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What did you do to your rig today?


autumnwalker

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Started on replacing my faulty auto-locking hubs with manual Warn hubs.
The kit comes with the hub and new studs that replace the existing longer Allen bolts. Installation should have been easy enough; remove the old hub, c-clip and locking mechanism, install new studs and slide on the hub. However people online have been complaining about the supplied Warn studs failing....with this in mind I carefully torqued up the first stud and promptly sheared it off.
The stud had 10mm exposed but also had thread lock on it. So after trying unsuccessfully to get it out with vise-grips, I tried to put some heat on it and still no joy. To get it out I had to weld a nut on the end on the broken stud. Thankfully the stud backed out and I was able to reinstall the old hubs.
Now the hunt for stronger studs starts!! ...they're metric 50mm..not sure of pitch,but likely 1.25 for a 13mm nut.
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Worked on the Scout! Well, first wanted to remove the 3 inches of ice in the driveway. And had to purchase and replace a flapper on a toilet.

Then some preliminary, little stuff.

Jacked up one wheel and moved the floor mat out from underneath.

Removed the front tow hooks. They need to be sanded and painted. And attached with two bolts each, not one! Although I likely won't ever use them,

I want them functional, not a safety hazard!

Removed the headlight bezels, to re-paint the black surrounds. In the pic one is still on, the other off.

Rolled the truck ahead touching the garage doors, to give good walk-around space behind it. This is easier said than done, I was alone,

and the garage floor slopes down just before the door. And I didn't want to lose it through the door or down the driveway!

Removed the trailer ball and mount. To give better space walking around at the rear, and not smashing your shins!

Unhooked the battery. I don't think there is anything running to drain it, but just in case. The only drain would be the clock. But it doesn't seem to work. But there is another one in the spare parts that I will check out!

Put the fuse puller in the 'cab'. The fuse puller that I've had for decades. For glass style fuses! Now that I've fixed the dead short I hope I won't need it too often. You know, vehicles had little glass fuses decades ago!

Took a look at the front axle. With the 3.54 tag on it. That matches the VIN.

Took a look at the rear axle, no tag.

Took a look at the transfer case. Typed the numbers in Google and popped up as Dana 20. Which was expected.

Found the one 'soft' spot that the PO had told me about. A body mount. I will fix that!

Misc pics to follow!

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Started on replacing my faulty auto-locking hubs with manual Warn hubs.
The kit comes with the hub and new studs that replace the existing longer Allen bolts. Installation should have been easy enough; remove the old hub, c-clip and locking mechanism, install new studs and slide on the hub. However people online have been complaining about the supplied Warn studs failing....with this in mind I carefully torqued up the first stud and promptly sheared it off.
The stud had 10mm exposed but also had thread lock on it. So after trying unsuccessfully to get it out with vise-grips, I tried to put some heat on it and still no joy. To get it out I had to weld a nut on the end on the broken stud. Thankfully the stud backed out and I was able to reinstall the old hubs.
Now the hunt for stronger studs starts!! ...they're metric 50mm..not sure of pitch,but likely 1.25 for a 13mm nut.

I went with allen head bolts for this reason. I still have the Warn studs from mine if you want to try again :p

I'll search my old forum to find the size for you.

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NP I'll just take the stud to the fastener place.

IDK why Warn went for studs instead of Allen bolts cuz there's plenty of clearance for them with the cap off.

I also noticed the new hubs stick out past the wheel rim a little. Not sure if that will be a problem, but Id hate to catch them on a rock. It might give me an excuse to put the offset Eagle rims back on

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Went to drive to Crappy Tire to pick up my warranty replaced tire and as I get half way to the end of my road, the Grand starts making a horrible power steering whine :( ... turn around and back home to the garage to find a puddle of PS fluid on the floor, and further inspection reveals the low pressure outlet/return hose is leaking :mad: . Now to see if I can find one so it can be mobile again... hopefully it is not expensive...

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Went to drive to Crappy Tire to pick up my warranty replaced tire and as I get half way to the end of my road, the Grand starts making a horrible power steering whine :( ... turn around and back home to the garage to find a puddle of PS fluid on the floor, and further inspection reveals the low pressure outlet/return hose is leaking :mad: . Now to see if I can find one so it can be mobile again... hopefully it is not expensive...

If it wasn't so crappy out, I'd say take a drive to Lantz and pull the one off my parts rig. I'm not sure of it's condition though, as I haven't looked at that part of it.

Oh, make sure to grab PS fluid that has the Chrysler spec MS5931. Anything else can cause leaks. Don't ask how I know that. :facepalm:

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If it wasn't so crappy out, I'd say take a drive to Lantz and pull the one off my parts rig. I'm not sure of it's condition though, as I haven't looked at that part of it.

Oh, make sure to grab PS fluid that has the Chrysler spec MS5931. Anything else can cause leaks. Don't ask how I know that. :facepalm:

Guess what I did when it was down some... :facepalm:

I think I only need the rubber hose that comes off the elbow fitting on the steering box to the hard line that comes from the cooler. I may just get some bulk hose an a couple new clamps.

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If it wasn't so crappy out, I'd say take a drive to Lantz and pull the one off my parts rig. I'm not sure of it's condition though, as I haven't looked at that part of it.

I won't worry about that, it's too cold and shitty out to go out and pull it off ;)! Got the Mopar part number and verified it is the one I need by finding a photo of it. Only $36 to order from the Dartmouth Dodge, where I have to get the fluid anyways... Hopefully they can get it in for tomorrow or Wednesday!

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Dropped off at toyota today, brake service, lube n torque driveshafts, checked all fluids, replaced some bulbs, retorque on the uca's and wheel bearing race, checked my failing liftgate lock motor, oil seal on transfer case, i asked about my dim headlights that maybe needing some aiming or bulbs replaced.

Found out a had a seized caliper(pretty common unfortunately), and they said the lock motor was kaput, also the bulbs and aim of the headlights are good apparently but said headlight restoration would be a good idea so im gettin that done too.

Need to make sure i get to Alberta this weekend safe and sound but of course its costing more than i hoped.

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Pretty much all packed and ready to hit the road tomorrow, another 5000 km trip. This will be the 4th time doing this drive, solo too. Second time in the winter but first time with the nokians on.

At least gas is cheap this time.

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