POR-15 to use as a base coat and some bedliner for the top coat. No hardware was included (expected) but I have a set of mounts that have all the bolts/washers and other stuff so I don't really care. Only sad note is that there is a 1" seam weld that was missed on the driver's side where the rub rail meets the main slider/rock rail. Now have to find someone to complete that section before I can start painting; the prep is commencing in my basement in a few minutes ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 They are gonna be sweet when they're finished!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autumnwalker Posted August 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 those look great Devin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Progress being made, and some issue to deal with early in the week. 2 coats of POR-15 done and drying. Bedliner tomorrow ;) I did find an issue with the side frame mounting locations. The bolts I'll be using are 1/2" grade 8, but the mounting locations are more than suspect (IMO) without some engineering. You can see in the front pics the circle is the mount location for my sliders, and the arrow shows the usual mounting location from other companies. The solution; a slug. I'm going to have 2 made on Monday and run the bolt straight through. The rear is similar however there is only 1 location to mount to the frame side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derekmac Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Replaced the valve stem I bent on the run yesterday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Somehow I lost a Warn hub on the last adventure as all 6 grade 12.9 bolts somehow sheared off! The bolts snapped off about half an inch into the hole. I called around all the local auto salvage yards in the hope they may have a hub...but no. After attacking one of them with the drill, and failed, I've given them some heat, and they're soaking in penetrating oil. If I had a drill press things may be easier!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomWood Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Hope you can get them out Jay! Want to see you out at Ledwidge :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autumnwalker Posted August 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 What are you running for a front axle? I have a set of Toyota Warn front locking hubs... no idea if they would fit, but I have them here on a shelf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Thanks - I'm still on my Xterra running gear - IDK if they will, what year/model Yota are they for ? For now I'll be throwing my Nissan auto hubs back on - it's the internal part of the hub assembly (pictured) that I need, as the bolts are sheered off in the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autumnwalker Posted August 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 I have no idea - they were on the spare axles that I got with the Moose. Want to try them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brunet-Hemi Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 I have a drill press if you need to use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 What are you running for a front axle? I have a set of Toyota Warn front locking hubs... no idea if they would fit, but I have them here on a shelf. They won't work. Warn 29091 are the only reliable hubs that will fit a Nissan (90-04 Pathfinder & Hardbody/Frontier & 00-04 Xterra). Jay, when you get the new hub, just install the drive flanges I gave you and be done with it. You don't drive the X enough to be concerned about MPG ;). A replacement CV axle is less than the cost of the situation that you find yourself in now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessy Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Yea... This happened. NO, I don't need anyone else telling me to take it easy. It was the serpentine belt :( **** happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Looks like academy towing came and got ya. Was that a CAA call or is that just who u called? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 ∆ clearly Jeep don't like to be polished ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Jay, when you get the new hub, just install the drive flanges I gave you and be done with it. You don't drive the X enough to be concerned about MPG ;). A replacement CV axle is less than the cost of the situation that you find yourself in now. I might just give that a try. My only concern with that is wear and tear on the lokka Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 You are probably going to find a bad bearing or stuck pulley for why the belt came off or broke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Jay, with one hub in unlock and the t- case in 2wd, the lokka will most likely stay locked and keep everything turning with the wheel but everything else will only have the resistance of the oil. No load changes or anything. No wear on the lokka. I'd do it. The lokka is pretty tough. I don't think it will bother it any Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Yeah. I think Devin meant install both flanges...both axles would be turning in 2wd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Ah, then looks would be ratcheting on every turn, which is what its designed to do. But would want to know its working perfectly so by chance it wouldn't become locked and change how you are making a turn , midturn unexpectedly. If it were me, flange on one side, warn on the other so no steering compromise while in traffic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Nice idea! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessy Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Looks like academy towing came and got ya. Was that a CAA call or is that just who u called? Roadside :( Thankfully it was covered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRUXterra Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 I might just give that a try. My only concern with that is wear and tear on the lokka The locker only engages with torque from the drive shaft; the wheels don't have any impact at all. Recall that I have a send Gen X with a full time front end and there are a lot of installs. Here is one of the first reviews from 2013 http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64014&highlight=lokka I've also learned that there is a GB on Club Frontier for $259US...Darn CDN $ will still have that higher than your GB price of $299 with the exchange rate today lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQRLPWR Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 The locker only engages with torque from the drive shaft.... Yup, with hubs locked and in 4WD, you can really feel the steering binding up with high traction even when only slightly on the gas - the fix is to let off the gas, and it sorts itself out. If it's bad, or I'm on a dry road, I'll pop it into 2WD...problem gone. BTW - TNT sent me the import invoice for the Lokka last week - C$55 - IDK why it took them so long to post it....but even with that it was still a bargain if you ask me! And FUN to extract and learn about my diff :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerram Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 The lokka has enough spring load in it that if one hub is locked, the other is not, and t-case is in 2wd, the hub that is locked will turn everything together up to the driveshaft to the transfercase. Now if both hubs are locked and and t-case is in 2wd lokka will ratchet under perfect conditions. I wouldn't want to risk it not ratcheting on my steering while in traffic, My front lokka seems pretty predictable, but i still dont trust it in traffic to function properly. but the rear seems unpridictable. Once it locks in the rear it stays locked,even with the clutch depressed till both wheels match up out of a turn. Yes my install clearances were correct, I had to make my shims for the rear. I'm not sold on the lunch box lockers, I should have not spent the money on the rear and just welded the side gears to the case, then it would be predictable in traffic. The front I'm happy with for wheeling but still don't trust it for the road. Pavement =front hubs unlocked with lokka to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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